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10% power increase?

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I was once told that I could get a 10% power increase by climbing topless. Is this true? And are there other clothing related hacks? I have a sneaking suspicion that wearing colourful trousers may actually increase your trad grade +1 but I'd need more evidence.

Edit: maybe this should be in the training and walls forum

Post edited at 13:45
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 mrphilipoldham 12 May 2020
In reply to dinodinosaur:

It's 20% outdoors.

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In reply to dinodinosaur:

Beanie adds a V grade. I thought everyone knew that. 

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 ollie_e 12 May 2020
In reply to Longsufferingropeholder:

Thats a common misconception, its beanie AND top off for the extra V grade. 

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In reply to dinodinosaur:

You know the answer

Post edited at 15:11
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 ianstevens 12 May 2020
In reply to ollie_e:

Throw in a power scream to for an extra half.

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 Lankyman 12 May 2020
In reply to dinodinosaur:

Just kick your mate's mat to one side when he's committed and you' ll see a massive leap in his grades. He'll thank you for it later.

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In reply to dinodinosaur:

10% Gainz.

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 gravy 12 May 2020
In reply to Lankyman:

I think the lattice guys studied this and found that it was 14.3% but loosely inversely correlated to % body hair coverage.

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 Lankyman 12 May 2020
In reply to gravy:

> I think the lattice guys studied this and found that it was 14.3% but loosely inversely correlated to % body hair coverage.

I used to find that eating beans for breakfast did wonders for my grades. An increase in the air density around me led to an apparent reduction in my perceived weight. Best for solo boulderers.

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 Baron Weasel 14 May 2020
In reply to Lankyman:

> I used to find that eating beans for breakfast did wonders for my grades. An increase in the air density around me led to an apparent reduction in my perceived weight. Best for solo boulderers.

Add a couple of grades by getting someone to spark up nearby as you count down from 10 to blastoff! 

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 Jack 15 May 2020
In reply to dinodinosaur:

> I was once told that I could get a 10% power increase by climbing topless. Is this true? 

Who knows? It's got me thinking though, what could be the benefits of climbing bottomless?

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 Lankyman 17 May 2020
In reply to Jack:

> Who knows? It's got me thinking though, what could be the benefits of climbing bottomless?


People will notice your helmet and be reminded to put theirs on? A definite win-win situation all round. You are to be commended!

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 timparkin 17 May 2020
In reply to Jack:

> Who knows? It's got me thinking though, what could be the benefits of climbing bottomless?

Good for social distancing... 

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 C Witter 17 May 2020
In reply to dinodinosaur:

It is rumoured to be the case for men; I'm not sure studies have been carried out for women. Possible area for research?

The only catch is, the 10% rule only comes in at E5, F7a or font 7A. Below that, any positive effects are cancelled out, as the heckling tends to detract from concentration.

 

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 olddirtydoggy 17 May 2020
In reply to dinodinosaur:

Lycra leggings with pink power stripe down the sides. I'm sure there's a pic of Andy Pollitt wearing something like that.

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 JLS 17 May 2020
In reply to C Witter:

> It is rumoured to be the case for men; I'm not sure studies have been carried out for women. Possible area for research?

I’m sure Jude Calvert-Toulmin did a study back in the day. Results were non conclusive.

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 jkarran 17 May 2020
In reply to mrphilipoldham:

> It's 20% outdoors.

I never got past 18% except this one time it was snowing and I had just the right hat and my mate's shoes 3 sizes too small. Power of God that day. 

Jk

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 Ciro 17 May 2020
In reply to Jack:

> Who knows? It's got me thinking though, what could be the benefits of climbing bottomless?

It definitely leads to at least a 20% increase in holding power when you think you might fall off on a high DWS, effect on other styles may vary.

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 Andy Gamisou 17 May 2020
In reply to dinodinosaur:

> I was once told that I could get a 10% power increase by climbing topless. Is this true? 

Sure is, why else would people do it?  My observations are that it seems to work best if you combine it with questionable hygiene and an ethical dislike for deodorants.

What I'm going to try, once my lock-down hair is long enough, is to bring back dreadlocks.  This was once recognised as the way to increase power.  So much so that it was banned from the 1990 and 1991 IFSC competition seasons as amounting to artificial aid.  Fortunately good sense prevailed and it was allowed back in for the 1992 season.  Sadly, in the intervening two years, all dreadlock sporting competitors had been shorn of their locks, and they died out from common usage.  About time for a revival says I.

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 peppermill 17 May 2020
In reply to dinodinosaur:

"I'm not naked enough!!" 

Is possibly the best excuse I've heard from a climbing partner for being spat off a route.

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 Lankyman 17 May 2020
In reply to Andy Gamisou:

Ah, dreads. One more item in the hard man's armoury. Going back to the distant past, way before beanies and tops off were invented, we put our faith in chunky red socks. These had to be rolled down to the top of the boot for extra thrust. Power screaming was frowned on. You were allowed a quietly muttered 'Come on arms!' at most to really push the envelope.

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 GrahamD 17 May 2020
In reply to dinodinosaur:

According to the adverts you need to climb in your pants.

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 ElArt 17 May 2020
In reply to dinodinosaur:

This is 100% true all of the time.  

We had a room reset at the Wall (going outdoors ruins my skin and I’m a handmodel) and all the best guys (Derek Zoolander & Crew) came in, took their t-shirts off and started smashing all the problems. This was amazing as Derek is an omnirocker (he can only rock over one way) and all his guys eat loo roll as they say it’s “Pro-Nutrition” and keeps them “Ripped”.
 

This was really unusual as taking tops off isn’t allowed.
 

I was a bit embarrassed (even though I too am ripped (obvs)), but they looked like they really enjoyed it. 
 

Anyway I’m off to work Blue Steel in “le Garage”. Laters. 

Post edited at 14:11
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