UKC

5 10 rockboots

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 dmatth 25 Jan 2023

Looking for an alternative to 5 .10 whites-any recommendations.

Dave

 malx 25 Jan 2023
In reply to dmatth:

The scarpa maestro is the best alternative  i've found so far. Not quite as stiff but edges pretty well. 

The Maestro Mid is meant to be stiffer but I've not tried it yet.

 petegunn 25 Jan 2023
In reply to dmatth:

The Unparallel up lace (blue) is stiffer than the old pink but not as stiff as the white. Great shoe though and fits just like the originals 👍

https://www.unparallelsports.com/product/up-lace/

Post edited at 23:58
 Michael Hood 26 Jan 2023
In reply to petegunn:

That's useful to know and hopefully will still be the same after my latest pinks (pre NIAD) and whites (which need a resole) wear out some time in the future.

Stiffness less of a problem with size 12 feet 😁

 C Witter 26 Jan 2023
In reply to dmatth:

Katana or Kataki Lace, if they fit well. Quite agressive and a bit insensitive initially but soon become great for smearing as well as edging. Circa 2.5 EU sizes down for comfy but precise fit. Better than Blancos in every way?

I don't get on brilliantly with blue UP laces... Compared to the Katanas and the Whites heel doesn't feel right (nowhere near as cupping as on the whites) and toe doesn't feel very precise. Quite good but not great... Whites were top end despite being flat; Blues are intermediate comfy trad shoes IMO.

But, Pete is a much better climber than me and he's recommended them, so... maybe just my impression?

3
 Paul at work 26 Jan 2023
In reply to dmatth:

I would consider a pair of Tenaya Masai, my go to rock shoe for the last 8 years, after I got fed up with the (lack of) build quality of my 5.10s. 

Post edited at 10:08
 petegunn 26 Jan 2023
In reply to C Witter:

Haha thanks ☺️ 

I think the Unparallels just fit my feet really well, I dont get on with sportiva or scarpa as they are slightly big toe oriented, my toes are quite square when bunched up, I get a bit of dead space in scarpa and sportiva in front of my big toe, meaning that I cant stand on small nubbins easily. Strangely I used to fit better in the original boosters and stix before they changed them. 

I've tried a few different models of the Unparallels and they all fit very well.

Tenaya's fit well but most models are a bit soft.

I'm trying to save my last pair of blancos.

 Indignancy 26 Jan 2023
In reply to petegunn:

Everyone says this but as a long time Anasazi fan, aside from the moccs I find the heels on the unparallel versions don’t really work.
They’re very stiff and taller than 5:10s - so don’t feel great on heel hooks because of the gap, and absolute foot murder on multipitch belays because they dig into my Achilles. Have tried to break them down to no avail. Annoying, because I really wanted to like the things…

 petegunn 26 Jan 2023
In reply to Indignancy:

Heel hooks always come up and to be honest I rarely use them, though I'm more a trad climber than boulderer, one problem I was doing where I did actually need one, the baggy bit stuck easily whilst my mate was really struggling in his VSRs and he climbs several grades above me!

The heels on the flagships, Tro lace and Regulus seem to work well out of the ones I've tried.

Like I said, they just fit my feet very well and that's all you're really looking for in any shoe. There may be better shoes on the market but if they dont fit, they dont fit, it doesn't matter how good they are supposed to be.

Post edited at 11:01
 dinodinosaur 02 Feb 2023
In reply to dmatth:

The new offering from Tenaya is stiff and edgy if that's what shape your foot is. A little more aggressive than the Blanco but a brilliant shoe and I can't fault it.

 TobyA 02 Feb 2023
In reply to malx:

> The scarpa maestro is the best alternative  i've found so far. Not quite as stiff but edges pretty well. 

> The Maestro Mid is meant to be stiffer but I've not tried it yet.

I believe Scarpa have stopped making the maestro models now. 

 ianstevens 02 Feb 2023
In reply to Indignancy:

As a long time Anasazi fan you should be used to crappy heels 

2
 UKB Shark 03 Feb 2023
In reply to dmatth:

Are you a size 8? I have lots of pairs with plenty of life left in them - more pairs than I can possibly use. Typically used them for 8-10 sessions on my long term project before moving on to the next pair. 


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