In reply to Sewellymon:
Arnis Strapcans (1957-1980)
Missing in action
Arnis Strapcans (dubbed ‘the human anagram by Ken Wilson on account of his distinctive Latvian name), went out to solo a route in 1980 somewhere on the Brenva flank of Mont Blanc and was never seen again. It was a sudden end to what looked like developing into one of the outstanding mountaineering careers of the 80s. Strapcans was one of the leading climbers in the South West during the mid-1970s and famous as a prominent member of the anti-chalk ‘Clean Hand Gang’ which was vociferous in its opposition to the dastardly Californian cheating powder. His new routes and first free ascents are scattered around the climbing grounds of the Avon Gorge, Swanage, Wintours Leap, Cheddar, Lundy, and Baggy Point. His best known routes are probably
Main Wall Eliminate, Space Oddity, Siberia, Polaris, The Exorcist, Mirage Oasis, and the first free ascent of
Heart of the Sun. Outside of the south-west the Strapcans legacy can be found with new routes on Cloggy and High Tor, Derbyshire.
The sheer enthusiasm indicated by such a spread of activity was all the more remarkable given a terrible experience Srapcans had endured when just beginning his climbing career. When just sixteen Strapcans fell off the last pitch of
Spider’s Web at Gogarth, pulling his second off as three belay pegs ripped from the stance. The pair peeled 100-ft straight into the sea. A fluke wave deposited Strapcans onto a rock platform but he was unable to pull his unconscious companion Robert Brown to safety. He did, however, manage top secure him with the rope still attached to his harness and soloed up the cliffs to get help. Unfortunately he succumbed to a combination of shock, exhaustion and hypothermia and passed out. When he came to the next morning and finally managed to raise help, his friend had been washed out to sea.
In addition to his later British exploits, Strapcans put himself about in Europe regularly, creating new routes in Majorca and at Fairhead in Ireland (e.g.
Wall of Prey). Another indication of Strapcans’ adventurous nature was his third ascent of Aleister Crowley’s totteringly eccentric
Ethelreda’s Pinnacle at Beachy Head, so it comes as no surprise that he became increasingly keen on Scottish winter struggling and mountaineering as well, and was scheduled to join a Himalayan expedition to Kashmir before his untimely disappearance.
What they said: ‘For a while he had the hardest and most dramatic routes at a series of South-West crags. He was arrogant in his way but had a compulsive edge to him’.
Martin Crocker was impressed