Best Adventurous Multipitch routes

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 GStone 23 Dec 2016

I had a list of a few adventurous multi pitch routes on my ticklist, starting with Grooved Arête on Tryfan, Main Wall, Avalanche Wall with Longlands continuation, Tower Ridge (scramble I know), Dream of White Horses, you get the idea! As I gained more experience I moved up the grades and got them done.

Problem is I don't have any left on my list. the above were routes I'd heard were classic routes, big days out.

Can anyone recommend any big mountain routes in the UK with a similar adventurous feel to the above? Not too bothered about the grade, although the feeling of 'what have I let myself in for' is always good!

I suspect I have only just scratched the surface! I need a few new big routes to aim for!


Post edited at 19:41
 Darron 23 Dec 2016
In reply to GStone:

If you have DOWH on your list you might like to add Astral Stroll. It's like mixing 2 parts DOWH with 1 part Vector. Splendid.
Astral Stroll (E1 5b)
 Postmanpat 23 Dec 2016
In reply to Darron:

> If you have DOWH on your list you might like to add Astral Stroll. It's like mixing 2 parts DOWH with 1 part Vector. Splendid.

Bit of a challenge for an HVS leader!
OP GStone 23 Dec 2016
In reply to Darron:

Thanks Darron

Although I said grade doesn't matter, probably looks a bit too serious for me and my usual partner! Something to aspire to!
In reply to GStone:

Black Spring on the Mot is a brilliant route that doesn't get talked about much.
 Postmanpat 23 Dec 2016
In reply to GStone:

Where to start?!

In Ogwen I'd suggest going for the "Idwal Integrale". Lots of variations on this but one here:

Get up to Cloggy and Longlands, Great/Bow, and Curving are a good start.

Kirkus Route in Cwm Silyn is a classic

At Tremadoc Merlin Direct

In the Lakes , several classic VSs on Scafell eg.Botterills, and in Borrowdale Troutdale Pinnacle or on Gimmer things like Asterix and F Route, the Cracks and Kipling.

The list is endless. Get copies of Classic Rock and Hard Rock and that'll keep you going for a few seasons.

In reply to GStone:

Not necessarily "climbing" in the strictest terms, but for pure adventure (and sketch!) you'd be hard pressed to find a better day out than Snakes and Ladders Approach (Old) (HVS) in my opinion. When I went in the summer we spent about 6 hours looking around the old slate quarry - a brilliant day out!
 DerwentDiluted 23 Dec 2016
In reply to GStone:

Though I haven't done it Fionn Buttress (VS 4c) must be a contender.
OP GStone 23 Dec 2016
In reply to ClimbingAlex:

Now that looks good!
OP GStone 23 Dec 2016
In reply to Postmanpat:

Thanks, a few to go at there.

I think I'll have to be visiting cloggy at some point in 2017. Not done any routes there yet.
 Brass Nipples 23 Dec 2016
In reply to GStone:

Darker Angel on Cadair?
 Kevster 23 Dec 2016
In reply to GStone:

Get yourself to lundy, lots at hvs to fill days of fun. I'll mention a few 3 star trade routes. They are 3 star though. And all give an adventure.
Once you find your bearings and have done one or two to get the idea.
Warm up with a day at the slide, albion at vs is good value and not a push over at the grade for some.
American beauty hvs. A resounding climb with a committing 90m ab into it. If the sea is moderate and tides right, you'll feel like the only people in the world on that route.
ulyses factor hvs, if you like a riskier looser but easy challenge.
or maybe a route up the tallest English sea stack, also on lundy. Watch the first pitch on this. Devils chimney.
flying buttress, has a good afternoon of routes too, the hvs up the middle is a good hvs. Sun in the afternoon makes it best this time of day. Look up the photos for psyche.
There are plenty more, if you feel brave indy 500 is a great e1. Thee are many others too though.
last day, aesofetara, and there is another next to it, I forget the name. Hvs and e1. Then run for the ferry!

In reply to GStone:
Westmorlands Route on Dove Crag. A classic HS but do it on a slightly manky day with no one else about and it feels quite a big deal. Especially near the top - exposed! Of course you can say the same about Tophet Wall but that sees a lot more traffic.
 danm 23 Dec 2016
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

Good shout. I think it is rarely done because the crux pitch is usually wet. I did it in the middle of a summer heatwave, it was an exceptional route.

Let's big up the Lakes: Eagle Front in Buttermere or Eliminate A on Dowcat VS. At HVS there's tons. Trespasser Groove on Esk, Centaur on Scafell and any of the classics on Pillar like Megaton, Thanatos, Ximenes, Gaul etc.
 d_b 23 Dec 2016
In reply to GStone:
Pillar Buttress (VD)

Long way in, good climbing, tough for the grade & hardly anyone has ticked it.
Post edited at 21:18
 Mike-W-99 23 Dec 2016
In reply to GStone:

Cumming-Crofton Route (Summer) (S)
Never hard but a long way in.
 The Ivanator 23 Dec 2016
In reply to GStone:

Exposure Explosion (HVS 5a) - magnificent adventure, my partner wrote this blogpost about our Ogmore experience
 Kevster 23 Dec 2016
In reply to GStone:

Ah, gonna say it as an adventure, skeleton ridge. It's not really rock climbing tho. But a it is a grand day out.
 summo 23 Dec 2016
In reply to GStone:
Ivanator, totally agree, Exposure Explosion HVS, Ogmore. on a par with DOWH.
Post edited at 21:49
In reply to GStone:

Fantan B on the Llyn Peninsula is an epic HVS 5a adventure, 85m ab or scramble in. 6 pitches of rock with about the same number of decent pieces of gear and 3 pitches of scrambling. But probably not one to fall off.
 C Witter 23 Dec 2016
In reply to GStone:

I don't have a lot of experience, but from your list it looks like a trip to the Lakes could be in order; and Scotland seems to be the place to go to get long routes in the UK. E.g. what about going to Buachaille Etive Mor? Not been, but I've been drooling over the guide before wrapping it up as a Christmas/birthday gift for someone else. E.g. The Chasm or, on Ben Nevis, Long Climb - both look like mega "adventure" days. Another thing that appeals to me is Arran, which is pretty easy to get to - anything on Cir Mhor looks fantastic; the geology itself is incredibly beautiful.

Just a couple of ideas!
OP GStone 23 Dec 2016
In reply to C Witter:

Wow thanks guys

I knew you'd come up with some good ones!

Looks like my 2017 is sorted.

Exposure explosion keeps cropping up!
 Skyfall 24 Dec 2016
In reply to GStone:

Eliminate A on Dow in the Lakes springs to mind. 6 or so pitches of sustained absorbing trad at around VS. Often voted the best VS in the U.K. Or at least England and Wales

I'd also look at Troutdale Pinnacle Superdirect at HVS on Black Crag, Borrowdale in the Lakes.

So, as someone said, visit the Lakes, preferably when it's dry....
 HeMa 24 Dec 2016
In reply to GStone:

Via Lara, Gone with the Weed and Mot Sola in Haegefjell.

Klubruta on Eidetind.

Sudpillaren on Stetind.

Mygga on Myggapillaren.

Spring to mind quite fast... and about kazillion others littered accross Norway.
 Iain Thow 24 Dec 2016
In reply to GStone:

Surprised nobody's mentioned Centurion or any of the other big Ben routes. Black Mamba or Mousetrap at Creag an Dubh Loch spring to mind too, and when it comes to position for the grade Integrity on Sron na Ciche takes some beating, 300m of climbing if you do a route below to start and do the Direct Finish.
In reply to GStone:

Traverse of the Gods VS/HVS at Swanage with pendulum, scrambling, fall across zawn and swim finale. About 1000ft.
Skeleton Ridge VS/XS? on chalk. 90m ab past knot, walk/wade to start, thrilling exposed climbing ending near cafe/ice cream shop!
Think there is an HVS adventure ticklist on UKC logbook.
 olddirtydoggy 24 Dec 2016
In reply to GStone:

Top of my list for next year is on Arran, South Ridge Direct (VS 5a)
I'm up there for the highland games so a multi just had to happen.
 Dave Williams 24 Dec 2016
In reply to GStone:

A few less obvious suggestions perhaps:

If visiting Clogwyn Du'r Arddu, then Sheaf (HVS 4c) would be a very worthy contender. Outrageous climbing at the grade and on every stance you think 'where the f*ck does it go next?!'

On Dinas Mot, in addition to the excellent Black Spring, there's also The Mole (HVS 5a). P2 is superb; best to finish as for Gollum.

On Craig yr Ysfa there's the classic and very well positioned combo of Mur y Niwl (VS 4c) and Pinnacle Wall (S 4a)

Not to be overlooked, on Llech Ddu there's the superb Central Route/Scar Face Finish (VS 4c)

On Tryfan - and worth considering - there's Munich Climb (HVS 5a)

There's also Kirkus's Route (VS 4c) on Craig Cwm Silyn, which may give you a few route-finding challenges.

To be sure to have a big crag to yourself, there's always the quintessential bank holiday route: Adam Rib (HS 4b)

Also +1 for FANTAN B (HVS 5a) on the Llyn; an outrageous adventure at the grade through some steep rock with good protection where it matters.

Further South:

Rhinog Fach has a multi-pitch gritstone route, grandly situated above what may arguably be the nicest little cwm in Wales: The South Ridge (S)

Darker Angel on Cadair Idris has already been mentioned. It's a fantastic climb but at E2/3, probably one to aspire to for the future. Far more accessible (at the grade) is Obsession (VS 4c)

On Cywarch, and well worth considering, there are the two virtually adjacent lines of Doom (VS 4c) and Acheron (HVS 5a). Both are clean and the latter covers some amazing ground at the grade.

Have fun!

abseil 24 Dec 2016
In reply to GStone:

> ....I think I'll have to be visiting cloggy at some point in 2017. Not done any routes there yet.

Cloggy's fabulous in my book, for the great rock architecture, positions, location, and sense of history. Of course preferably when it's dry / dryish. For what you are asking about, I strongly recommend Curving Crack and Great / Bow combination.
 Trangia 24 Dec 2016
In reply to GStone:

1) Old Man of Stoer with a real adventure of a walk in, a steep descent scramble approach, a swim, a Tyrolean traverse, a multi pitch VS rock climb with a 5a first traverse pitch; a one or two pitch ab (depending on rope length), a Tyrolean traverse off, a steep scramble back up on the landward side, and a walk out.

Pure adventure and variety all the way.

2) Cuillin Ridge Traverse. A day or two of pure adventure. Best expedition in the UK at it's grade (about Diff to Severe)

3) Amphitheatre Buttress. Probably the best multi pitch at t's grade in Wales. V Diff (low in the grade).

4) Bowfell Buttress one of the best multi pitch V. Diffs (high in the grade) in the Lakes.

5) Grooved Arete a brilliant Classic solid mid grade multi pitch V Diff in N Wales

6) Albion a great Lundy multi pitch VS - a lot more satisfying than the nearby Devil's Slide (Severe) which is over rated and over graded.

7) Flying Buttress an enjoyable multi pitch Diff in the Pass with an interesting sting in the tail. The same goes for Milestone Buttress.

8) Scout Crag No 1. A little known very exposed but easy multi pitch V Diff in Langdale with a surprisingly tricky first crack pitch, but with a second pitch which must rank as one of the best in the valley.

9) Finale Groove at Swanage. A sustained two pitch VS which is never difficult but surprisingly tiring

10) Jericho Groove at Swanage. Hard Severe two pitch climb, full of interest, and one of the easiest routes at Boulder Ruckle.
 andrewmc 24 Dec 2016
In reply to GStone:

Great Gully (S)

Adventure! (treat it as VS...)

this is one of my favourite UKC articles:

this ticklist of 'adventure' is a work in progress, and can only be advised against
 JackM92 24 Dec 2016
In reply to GStone:

Admittedly these are all sea cliff routes....but have a more committing feel than mountain routes. And on Heart Of The Sun you'll definetly think "what have I let myself in for?!" on the top pitch!
They're not the longest climbs about, but have a good adventurous feel to them. Partly from the bird shit, loose rock and copious vegetation....!

Seventh Dread (E1 5a, 5b, 5b) - Berry Head

Heart Of The Sun (E2 5c, 5a) - Baggy Point

Diamond Face Route (E1 5a, 5b) - Old Man Of Stoer

The Great Beast (E1 4c, 5b) - Baggy Point. Far better than most of the Rockfax Top50 but sadly overlooked.
 spenser 24 Dec 2016
In reply to GStone:

Isengard (HVS 5b) is a corker, my mates who did Eliminate A on the same day said the best pitches of Eliminate A which you do after Isengard joins it. The 5b pitch eats kit, rests just before all of the hard bits, just be prepared for a little bit of dirt on the 5b pitch as it doesn't get done often.
As already mentioned Eagle Front (VS 4c) is amazing, a friend did the walk in to it 6 times (weather and seepage) and only managed to successfully get on it on the 6th attempt, said it was still worth it and I'd agree!
Bosigran Ridge a.k.a Commando Ridge (VD) is good for a good long easy route, don't bother climbing it on a bank holiday weekend as it gets busy, occasionally with some very strange and slow practices (belaying a novice from in front and behind for all of the traverse pitches).
Little Brown Jug (VS 5a) has a spectacularly positioned crux pitch at the top of the crag, where the crux is depends on your comfort with steep laybacking. Nameless (VS 4c) has an interesting top pitch, really enjoyed climbing that with a mate.
Rake End Wall (VS 4c) is fab, made me realise how good climbing in the Lake District really was.
Bloody Crack (E1 5b) is a little bit out of the way but really good at the grade, it was a friend's first E1, Mellow Yellow at the same crag is also good.
Pirates of Coigach (HS 4a) is mega, plenty of other good stuff up there if you get good conditions, heck of a drive though!
B-Team Buttress (E1 5b) feels pretty out there if the sea is a bit angry in Pembroke (waves were hitting the lower traverse on Triple Overhang Buttress last time I was there, Crickmail was still climbable). Riders on the Storm is mega, Lucky Strike is worth trying as well but be prepared for a spanking at E1, the crux sequence isn't obvious but is very safe (take prusiks!).
The Gordian Knot (VS 4c) was good, the second pitch was a bit thought provoking.
Scratch Arete (HVS 5a) isn't that long but the crux move is fantastic, I did it the same day as Merlin Direct and thought it by far the better of the two routes. Shadrach and Grim Wall Direct are also good to do while you're at the crag.
Superdirect (HVS 5a) is excellent, its sister route on Dinas Mot is another brilliant route albeit a bit run out at the crux.
When you're going well at E1 go and do North West Passage (E1 5b), I'm definitely keen to go back and lead it.
The rock quality on the top 3 pitches of The Long Climb (VS) was pretty awful, the lower pitches didn't really seem that spectacular either, my comment on it in the logbook nicely sums up the experience I think.
That lot should keep you going for a while!
 spenser 24 Dec 2016
In reply to GStone:
A Ticklist of all of the recommended routes, people are more than welcome to suggest more routes, should help provide inspiration for new places to visit!
 stp 24 Dec 2016
In reply to GStone:

Well not a mountain route but definitely adventurous is Stone Bridge at the Devils Cauldron at Pembroke.

Just getting to the start of the first pitch is unique and adventurous and well worth doing sometime even if you don't want to do the route. You have to literally crawl through the middle of the cliff via a strange hollowed out fault line. You finally emerge at fine little belay ledge some 20' above the sea.

I remember thinking this would be a very difficult route to escape from after the first pitch. The route takes a rising traverse line on a natural sea arch. Above it's pretty overhanging and not the most solid of rock either - aside from the first pitch. Below is the sea. If you really needed to escape you could maybe abseil into the sea and swim for it though aside from the swim out I don't think the belays were that great so just the abseil would be pretty risky.

Was given E3 5c in the old guide. This was someone's attempt to translate the Fowler grade of XS 5c (yes, it's a Mick Fowler route) into modern grades. Mick uses the extreme grade as a measure of death potential. HXS means death potential for the whole party. The 5c grade relates to the old sandstone High Rocks grades. Personally I thought the route was more like E5 6b.

If you do it make sure you leave a short fixed rope where the final pitch emerges to pull up the vertical earth section. Fantastic route and unlike anything else I've done at Pembroke.
In reply to GStone:

At a more amenable grade, Toil and Trouble in the Cauldron is a great route in a very cool situation (also a Littlejohn FA tick).

Heart of Darkness and (more adventurously I gather) Journey To Ixtlan are more sideways silliness. Inner Space is sillier still, and utterly brilliant.
 Michael Gordon 25 Dec 2016
In reply to GStone:

Gob, Carnmore Crag
 David Bennett 25 Dec 2016
In reply to GStone:
Has been mentioned above. At hvs lapping carn dearg with Centurian and then Bull Roar is a world class day out.
 John Kelly 26 Dec 2016
In reply to GStone:

Easier and accessible but with adventurous montain feel

Gillercombe Buttress (S 4a)
Corvus (D)
'C' Ordinary Route (Summer) (VD)
OP GStone 27 Dec 2016
In reply to David Bennett:

Sounds good.

Been eyeing up those two for a while now. I remember staring at them from the CIC thinking I wonder when I'll be up to routes like that!

In reply to GStone:

Avernus (HVS 4c) is a very esoteric memorable route. While never particularly hard. Route finding is tricky and very adventurous. Great day out. Then a fun walk down through old quarry buildings.
In reply to John Kelly:

Tophet Wall

Pretty adventurous day out, combined with Napes Needle? - not long but must be quite adventurous given the descent requirements
 peter.herd 27 Dec 2016
In reply to GStone: Sgor a Chleirich, Ben Loyal
 Wayne S 27 Dec 2016
In reply to GStone:

Hi, some good suggestions made so far, some not particularly long but all below have some interest irrespective of grade.

Wreckers' Slab (VS 4b)
Tophet Wall (HS 4b)
Reade's Route (Summer) (S)
Diagonal (HVS 5a)
Kirkus's Route (VS 4c)

Maybe some peak limestone:

Gangue Grooves (HVS 5b)
Cataclysm (HVS 5a)
The Thorn (HVS 5a)
Conclusor (HVS 5a)

Maybe not uber classic but a lot of the good uns have been shouted out already!

 ripper 28 Dec 2016
In reply to Wayne S:

> Maybe some peak limestone:

> Maybe not uber classic but a lot of the good uns have been shouted out already!

> Wayne

If you're talking Peak Limestone surely a top contender must be Aplomb, on Plum Buttress, with that wild traverse pitch! E1 admittedly, but probably more because of the position and general 'WTF-ness' than the difficulty. and it's four pitches long.
 David Coley 28 Dec 2016
In reply to GStone:

At this time of year I'd head south

Wonderland (E1 5c)

Should do the trick
 loose overhang 28 Dec 2016
In reply to GStone:

A few years ago I climbed Sron na Ciche on Skye. We think we did West Central Gully and Arete. It was a grand adventure climb from roughly about the base to the high point of the cliff, about 300m.
 Martin Bagshaw 29 Dec 2016
In reply to GStone:

The Yellow Slab (HVS 4c) is probably the most adventurous I've done at the grade so far, it definitely felt like a hidden line through much harder terrain at the time. About half of the abseil at the end is free hanging too! Great - Bow Combination (HVS 5a) and Sheaf (HVS 4c) pale in comparison.
 Duncan Bourne 29 Dec 2016
In reply to GStone:

Preposterous Tales HVS, Pembroke - three pitches and probably one of the most bizarre climbs around.
Spartan Slab VS, Glen Etive - Big, BIG! slabs with tricky overlaps. Spaced protection and very adventurous. I would have suggested Hammer HVS but try this one first. Oh and if at all humanly possible avoid midge season.
Sirplum E1 5b, Cheedale - Another unlikely but steady (and pumpy) route round the massive overhang
Saxon HVS, Kenijack Cornwall - Fantastic climb, fantastic positions.
Anything on Llywydd - Start early on a clear day
 Offwidth 29 Dec 2016
In reply to Duncan Bourne:

The Chasm must be the ultimate route of this type?
In reply to GStone:

Bludgers Revelation (HVS 5a) has to be one of the most adventurous HVS routes in Glen Coe and should definitetly be on your list. To be honest, if adventurous mountain trad climbing is what your after the Highlands really are the place to go... If they are not already on your list i'd recommend;
The Magic Crack (HVS 5a)
The Needle (E1 5b)
Centurion (HVS 5a)
Direct Nose Route (Summer) (HVS 5a)
The Dagger (Summer) (VS 4c)
Unicorn (Summer) (E1 5a)
 pencilled in 29 Dec 2016
In reply to Samuel Wainwright:

Crow, Cheddar. (Sorry if already mentioned)
 Duncan Bourne 29 Dec 2016
In reply to Offwidth:

Oooo where that?
 Offwidth 29 Dec 2016
In reply to Duncan Bourne:

The Chasm (Summer) (VS)

Something definitely on my to-do ticklist.
 Wayne S 29 Dec 2016
In reply to ripper:

One for my list perhaps, only suggesting routes I have done myself as well as keeping suggestions below E1.
OP GStone 29 Dec 2016
In reply to GStone:

So many routes to choose from. Looks like I'm going to have to start a ticklist and add all of these.
 Tom Valentine 30 Dec 2016
In reply to Kevster:
The biggest adventure on Lundy is The Ocean, but I don't know what state it's in these days.

Otherwise I would like to hear someone report back about Cordelia , Mur Cenihen, North Pembrokeshire. Certainly the biggest adventure I've had on British rock, at any grade.
Post edited at 00:44
 pencilled in 30 Dec 2016
In reply to Tom Valentine:
The Ocean was indeed an adventure, I don't recall any issues with the climbing but it was effectively falling down.

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