I had a list of a few adventurous multi pitch routes on my ticklist, starting with Grooved Arête on Tryfan, Main Wall, Avalanche Wall with Longlands continuation, Tower Ridge (scramble I know), Dream of White Horses, you get the idea! As I gained more experience I moved up the grades and got them done.
Problem is I don't have any left on my list. the above were routes I'd heard were classic routes, big days out.
Can anyone recommend any big mountain routes in the UK with a similar adventurous feel to the above? Not too bothered about the grade, although the feeling of 'what have I let myself in for' is always good!
I suspect I have only just scratched the surface! I need a few new big routes to aim for!
Not necessarily "climbing" in the strictest terms, but for pure adventure (and sketch!) you'd be hard pressed to find a better day out than Snakes and Ladders Approach (Old) (HVS) in my opinion. When I went in the summer we spent about 6 hours looking around the old slate quarry - a brilliant day out!
Get yourself to lundy, lots at hvs to fill days of fun. I'll mention a few 3 star trade routes. They are 3 star though. And all give an adventure.
Once you find your bearings and have done one or two to get the idea.
Warm up with a day at the slide, albion at vs is good value and not a push over at the grade for some.
American beauty hvs. A resounding climb with a committing 90m ab into it. If the sea is moderate and tides right, you'll feel like the only people in the world on that route.
ulyses factor hvs, if you like a riskier looser but easy challenge.
or maybe a route up the tallest English sea stack, also on lundy. Watch the first pitch on this. Devils chimney.
flying buttress, has a good afternoon of routes too, the hvs up the middle is a good hvs. Sun in the afternoon makes it best this time of day. Look up the photos for psyche.
There are plenty more, if you feel brave indy 500 is a great e1. Thee are many others too though.
last day, aesofetara, and there is another next to it, I forget the name. Hvs and e1. Then run for the ferry!
In reply to GStone:
Westmorlands Route on Dove Crag. A classic HS but do it on a slightly manky day with no one else about and it feels quite a big deal. Especially near the top - exposed! Of course you can say the same about Tophet Wall but that sees a lot more traffic.
Good shout. I think it is rarely done because the crux pitch is usually wet. I did it in the middle of a summer heatwave, it was an exceptional route.
Let's big up the Lakes: Eagle Front in Buttermere or Eliminate A on Dowcat VS. At HVS there's tons. Trespasser Groove on Esk, Centaur on Scafell and any of the classics on Pillar like Megaton, Thanatos, Ximenes, Gaul etc.
Fantan B on the Llyn Peninsula is an epic HVS 5a adventure, 85m ab or scramble in. 6 pitches of rock with about the same number of decent pieces of gear and 3 pitches of scrambling. But probably not one to fall off.
I don't have a lot of experience, but from your list it looks like a trip to the Lakes could be in order; and Scotland seems to be the place to go to get long routes in the UK. E.g. what about going to Buachaille Etive Mor? Not been, but I've been drooling over the guide before wrapping it up as a Christmas/birthday gift for someone else. E.g. The Chasm or, on Ben Nevis, Long Climb - both look like mega "adventure" days. Another thing that appeals to me is Arran, which is pretty easy to get to - anything on Cir Mhor looks fantastic; the geology itself is incredibly beautiful.
Surprised nobody's mentioned Centurion or any of the other big Ben routes. Black Mamba or Mousetrap at Creag an Dubh Loch spring to mind too, and when it comes to position for the grade Integrity on Sron na Ciche takes some beating, 300m of climbing if you do a route below to start and do the Direct Finish.
Traverse of the Gods VS/HVS at Swanage with pendulum, scrambling, fall across zawn and swim finale. About 1000ft.
Skeleton Ridge VS/XS? on chalk. 90m ab past knot, walk/wade to start, thrilling exposed climbing ending near cafe/ice cream shop!
Think there is an HVS adventure ticklist on UKC logbook.
> ....I think I'll have to be visiting cloggy at some point in 2017. Not done any routes there yet.
Cloggy's fabulous in my book, for the great rock architecture, positions, location, and sense of history. Of course preferably when it's dry / dryish. For what you are asking about, I strongly recommend Curving Crack and Great / Bow combination.
1) Old Man of Stoer with a real adventure of a walk in, a steep descent scramble approach, a swim, a Tyrolean traverse, a multi pitch VS rock climb with a 5a first traverse pitch; a one or two pitch ab (depending on rope length), a Tyrolean traverse off, a steep scramble back up on the landward side, and a walk out.
Pure adventure and variety all the way.
2) Cuillin Ridge Traverse. A day or two of pure adventure. Best expedition in the UK at it's grade (about Diff to Severe)
3) Amphitheatre Buttress. Probably the best multi pitch at t's grade in Wales. V Diff (low in the grade).
4) Bowfell Buttress one of the best multi pitch V. Diffs (high in the grade) in the Lakes.
5) Grooved Arete a brilliant Classic solid mid grade multi pitch V Diff in N Wales
6) Albion a great Lundy multi pitch VS - a lot more satisfying than the nearby Devil's Slide (Severe) which is over rated and over graded.
7) Flying Buttress an enjoyable multi pitch Diff in the Pass with an interesting sting in the tail. The same goes for Milestone Buttress.
8) Scout Crag No 1. A little known very exposed but easy multi pitch V Diff in Langdale with a surprisingly tricky first crack pitch, but with a second pitch which must rank as one of the best in the valley.
9) Finale Groove at Swanage. A sustained two pitch VS which is never difficult but surprisingly tiring
10) Jericho Groove at Swanage. Hard Severe two pitch climb, full of interest, and one of the easiest routes at Boulder Ruckle.
Admittedly these are all sea cliff routes....but have a more committing feel than mountain routes. And on Heart Of The Sun you'll definetly think "what have I let myself in for?!" on the top pitch!
They're not the longest climbs about, but have a good adventurous feel to them. Partly from the bird shit, loose rock and copious vegetation....!
Seventh Dread (E1 5a, 5b, 5b) - Berry Head
Heart Of The Sun (E2 5c, 5a) - Baggy Point
Diamond Face Route (E1 5a, 5b) - Old Man Of Stoer
The Great Beast (E1 4c, 5b) - Baggy Point. Far better than most of the Rockfax Top50 but sadly overlooked.
Isengard (HVS 5b) is a corker, my mates who did Eliminate A on the same day said the best pitches of Eliminate A which you do after Isengard joins it. The 5b pitch eats kit, rests just before all of the hard bits, just be prepared for a little bit of dirt on the 5b pitch as it doesn't get done often.
As already mentioned Eagle Front (VS 4c) is amazing, a friend did the walk in to it 6 times (weather and seepage) and only managed to successfully get on it on the 6th attempt, said it was still worth it and I'd agree! Bosigran Ridge a.k.a Commando Ridge (VD) is good for a good long easy route, don't bother climbing it on a bank holiday weekend as it gets busy, occasionally with some very strange and slow practices (belaying a novice from in front and behind for all of the traverse pitches). Little Brown Jug (VS 5a) has a spectacularly positioned crux pitch at the top of the crag, where the crux is depends on your comfort with steep laybacking. Nameless (VS 4c) has an interesting top pitch, really enjoyed climbing that with a mate. Rake End Wall (VS 4c) is fab, made me realise how good climbing in the Lake District really was. Bloody Crack (E1 5b) is a little bit out of the way but really good at the grade, it was a friend's first E1, Mellow Yellow at the same crag is also good. Pirates of Coigach (HS 4a) is mega, plenty of other good stuff up there if you get good conditions, heck of a drive though! B-Team Buttress (E1 5b) feels pretty out there if the sea is a bit angry in Pembroke (waves were hitting the lower traverse on Triple Overhang Buttress last time I was there, Crickmail was still climbable). Riders on the Storm is mega, Lucky Strike is worth trying as well but be prepared for a spanking at E1, the crux sequence isn't obvious but is very safe (take prusiks!). The Gordian Knot (VS 4c) was good, the second pitch was a bit thought provoking. Scratch Arete (HVS 5a) isn't that long but the crux move is fantastic, I did it the same day as Merlin Direct and thought it by far the better of the two routes. Shadrach and Grim Wall Direct are also good to do while you're at the crag. Superdirect (HVS 5a) is excellent, its sister route on Dinas Mot is another brilliant route albeit a bit run out at the crux.
When you're going well at E1 go and do North West Passage (E1 5b), I'm definitely keen to go back and lead it.
The rock quality on the top 3 pitches of The Long Climb (VS) was pretty awful, the lower pitches didn't really seem that spectacular either, my comment on it in the logbook nicely sums up the experience I think.
That lot should keep you going for a while!
Well not a mountain route but definitely adventurous is Stone Bridge at the Devils Cauldron at Pembroke.
Just getting to the start of the first pitch is unique and adventurous and well worth doing sometime even if you don't want to do the route. You have to literally crawl through the middle of the cliff via a strange hollowed out fault line. You finally emerge at fine little belay ledge some 20' above the sea.
I remember thinking this would be a very difficult route to escape from after the first pitch. The route takes a rising traverse line on a natural sea arch. Above it's pretty overhanging and not the most solid of rock either - aside from the first pitch. Below is the sea. If you really needed to escape you could maybe abseil into the sea and swim for it though aside from the swim out I don't think the belays were that great so just the abseil would be pretty risky.
Was given E3 5c in the old guide. This was someone's attempt to translate the Fowler grade of XS 5c (yes, it's a Mick Fowler route) into modern grades. Mick uses the extreme grade as a measure of death potential. HXS means death potential for the whole party. The 5c grade relates to the old sandstone High Rocks grades. Personally I thought the route was more like E5 6b.
If you do it make sure you leave a short fixed rope where the final pitch emerges to pull up the vertical earth section. Fantastic route and unlike anything else I've done at Pembroke.
> Maybe not uber classic but a lot of the good uns have been shouted out already!
If you're talking Peak Limestone surely a top contender must be Aplomb, on Plum Buttress, with that wild traverse pitch! E1 admittedly, but probably more because of the position and general 'WTF-ness' than the difficulty. and it's four pitches long.
Preposterous Tales HVS, Pembroke - three pitches and probably one of the most bizarre climbs around.
Spartan Slab VS, Glen Etive - Big, BIG! slabs with tricky overlaps. Spaced protection and very adventurous. I would have suggested Hammer HVS but try this one first. Oh and if at all humanly possible avoid midge season.
Sirplum E1 5b, Cheedale - Another unlikely but steady (and pumpy) route round the massive overhang
Saxon HVS, Kenijack Cornwall - Fantastic climb, fantastic positions.
Anything on Llywydd - Start early on a clear day
Jobs Head Route Setter, The Climbing Hangar - Swansea
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