/ Best multipitch routes in Europe up to 6c max (sport or trad)?

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What is the best multi-pitch route you have done (In Europe, yes that includes the UK!) up to maximum grade of 6c?

It's for an article!
ChrisBrooke 17 Apr 2015
In reply to Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor:

I'm not a great climber, or the best travelled, but here are a few favourites of mine which spring to mind, that I've enjoyed for the climbing, the scenery, or the overall experience, etc.

Salbitschijen South Ridge
Piz Badile Cassin route.
Delicatessen - High Tor
Moskitos - La Visera, Riglos
Riviere Kwai - Alfroide.
1
Chris the Tall 17 Apr 2015
In reply to Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor:

I wish I'd done more multi-pitch stuff over the years, and many of the ones that I've done have been overshadowed by much better (usually too hard) routes in the vicinity (e.g. Diedro UBSA on the Penon), but here's 5 that spring to mind. (Seasoned observers will note that the first is my standard answer to every question about a route on UKC!)

Self Control - Val di Mello (6a+ but more like E3)
Wings of Life - Telendos (6a)
Orea Stithi - Kalymnos (6a+)
SuperDirect - Dinas Mot(E1)
Eliminate A - Dow Crag (VS)
David Coley 17 Apr 2015
In reply to Chris the Tall:

> Seasoned observers will note that the first is my standard answer to every question about a route on UKC!

> Self Control - Val di Mello (6a+ but more like E3)


That's only 'cos I was belaying, and because of the fun we all had getting off in the dark, and the fact that other (famous names not to be mentioned) didn't, and the beer we got just before the bar closed, and the helicopter the next day calling out on it massive loud speaker "Mr Adrian B...... are you OK?"
JCurrie 17 Apr 2015
In reply to Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor:

Aurore Nucleaire on the Pic sans Nom

Jase
Martin Haworth 17 Apr 2015
In reply to Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor:

Torro, E2, Ben Nevis
Madier Route and Visite Obligatoire on Aiguille Dibona, both about 6b.
Ventre a Terre, SW face Aiguille de Sialouze, TD+/6b
Snoopy Direct, Fissure Buttress, Ailefroide, 6b
Just about every route at Gogarth, but I will opt for Mousetrap, Mousetrap Zawn, as a great example.
john arran 17 Apr 2015
In reply to JCurrie:

Les enfants de la dalle on the Dent d-Orlu has got to be up among the best - certainly higher quality than anything I've done in the Dollies, though I confess I haven't done a lot of multi-pitch in most of the rest of Europe. Also probably something on the Grand Capucin if there's one that squeezes under the grade limit?.
HeMa 17 Apr 2015
In reply to Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor:
Swiss route on Gran Cap, or rather the more logical Swiss to O Sole Mio ending (avoiding the aid roof and following a locigal crack all the way).

Voyage selon Gulliver on Cap might also be on the list, but I think it's 7a free.

Vest pillar on Presten in Lofoten is rather nice as well.
Post edited at 13:18
RKernan 17 Apr 2015
In reply to Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor:
Cúchulainn (E2) at Fair Head. 3 different, an amazing pitches. Corner jamming in first pitch, steep crack climbing with overhangs in second, Offwidth exit and glorious handjams on the third!
Post edited at 13:34
Chris the Tall 17 Apr 2015
In reply to David Coley:

It does tend to dominate my memory of that week, but thinking back we did some other excellent routes, such as Kundalini or the really accessible ones on El Schenun. Not so sure about that one with the 6 foot snake living under the belay ledge...

Anyway, you're the multipitch guru, lets hear you top 5 (or 10, or 20 !)
Skyfall 17 Apr 2015
In reply to Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor:

A few that stand out....

The Direct on Miroir d'Argentine (the traditional start up the big chimney around to the RHS - which is really more like 5+ not 5). Quite an outing, with a normally wet and reasonably deparate letterbox pitch half way up the chimney, a stiff pull through an overlap, and an easy romp up the slabs to a fantastic ridge finish. Sparse bolting through the chimney sections make it feel at least VS.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=112239

Either Motorhead or Septumania at Eldorado in Grimsel. About 16 pitches, both about 6a+++ and, due to some scary bolting (bolted on the lead), feel at least E2. Amazing granite slab climbing.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=2113

There's some fantastic climbing at Ailefroide e.g. Snoopy, La Cocarde etc but nothing quite as good imho.

In the UK, whilst some of the classics routes on Dinas Mot are great for exanple, I do think that Tremadog can compete with almost any crag in terms of quality of routes. Take your pick of 3 star classics almost.
The Grist 17 Apr 2015
In reply to Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor:

The three that really stand out for me are:

Luna Nascente, Val Di mello
Voie ULA, La Verdon
White Slab, Cloggy
John2 17 Apr 2015
In reply to The Grist:

Similar to you White Slab, Reve de Fer (Verdon) and Burn Up (Fairhead).
sgl 17 Apr 2015
In reply to Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor:
Another vote for Luna Nascente (with Kundalini to start is a cracking day out, 18 or so pitches of fantastic granite with almost no walk in).
Dos d'elephant - Bavella, Corsica. 6b
Salbit - West Ridge, Switzerland. 6b
Spigolo Vinci, Piz Cengalo, Italy VI
Bludger's Revelation, Glen Coe
Post edited at 14:16
SGD 17 Apr 2015
In reply to Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor:

Bare Blåbær - Djupfjord, Lofoten,
The Desolation of Smaug! - Twll Mawr
Wild Country - Telendos
White Slab - Cloggy
neuromancer 17 Apr 2015
In reply to Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor:

A little cheeky, but Costa Blanca on the Penon de Ifach comes close.

The only pitch that is 6c+ is overgraded, as I climbed it first by accident when my best onsight grade was 6b+. It's jug hauling on the most incredible overhanging terrain - a bit like Rock Idol, except 200ft above a crashing spanish sea.
planetmarshall 17 Apr 2015
In reply to Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor:

Probably The Needle (E1 5b)
earlsdonwhu 17 Apr 2015
In reply to Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor:

Sound of Silence in Sardinia always seems to get rave reviews.
Robert Durran 17 Apr 2015
In reply to Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor:
> What is the best multi-pitch route you have done (In Europe, yes that includes the UK!) up to maximum grade of 6c?

I assumed from this that you were only asking for bolted routes. Most people seem to be coming up with trad routes (read into that what you will.......), but comparing trad (including big alpine and 2 pitch UK routes) with fully sport sport seems far too broad for any meaningful comparison. Anyway, 6c trad is going to be way harder than 6c sport so you are would be allowing only relatively easy sport. What did you mean?
Post edited at 15:18
Chris Perry 17 Apr 2015
In reply to Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor:

Super Massive Black Hole, Twll Mawr (basically 6c+).

Costa Blanca Calpe (6c+/6b)
DavidR 17 Apr 2015
In reply to Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor:

Good question. Lots for me, but two that stand out (specifically because they were on amazing bits of rock, as well as being great climbing, are:

Visite Obligatoire on the Aiguille Dibona in the Hautes Alpes (TD+)

and

Sole Incantatore on Cala Goloritze in Sardinia (F6c).
Bruise Apprentice 17 Apr 2015
In reply to Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor:

Estrella Polar, at Frontales Medias, El Chorro (F6b)

Easy Gymnopedie, the easiest way up the Agulia di Goloritze in Sardinia (F6c)

Prelude-Nightmare, Glendalough, Ireland (VS 4c)

Central Route/Scar Face finish, Llech Ddu, Wales (HVS 4c in the Ground Up guidebook)
Robert Durran 17 Apr 2015
In reply to DavidR:

> Sole Incantatore on Cala Goloritze in Sardinia (F6c).

If we are talking sport routes, this would be right up there among the ones I have done.

Sette Anni di Solitudine o the nearby Punta Giradilli must, by all accounts, be a contender (been on my hitlist for years.......). Anyone done it?

Alasdair Fulton 17 Apr 2015
In reply to Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor:

O Sole Mio, Grand Cap
Cache Cache, Pointe Adolphe Rey

Himmelen Kan Vente - like Westpillaren but better.

Vinatzer/Messner on the South Face of Marmolada

Andy Moles 17 Apr 2015
In reply to Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor:

A couple that stood out for me, which are not very famous and were all the more enjoyable for not coming with a weight of expectation:

No match for climb id:196435 - steep and sustained for the grade, and a wee bit traddy too.
Ras lebolchoi (6c) - even better than many of the older established classics in the Verdon.
Robert Durran 17 Apr 2015
In reply to Fultonius:

> Himmelen Kan Vente - like Westpillaren but better.

Vestpillaren, great though it is, is seriously flawed by sidling off into the grotty gully finish. Any alternative is going to be better. I wonder whether there is a consensus on an optimized combination of pitches (Starting up Vestpilaren (direct), finishing up Himmelen Kan Vente at some point?)
Smelly Fox 17 Apr 2015
In reply to Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor:

UE-I on Pabbay
Centurion on Ben Nevis
Goliath on Creag an Dubh Loch
Pinch Direct on Etive Slabs
LMF at Creag Dubh
Jack the Ripper on Stac Pollaidh
Original Route on the Old Man of Hoy

Zeppelin in El Chorro (6c/+)
Saluard Route on Pic Adolphe Ray
Effetti Collaterali Vertigini on Monte Procinto

The venues at least should provide some inspiration, as I'm certain there are better routes at each.

Good luck with the article, sounds like it should be good.
ChrisBrooke 17 Apr 2015
In reply to Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor:
I assume you have a copy of 'Parois de Legende.' I've done a few of them, but it pretty much comprises my lifetime wishlist. I just wish I could read better French
Post edited at 17:30
The Ex-Engineer 17 Apr 2015
In reply to Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor:
Only two stand out head and shoulders above others:

East Face Route (Original Route) (E1 5b) (Old Man of Hoy)

The American Direct (ED1)
Post edited at 18:34
Rick Graham 17 Apr 2015
In reply to Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor:

No problems with the routes suggested so far.

Could maybe subdivide into long, short,sport and trad/partly bolted and alpine.

Some of the long routes at the Penon right of Costa Blanca could be slightly better for some folk, Navegante, Gomez Cano or Revelacion. Neil might be along soon with his favourite.

For length (700m ! ) what about Alhambra near Locarno in SE Switzerland ? Only a few minutes from the car.
In reply to Everyone:

Thanks for all the replies so far.

Some great routes there! So many good routes to do - I need 10 more lives.

Cheers,

Jack
Alasdair Fulton 17 Apr 2015
In reply to Robert Durran:

> Vestpillaren, great though it is, is seriously flawed by sidling off into the grotty gully finish. Any alternative is going to be better. I wonder whether there is a consensus on an optimized combination of pitches (Starting up Vestpilaren (direct), finishing up Himmelen Kan Vente at some point?)

I think that a combo route up there could definitely be better than the sum of its parts.
Tyler 17 Apr 2015
In reply to Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor:

The first two are bit left field but worth a recommendation for anyone reading.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=164011

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=168069

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=54968
JJL 17 Apr 2015
In reply to Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor:

Oh my! What a question.

Sport:
- La Demande, Verdon (better than Ula)
- Traumpfeiler, Meteora
- Enfants de la dalle, Dent d'Orlu

Trad:
- Nordekante, Piz Badile
- Sudgrat, Salbit (West ridge is better but harder)
- Something on Naranjo de Bulnes
- Dibona as earlier poster
- Vajolet towers in the Dollies
- DOWH or Mousetrap
MischaHY 17 Apr 2015
In reply to Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor:

Zeppelin, El Chorro. The best day I've had on multi pitch, no questions. Super exposed over the gorge, with two 6c pitches. I could happily provide epic pictures!
TobyA 17 Apr 2015
In reply to Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor:

Sydpilaren (n6-)

Go on, you know you want to. http://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/item.html?crag=4024&sort=v
AlanLittle 18 Apr 2015
In reply to The Ex-Engineer:


Once upon a time, but how much of it still exists?

DDDD 18 Apr 2015
In reply to Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor:

There are any number of really good multipitch bolted limestone routes in the Gorge de la Jonte - you could probably pick quite a few.

As above, both Eldorado and Handegg in Switzerland give really good granite slab multipitch.
Mark Bannan 18 Apr 2015
In reply to Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor:
I've almost exclusively shunned rock climbing abroad in favour of classic mountaineering (of low technical difficulty), so my choices are entirely from the UK:

Vulcan Wall
Trophy Crack
The Needle
Centurion
Bludger's Revelation

Glad to see how popular most of these are here!

M
Post edited at 10:00
David Barlow 18 Apr 2015
In reply to Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor:

West Ridge Salbitschijen http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=101018
Another vote for Motorhead at El Dorado.
The American Direct+West Face of the Dru if any of it still exists.

And a few more unusual suggestions:
Underneath the Arches, Pembroke http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=110800
Skeleton Ridge, Isle of Wight http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=38248
A bit short really: Widespread Ocean of Fear, Lundy http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=34465
Any route on Dun Mingulay http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=10284
Jonas Wiklund 18 Apr 2015
In reply to Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor:

Some of my favourites. Apologies for the Ibero-Norwegian bias. I'm sure the best routes are found in Verdon. Or the alps. Or on the Mediterranean islands.

Sud-Est Direct (ED1) (450m, ED-, 6c>6b) On Pic du Midi d'Osseau (trad, some pitons). At times quite adventurous climbing high up in the Pyrenees. Wonderful mountain environment, very sustained over 14 pitches. Nothing really below 6a.
Alberto Rabadá o Murciana (6c) (290m, TD, 6c>6a) in Riglos, on El Pison. (Though the crux pitch is >7a imho). (Sport, small rack helpful on first pitch). Most exposed 6a pitches I ever done. Found the 6c pitch ridiculously hard though, (maybe it was the sun?) Apart from the first pitch, excellent climbing through.
Vestveggen (n6+)/Vesteggen (n6) combo on Stetind (600m, TD+, 6b+>5b) (trad). A long route with some pieces of tricky route-finding on Vesteggen. Uniformly good climbing, but not terribly sustained.
Den Franske Pillaren (n6+)/The Next Best Thing (n6+) (trad, probably more or less the same route) (300m, TD, 6b>5c). Amazing rock in an amazing setting. Better than almost everything else in Lofoten (and I've climbed way too many of the routes there.)
Korstoget / Reisen (n7) (400m, TD+, 6c+>6b), but finish as “Himmlen kan vänta” to keep it within the 6c threshold) Second best route on the wall. I'm sure enough people will mention the best route on the wall...
Rabada-Navarro (TD) (750m TD+, 6c+>6b, trad with plenty of bolts/threads) Another one that doesn't quite manage the 6c cut, but the 6c+ part is one-and-a half move protected by a shiny bolt and easily frigged.) Major route on a major wall. Very good limestone all the way.
Ikaros (n7-) (300m, 6c>6a, trad). A really excellent crack climb on superb rock, mostly around 6a/b, with a spectacular 6c pitch of excellent crack climbing high up. The perfect stepping stone to Thanatos (n7+)
nniff 18 Apr 2015
In reply to Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor:

Septumania, Handegg.. Didn't have the weather for Boulder Highway. Utterly brilliant
In reply to Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor:

Shibboleth.

jcm
The Ex-Engineer 18 Apr 2015
In reply to AlanLittle:
> Once upon a time, but how much of it still exists?

It was the classic route of the Bonatti Pillar (and others) that fell down. The American Direct is still climbable and all the best pitches up to and including the 90m diedre were unaffected.
Just Another Dave 19 Apr 2015
In reply to Jonas Wiklund:
Impressive choices, Jonas! Yours is a worthwhile tick list in itself.

From my paltry experience, two stand out after which I didn't stop grinning for days:

Cade, Paret de les Bagasses, Terradets, Sierra de Montsec. (6a I thought, but given V 5a in the logbooks)

Ravier, Tozal del Mallo, Ordesa. MD+ or E1 5b-ish or 6a+ish.

Both awesome inspiring lines at amenable grades through the unlikeliest territory.

Oh, and boringly predictably, La Demande, Verdon.

And there was something amazing at 6a/6a+, 4 or 5 pitches on a sea cliff on the South West corner of Sardinia away from crowds that stands out, but I can't recall the name or crag or find any trace of it anywhere...
Post edited at 07:39
Trangia 19 Apr 2015
In reply to Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor:

Sa Gubia Normal (VS) - Corsica

Espero Sur Central, Pui Campana (Severe)- Costa Blanca

Ordinary Route, South Face (VS) Naranjo de Bulness - Picos de Europa

Cuillin Ridge (Severe) - Skye

Bowfell Buttress (Diff/V Diff)) - Lake District



Misha 19 Apr 2015
In reply to Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor:
That's an impossible shortlist! Couple of suggestions:

Rebuffat on the South face of the Midi

Old Man of Hoy Original Route, more for what it is than the climbing itself

Some stuff in the Verdon?

Something on a British sea cliff. Prophesy of Drowning on Pabbay is the big classic but I thought Sula on Dun Mingulay was better. Or may be a Gogarth classic like T Rex, The Moon or Dream of White Horses. Dreadnought on Berry Head (didn't tate Moonraker that much though). Dream Liberator in Bosigran Great Zawn, the crevasse jump / climb across start alone is a unique experience. Devil's Slide on Lundy at an easier grade. I do like sea cliffs!

alpinist63 19 Apr 2015
In reply to Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor:

hard question..let's try:
rebuffat on aig. du midi
eperon sublime in verdon (and many others...)
motorhead on eldorado dome switzerland
west ridge of salbitschijen
north face messner route 2nd sella tower (trad) and delando carthago south face 1st sella tower (sport)dolomites
routes in the the Hochkönig massif in austria like gloria patri etc...
west Dülfer Totenkirchl in the Wilder Kaiser
and a place not to miss: Paklenica. Routes: most ,but my favourite would be a comination of Watersong on veliki cuk followed by Pero, Svicarski or domzalski on Stup and continiuing to the top of anica kuk , giving +/- 500m of outstanding limestone climbing ( this route alone is worth the trip to croatia)


shantaram 19 Apr 2015
In reply to Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor:

Tough to narrow it down, but here are a few that have stood out for me:

Dos d'Elephant - Bavella, Corsica

Symphonie d'Automne - Restonica, Corsica

Visite Obligatoire - Aiguille Dibona, Ecrins

Ventre a Terre - Aiguille de Sialouze, Ecrins

Sula - Mingulay

Ula - Verdon Gorge
PATTISON Bill 19 Apr 2015
In reply to Trangia:

When did they move Sa Gubia to Corsica? .Whoops .
Jonas Wiklund 19 Apr 2015
In reply to Just Another Dave:

Thanks,

I see that you've been to Ordesa. Haven't been there myself, but was thinking of going there for a couple of days this autumn. I was looking at the suggestions in PdL (a link-up of Las Brujas and the French-Spanish route and RACS). Any general piece of advice?
Trangia 19 Apr 2015
In reply to PATTISON Bill:

I always struggle with the spelling of Majorca

Fergal 19 Apr 2015
In reply to Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor:

Suprised this route hasn't been mentioned, good enjoyed it, http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=63566
tjekel 19 Apr 2015
In reply to Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor:

A few classics as suggestions not mentioned so far:

2 times Niedermann (Bielenhorn, Graue Wand)
Close to everything at Sanetsch
Dachl/Gesäuse north face, north west face (13 and 20 pitches respectively)
Anica Kuk, Klin



astley007 19 Apr 2015
In reply to Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor:
Pichnible..verdon....aiding the the 7b+ pitch..just a fantastic position
Motorhead...El Dorado....great route
Wings on telendos as a great day out..as a sport climbers mountaineering day
and just to hijack the thread
Dream of Wild Turkeys..Red Rocks...which is West Europe!!!!!!
Cheers

joeldering 19 Apr 2015
In reply to Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor:

A couple from El Chorro:

Amptrax (6a) (180m, 6a) - widely accessible, great quality sport climbing in a great location
Zeppelin (6c+) (300m, 6c+) - slightly outside the remit in terms of difficulty, abseil down down into the gorge and climb out through superb & varied climbing
The Ex-Engineer 20 Apr 2015
In reply to astley007:
> Dream of Wild Turkeys..Red Rocks

Interesting suggestion. I've only done Prince of Darkness in the canyon (excellent but perhaps not world beating) but I'd have thought Epinephrine would have been stand out choice.

I was going to try and sneak the Steck Salathe (utterly, utterly brilliant) into the thread but thought that would be a bit off topic.

astley007 20 Apr 2015
In reply to The Ex-Engineer:

Having done both, was hard choice, but had to pick DOWT, just enjoyed that route a little more.
Not done Steck Salathe, but will put it my list!!!
Do you think if we gave these routes French Grades we could sneak them in?
Cheers
edinburgh_man 20 Apr 2015
In reply to Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor:

The Rostrum, Yosemite
Voyager, Fifi Buttress, Yosemite

Why people say the Needle when Steeple is miles better is beyond me.
Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator20 Apr 2015
In reply to The Ex-Engineer:



> I was going to try and sneak the Steck Salathe (utterly, utterly brilliant) into the thread but thought that would be a bit off topic.

I thought it was gross - hundreds of feet of tight ugly chimneys - yeuk!


Chris
The Ivanator 20 Apr 2015
In reply to Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor:
Just did La Ley Del Deseo, Sa Gubia, Mallorca the other day and thought that was a fantastic route at its grade (tough F5+). Sustained and excellent climbing on every pitch (well, one welcome easier pitch out of 6) and great quality rock, topped off with an airy ridge scramble to the summit. Also did Albahida (Gubia Normal), but the bolted line taken by La Ley Del Deseo is far superior IMO.
Better than anything I've done in the UK or elsewhere in Europe (I've dabbled in Dolomite, Swiss and Costa Blancan multipitch for comparison).
Is this article headed for UKC? Sounds interesting, I'm keen to identify some quality F6a ish bolted Multipitch for future European Trips.
Post edited at 15:21
Robin Mazinke 20 Apr 2015
In reply to Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor:

I guess you've probably already looked at this thread http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=607340#x7973821 but the majority of the routes in that list are European and F6c or less.

One more I'd add to the list is Punsola-Reniu on Cavall Bernat in Montserrat, I saw both F6c and F6c+ quoted for the main pitch but suspect it was probably F6c.

Robin
Toerag 21 Apr 2015
In reply to earlsdonwhu:

> Sound of Silence in Sardinia always seems to get rave reviews.

I did it a couple of years ago - it really is very good.

Another submission - Moonraker @Berry Head
Toerag 21 Apr 2015
In reply to Just Another Dave:

> And there was something amazing at 6a/6a+, 4 or 5 pitches on a sea cliff on the South West corner of Sardinia away from crowds that stands out, but I can't recall the name or crag or find any trace of it anywhere...

The crag was almost certainly Masua if it was right above the sea opposite an amazing stack and beyond a mine.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=15895
David Coley 21 Apr 2015
In reply to Chris the Tall:

> Anyway, you're the multipitch guru, lets hear you top 5 (or 10, or 20 !)

Well, the top 1 would have to be Wonderland at Swanage! However Jack's article would have to wait until August so we can climb the final, 70th, pitch as birds are nesting on it at the moment.

Just Another Dave 23 Apr 2015
In reply to Toerag:

> The crag was almost certainly Masua if it was right above the sea opposite an amazing stack and beyond a mine.


It was! Thanks. If only I could find the guidebook, or if the database was complete...

The route involved abbing to near the waterline and traversing left to the start, then weaving up an impressive bulging headwall of smooth limestone with reachy moves between big juggy pockets.

And that stack is Pan di Zucchero (sugarloaf), which must have some incredible routes on it. Wish we could have organised a boat out, but the sea was unkind.
Just Another Dave 23 Apr 2015
In reply to Jonas Wiklund:

> Thanks,

> I see that you've been to Ordesa. Haven't been there myself, but was thinking of going there for a couple of days this autumn. I was looking at the suggestions in PdL (a link-up of Las Brujas and the French-Spanish route and RACS). Any general piece of advice?

Unfortunately, Ravier was the only route we got the chance to do there (passing through on a trip from Riglos towards Barcelona), so no more suggestions sorry, but the place is beautiful and inspiring and full of gob-smacking lines. Camping in the valley itself is not allowed (or wasn't then) so we had to start and finish with a very long walk, making it a very long day. Don't know if there's any way round that. Have to go back someday.
Karl Bromelow 23 Apr 2015
In reply to Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor:
How about Sole Incantatore (6c) on Aguglia di Goloritze, Sardinia?
Aah I see it already mentioned. Great climb.
Post edited at 05:51
Toerag 23 Apr 2015
In reply to Just Another Dave:

Is it one of these?
http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=40650

I might be nice and look in my guidebook (Pietra Di Luna) to find it for you - keep checking back!
mark20 24 Apr 2015
In reply to Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor:

Lord of the Rings, Scafell
The girdle traverse of Horseshoe Quarry
TimB 24 Apr 2015
In reply to Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor:

People have already mentioned these : Rébuffat-Baquet (TD+ 6a) Le Ticket, le Carré, le Rond et la Lune (TD+ 6b)

But I'd add this too : La Carmina (6b) Not the world's best climbing lower down, but the overall experience is great
In reply to Everyone:
Wow - what a great response.

I have a short list of 10 now for the article - what do you think?! The only one I would be keen to swap out is La Demande actually. Any other Verdon offerings? I think the Verdon needs to be in there.

I don't know anything about Paklenica really, which is actually one of the main reasons I want to include it! But does anyone else know more?

I'll get some details together of all these routes and make the article (and ticklist) with info on the routes, how to get there, when to go etc.

Maybe I will get to do them all - I think that would be a good use of UKC time and money, surely I have to check them out - right?!

ROUTES:

West Ridge of Salbitschen

Classic route on the Dibonna

La Lune - Chamonix

Motorhead - Eldorado

Oceano Irrazionale - Val di Mello

Direct Route - Naranjo de Bulnes South Face

La Demande - Verdon Gorge

Kvaloya - Norway

Jack the Ripper - Stac Pollaidh

Anica kuk? - Paklenica
Post edited at 12:16
Heike 24 Apr 2015
In reply to Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor:
Hi Jack, I agree with many of them (West Ridge, one of my most favourite routes ever), but Jack the Ripper? Really. It's very nice, but surely there are better multi pitch even in the UK. How about Torro or Steeple or Haystack or routes one Scafell, like Saxon or Nazgul or Yellow Slab? Same goes for the Dibonna, classic route, yes, quite nice but there are way more super routes around, for example the North-West ridge on the Piz Cengalo in the Bregaglia.

I would add Tofana di Rozes, Pilastro VII- to it, superb climb, absolutely top notch.
And Fleischbank, Süd-Ostverschneidung, an absolutely superb climb in the Wilder Kaiser, Austria. I think there is a picture in my Photos.

have climbed in Paklenica which is great. I'd offer Velebetaski, 6a+ on that one, but to be honest, I had more memorable routes elsewhere. La Demande was one of them, although that might have been as I was six months pregnant then.

I absolutely loved also Another Day in Paradise, on Piz Badile. And what about Costa Blanca on the Penon d'Ifach?
There are so many others that were ace, but Jack, the Ripper, despite being a nice route really doesn't compete, I'd think.


Post edited at 12:40
Zgemba 24 Apr 2015
In reply to Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor:

I think Klin (6c+) is a must for Paklenica. The 6c+ traverse is only about three moves long and can be easily aided (in-situ slings). Alternatively, you can also climb straight up and slightly to the right (overhang) and avoid the crux traverse altogether. This version is graded 6c, so within your grade bracket.
Above the crux it only gets better with great exposure and superb but pumpy climbing on good holds.
In reply to Zgemba:

Thanks!

Jack
David Coley 24 Apr 2015
In reply to Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor:

Val di Mello. I've not done Oceano, but I would have thought the Luna Nascente/Kundalini link would be the way to go. 19 pitches?

Heike 24 Apr 2015
In reply to David Coley:
That's another good one. I loved these routes, although I did them individually.

I haven't done Oceano, but my husband and pal did it last year and said it was good, but a bit involved, including the descent, vertical grass and all that.
Post edited at 16:09
The Ivanator 24 Apr 2015
In reply to Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor:

How about 2 articles - one for the best up to 6a+ (basically Rockfax Orange spot) and one for those up to 7a (Red Spot zone) there would then have something for most climbers and it would allow a few more of the slightly lower grade gems in ...thinking things like Peppermint (6a)(Ariege), The Sound of Silence (5c)(Sardinia), Parle (6a+) (Costa Blanca), La ley del deseo (5c)(Mallorca). Plus if you are going to go out and climb them all it'll be twice as much entertainment.
Robert Durran 24 Apr 2015
In reply to The Ivanator:

> How about 2 articles - one for the best up to 6a+ (basically Rockfax Orange spot) and one for those up to 7a (Red Spot zone) there would then have something for most climbers and it would allow a few more of the slightly lower grade gems in ...

Sounds like material form a whole series of articles to me! Mixing sport and trad seems a bit daft, especially since 6c trad could be anything up to about E5 whereas 6c sport is, well, only 6c sport (ie miles easier!).
Rick Graham 24 Apr 2015
In reply to Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor:
> West Ridge of Salbitschen

A v good route , but spoilt by being relatively easy to escape off to the right or left, the Cassin on the Badile or South ridge Aiguille Noire would be better as an alpine rock challenge. Both take natural inescapable lines with the easiest descent by a different route rather than just abbing off.

> Classic route on the Dibonna,

not done it

> La Lune - Chamonix

If you mean Le Ticket, as good a choice as any.

> Motorhead - Eldorado

Very good but is Septumania better ? It has better runouts at least

> Oceano Irrazionale - Val di Mello

Very good, a real adventure, enhanced by the approach and descent.

> Direct Route - Naranjo de Bulnes South Face

n d i

> La Demande - Verdon Gorge

Good enough but I would vote for ULA

> Kvaloya - Norway

> Jack the Ripper - Stac Pollaidh

The weakest selection , surely Torro or Steeple or Kingpin or Shibboleth

> Anica kuk? - Paklenica

Surely something in the Dolomites?
I also forgot about that long crack climb near the Grau Wand, Conquest.
Post edited at 19:54
ERU 24 Apr 2015
In reply to Skyfall:
> Either Motorhead or Septumania at Eldorado in Grimsel. About 16 pitches, both about 6a+++ and, due to some scary bolting (bolted on the lead), feel at least E2. Amazing granite slab climbing.


I'd say anything on this crag! 'Forces Motrices' is really good - try to stay away from Motorhead or Septumania. It's all good and the other routes feel a bit more on the fringe.

Stuff at Lofoten is also a good bet.
TobyA 24 Apr 2015
In reply to Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor:

> Kvaloya - Norway

Kvaløya isn't a route, it's a bloody great island covered in mountains! It has long multipitch mountain routes, aid climbs on the mini-big wall, sport climbing and even extensive bouldering.

The famous routes are mainly on the wall called Baugen http://www.blixt.no/KvaloyaArchives/hollenderan/baugen/baugenRoutes.shtml Thanatos is clearly the King Line http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=120938 http://www.alpinepassion.com/2014/08/thanatos-my-yet-greatest-free-climb.html
Jonas Wiklund 24 Apr 2015
In reply to TobyA:

I would argue that the most famous routes are on Blamannen, but there's nothing below 7b there.

In my opinion “Flygande Hollendaren” with the “Ikaros” finish is the best route up to 6c on Baugen. (Though Tanathos is the best route on the Wall. Possibly with the Kairos finish (which I haven't done)
tjekel 25 Apr 2015
In reply to Zgemba:

I'd rate Klin higher than Velebitaski on Anica Kuk - better line, better climbing, more exposure. Not to detract from velebitaski - would be a top choice almost anywhere else.

cat22 25 Apr 2015
In reply to Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor:

Jack the Ripper wouldn't get my vote - I'd go for Steeple instead, definitely a world-class route!

Also, surely there's room on the list for Vestpillaren!
AJM 25 Apr 2015
In reply to ERU:

thise eldorado routes have been rebolted since the FA and the number of bolts increased. I can't remember where (Parois?) but I'm sure I've read somewhere that Motörhead was only opened with pegs or with a vanishingly small number of bolts.

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