UKC

For some reason, I've been looking at some esoteric places one can climb in Britain. My search took me to Isle of Man to see what there is. Something to climb to say the least; quality later. However, reading Mike Caine's dated online guide, I found this route called Task Force graded at E2 4c. It must be a chop (death) route, mustn't it? Climbing for almost 15 years, never seen this grade before; E1 4c, yes. E2 4c must be dire. Check http://www.mike-caine.com/rock-climbing-in-the-isle-of-man/maughold-head/

Have you come across any bizzare grades in your travel? Like HVD 5b in Stanage type things. Anybody knows any routes like E5 4c?

In reply to Skinny Kin: The only real reason I can think for it getting a grade like is because a lot of the rock over here is very loose and friable in places, so I assume it involves not to hard climbing but totally rubbish gear because of the state of the rock. I'll see if it mentions any further details of the climb in earlier versions of the guide, or I may have to go check it out! An X grade may have been more appropriate though.

In reply to Skinny Kin:

There was a route in Mousetrap zawn that used to get E5 5b

In reply to Skinny Kin:

The climbing on the Island is good (though a little esoteric as you've identified). Maughold head is even by Manx standards, rubbish, I've been once and I went home with a seagull shit on my head and a big flapper on my shoulder from the block I ripped out before decking (then getting shat on). Maughold makes Mousetrap Zawn look like a kiddies climbing frame.

Drop me an email and I can put you in touch with some very enthusiastic and good locals who can show you the hidden gems.

If you'd like to do it alone then I an point you at the areas though you'll need your adventure head on to find some of them. There's a pile of good new routes in the E2-E7 range and a few easier ones.

Check with Manx National Heritage for bird bans on the Chasms (best cragging, all grades), the nearby Kione Y Gogghan is good for seaside cragging in the HS-HVS range. Sugarloaf is a fun easy stack, more a logistical exercise but cool anyway. Groudle is good (seaside cragging, HVS and up). Aldrick is limited but has a cracking if committing soft E4. Santon is complex and has some cool tidal cragging from Diff-E5. There's ton's to do and it's not all death, the crags mentioned above are all pretty solid. Think Gogarth but often with less commitment and a bit smaller, some is solid, some is made of birdsick and noodles

jk

In reply to Skinny Kin:

It's very, very steep but you can sit in all the holds.

In reply to jkarran:
Thanks for some tips on cragging on the island. Though I haven't climbed on Mousetrap, I've read a few things about it. Mousetrap analogy to climbing on Isle of Man is helpful to know. Perhaps wait til after the TT race to visit the island is probably best. You don't want spectators to spot you topping out a route caked in bird crap!

jkarran, I noticed you logged some routes in Scugdale in April. I was there that afternoon as well. We may have bumped into each other!

In reply to jkarran:

Not to mention the ever on form Nik Jennings doing a few font 7c and 8a problems on the IOM.

In reply to Skinny Kin:

Right, Ron Yuen led that and I followed as I could not reach ;

>Climb this corner direct with increasing difficulty on fragile rock to an awkward pullover onto a ledge.

That awkward pullover was on a reasonable hold for the hands, but the foothold you used was a crumbling sloping ledge that disintegrated as you stood on it, much like walking up the down escalator. Ron got a higher hold for his hands, being 6" taller than me and eventually I was on a tight rope to run my feet up the wall and mantle onto the decent ledge.

Now that was not the hardest route we did, but that move was certainly the loosest one I did.

There was one route worse that Chris Bennet started up at Bradda head, not on Mikes website but it went up to the right of the quartz vein on the next buttress. it was really nasty rock, they only got one runner on it and once he found a sort of belay and place to abb off at 130 ft with much the same above the route was abandoned. Don't know if the quartz vein was climbed after we left, it is a very striking and obvious line that I have been 70ft up but had to do too much traversing from there on and that too was left for later.

In reply to Skinny Kin:

Much of it is better than Mousetrap rock quality wise, it's a lot like Gogarth as a whole ranging from Castle Hellen (like Chasms/Groudle) through to some of the scarier choss that I avoid at both places


We did. I thought your profile pic looked familiar. I was one of the York clowns arsing around on the bouldering mats when I was finished climbing.

jk

In reply to bentley's biceps:


When and where did that happen, Laxey recently I guess? He had some desperate projects on the go there back end of last summer.

jk

In reply to sutty:


Not by me it hasn't, I like my life!

There's some awesome stuff down under Bradda, big 3d choss lines on the seaward side and on the Pt Erin bay side, a really spectacular hanging arete, way out over huge caves. Looks like more 3d dust to get to it. Doug and I swam there initially then had one of the most frightening days of my life abbing and scrambling to find it from above. We failed, I needed beer

jk

In reply to jkarran:

We flew round and sailed round to look at the cliffs on that side of the island and decided they were better left to raving loonies. those left of Aldrick also looked rubbish from the air, too wet and slimy and overgrown to explore.

In reply to jkarran:

Yes, Laxey. He's done a topo: http://www.vimeo.com/groups/UKBouldering/files

Beast!

In reply to Skinny Kin: If it's esoteric (and scary) you want Kin then look no further than the Exmoor coast. I'll gladly join you there some time, when my nerves have recovered. How's it going by the way? Long time no see...

In reply to Skinny Kin: Just a quick bump to say cheers for that Laxey Topo looks brilliant, he mentioned a while ago he was going to do one, but didn't realise he had finished it

In reply to chrisprescott:
A pleasure, I think I'll try and do some more for a couple of other areas if people are interested.

James do you have any objections to me doing something for Peel? I know you started putting something together so I don't want to ride roughshod over anything you've prepared...

In reply to Skinny Kin:


I seem to remember Tom Charles-Edwards, top bloke and conoisseur of roller-skating horror shows, talking about a tottering pile of choss on Mull which he had developed an unhealthy obssession with getting his hands on. As I recall it was a multipitch line with one entire pitch being being like soloing cottage cheese. No gear, no brains, no chance and I seem to remember the grade being something horrifying like E5 5a.

There are likely less involved ways to kill yourself, but in his defence I'll say that you probably couldn't do it in more congenial company.