UKC

Bolts anchors on the Cioch burbage

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 simondgee 02 Aug 2020

First time over the top of the Cioch at the Burbage South Quarry in ages and a little surprised to see 2 newish looking bolt anchors on the back edge of the Cioch. Are these in for rigging rope for the belay on silent spring? Or for a group abseil set up (seem to be positioned more for this) ? Seems strange given there are huge boulder anchors off the back of the Cioch. 

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 Graeme Hammond 03 Aug 2020
In reply to simondgee:

Potentially could also be to rig highlines/slackines across the quarry? 

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 duchessofmalfi 03 Aug 2020
In reply to Graeme Hammond:

Whatever the prupose could someone please remove them?

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 Sean_J 03 Aug 2020
In reply to duchessofmalfi:

Whilst I don't necessarily disagree with the principle, do bear in mind that climbers don't own the rocks and out self-imposed ethics of no bolts on grit do not apply to other groups. It might be more constructive to ascertain who placed these bolts and why, and open up a dialogue with the aim of reaching a mutually satisfactory compromise. Was it climbers, was it highliners, was it someone else? We don't know and it's perhaps rash to chop bolts without knowing anything about them.

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 muppetfilter 03 Aug 2020
In reply to Sean_J:

We do know something about them... bolts have been placed without consultation or permission so I suspect they are as good as gone already. Exactly where is the compromise when someone decides to drill bolts i am guessing without the authority of the landowner rather than learn how to build anchors from the existing features.

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 deacondeacon 03 Aug 2020
In reply to muppetfilter:

How do you know there is no authority by the landowner?

I don't want bolts on grit either but just chopping them without consultation is just as bad as placing them without consultation. 

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 deacondeacon 03 Aug 2020
In reply to muppetfilter:

>.... rather than learn how to build anchors from the existing features.

Drilling and placing bolts is a much more specialist skill than tying a rope round a rock. 

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 GrahamD 03 Aug 2020
In reply to deacondeacon:

> I don't want bolts on grit either but just chopping them without consultation is just as bad as placing them without consultation. 

It really isn't. 

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 deacondeacon 03 Aug 2020
In reply to GrahamD:

> It really isn't. 

Of course it is. They could have been placed there to assist a geologist with a survey, who won't be able to carry out his job, or perhaps they're there to carry out some other safety critical work.

I hate seeing bolts on grit, and I'm a passionate beleiver in 'no bolts on grit' but we're just people playing on rocks.

WE DON'T OWN THE CRAGS! 

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 Rick Graham 03 Aug 2020
In reply to deacondeacon:

> Of course it is. They could have been placed there to assist a geologist with a survey, who won't be able to carry out his job, or perhaps they're there to carry out some other safety critical work.

> I hate seeing bolts on grit, and I'm a passionate beleiver in 'no bolts on grit' but we're just people playing on rocks.

> WE DON'T OWN THE CRAGS! 

Except that no one else , apart from wildlife, has "used" the crags for so long and claimed de facto ownership and stewardship of them.

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 dunnyg 03 Aug 2020
In reply to Rick Graham:

I mean, the land-owner owns the crags. 

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 deacondeacon 03 Aug 2020
In reply to Rick Graham:

Err, perhaps the actual landowners? 

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OP simondgee 03 Aug 2020
In reply to deacondeacon:

Are you suggesting that land that is in CROW and specifically for 'leave no trace' leisure use is still open to the landowner to do whatever they like?...tarmac the burbage path? Put up 5G masts? Restart quarrying. The landowner which I understand are the council are IMHO exemplary in land management around Burbage and would be very very unlikely to have pulled a hilti out on any gritstone edge or endorsed any contractor to. Placing bolts without consultation with stakeholders in this area would be very unusual. Will have more news later this afternoon...

We don't own the crags but we do as Rick says have an inherent stewardship that stems back decades. I honestly think these bolts are the work of enthusiastic highliners not aware that this is usually naturally rigged, I am sure the hardware will be history within the week.

Post edited at 15:07
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 GrahamD 03 Aug 2020
In reply to deacondeacon:

The default state of any piece of rock is bolt free.  A debolting can ONLY ever happen if a bolting happened first.  The converse isn't true so they are not equivalent actions.

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 Lankyman 03 Aug 2020
In reply to GrahamD:

> The default state of any piece of rock is bolt free.  A debolting can ONLY ever happen if a bolting happened first.  The converse isn't true so they are not equivalent actions.


Aren't there (old) bolts on Silent Spring? What do people think about removing them? I've never done it but it seems a bit of an historical oddity.

 deacondeacon 03 Aug 2020
In reply to simondgee:

> Are you suggesting that land that is in CROW and specifically for 'leave no trace' leisure use is still open to the landowner to do whatever they like?...tarmac the burbage path? Put up 5G masts? Restart quarrying. 

You can put as many words into my mouth as you like, but I didn't say any of that did I? 

I don't want bolts up there any more than you do, but just chopping them without knowing why they are there, no matter how unlikely they are to be legitimate makes the chopper no better than the bolter. 

Last think we want is a bundle of chopped and rebolted fixings from people deciding they are in the right without getting to the bottom of the matter before taking action. 

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 GrahamD 03 Aug 2020
In reply to Lankyman:

> I've never done it but it seems a bit of an historical oddity.

The odd historical oddities are just that - oddities.

OP simondgee 03 Aug 2020
In reply to deacondeacon:

It was a question I asked you was it not?
There have been a few investigations today (My original post on here being one of them...as UKC is not the be all and end all) and all respondents have been consistent knowledge of and response to their presence. 
>>Last think we want is a bundle of chopped and rebolted fixings from people deciding they are in the right without getting to the bottom of the matter before taking action<<
Is there any evidence history of this happening in the Peak with any past bolt chops? 
 

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OP simondgee 03 Aug 2020
In reply to simondgee:

Update
Someone just called me to update...They took a walk over to investigate and met a member of this congregation who had just chopped them and has made, an apparently, very good camo job on the holes. There was no evidence of matching bolts on the other side of the quarry.
Thumbs up from me to anon.

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 Robert Durran 03 Aug 2020
In reply to deacondeacon:

> I don't want bolts on grit either but just chopping them without consultation is just as bad as placing them without consultation. 

So do you seriously think that, if somebody bolted, say, Right Unconquerable, then someone chopping them would be just as much in the wrong as the person who placed them?

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 deacondeacon 03 Aug 2020
In reply to Robert Durran:

Of course not, but this wasn't a bolt on a route for protection, and it wasn't a bolt for a lower off. It was a bolt for some other unknown reason which still, isn't clear (although probably slacklining). 

I'm as glad as everyone else that it's gone. 

 planetmarshall 03 Aug 2020
In reply to Robert Durran:

> So do you seriously think that, if somebody bolted, say, Right Unconquerable, then someone chopping them would be just as much in the wrong as the person who placed them?

Depends if they were bolting the flake on.

 GGD 03 Aug 2020
In reply to simondgee:

To the chop lobby, if you must please do a nice job of removing bolts, don't just chop them, it leaves an ugly scar which is nearly as unsightly as a shiny bolt.

Post edited at 20:59
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OP simondgee 03 Aug 2020
In reply to GGD:

Apparently its really hard to see where they were but will be intrigued to see 1st hand...i'm sure it won't look as unsightly as perma chalked boulders at Plantation. Opens pop corn.

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In reply to simondgee:

Yup, that's the big problem. A couple of discreet bolts only affect the climbing community, actually just the subset who choose to get wound up either way. 

Accepted normal behaviour from climbers affects a much wider community but a blind eye is turned to it. 

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