UKC

Cioch Direct

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 Roger Martin 12 May 2022

I'm off to Skye soon and would like to climb this route. I've been looking at the pictures in Classic Rock for 40 years. I have a grade or two in hand but understand that it is loose in places. I'd be interested to hear from anyone who has climbed it recently about what condition it is in. Thanks.

 lithos 12 May 2022
In reply to Roger Martin:

did it last week,  a few loose blocks here and there but nothing like the warnings would have you believe, just a normal mountain crag really.  almost dry as well.

OP Roger Martin 12 May 2022
In reply to lithos:

Thanks for the information.

 PaulJepson 12 May 2022
In reply to Roger Martin:

It may not be what a puerile ticker wants to hear, but Cioch West is widely regarded as a better route and is just next door. 

In reply to lithos:

Heading up next month and as a puerile ticker, this is very handy to know. 

 65 13 May 2022
In reply to PaulJepson:

> It may not be what a puerile ticker wants to hear, but Cioch West is widely regarded as a better route and is just next door. 

It's over 30 years since I did either so memory is a bit vague but I thought Cioch Direct was a good route whereas I got lost on Cioch West and ended up following my nose, little of which gave particularly memorable climbing. I have it in my head that lots of people have lost the route on Cioch West.

Anyway, puerile ticking or otherwise, there is nothing stopping the OP doing both, along with several other quality routes there.

 eaf4 13 May 2022
In reply to 65:

Yeah, I think I preferred cioch direct & arrow route to cioch west & nose. 

 veteye 13 May 2022
In reply to eaf4:

I did Arrow route with a friend who did the first pitch, and who traversed 50 meters instead of 15, so I ended up doing a second pitch in different, thinner territory, with virtually no gear, and which may well have fallen out, if relied upon, to get to the terrace. :-} 

My friend's hearing should have been better.

That whole area is just great to be in.

 henwardian 13 May 2022
In reply to lithos:

>  almost dry as well.

There has been pretty much constant rain for about a week now so if "soon" is in the next couple of days I wouldn't bank too hardly on it being dry. Great route though, so I hope the OP does get the conditions to do it.

 lithos 13 May 2022
In reply to henwardian:

yeah i know i was sat In the hut watching the rain (well actually i was sat at top of elgol with iT falling on my head!) last week 

 Hardonicus 13 May 2022
In reply to Roger Martin:

If your carrying a sack beware the chimney section! Arrow route is beautiful.

Post edited at 12:24

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