UKC

I'm off to Skye soon and would like to climb this route. I've been looking at the pictures in Classic Rock for 40 years. I have a grade or two in hand but understand that it is loose in places. I'd be interested to hear from anyone who has climbed it recently about what condition it is in. Thanks.

did it last week,  a few loose blocks here and there but nothing like the warnings would have you believe, just a normal mountain crag really.  almost dry as well.

Thanks for the information.

It may not be what a puerile ticker wants to hear, but Cioch West is widely regarded as a better route and is just next door. 

Heading up next month and as a puerile ticker, this is very handy to know. 

It's over 30 years since I did either so memory is a bit vague but I thought Cioch Direct was a good route whereas I got lost on Cioch West and ended up following my nose, little of which gave particularly memorable climbing. I have it in my head that lots of people have lost the route on Cioch West.

Anyway, puerile ticking or otherwise, there is nothing stopping the OP doing both, along with several other quality routes there.

Yeah, I think I preferred cioch direct & arrow route to cioch west & nose. 

I did Arrow route with a friend who did the first pitch, and who traversed 50 meters instead of 15, so I ended up doing a second pitch in different, thinner territory, with virtually no gear, and which may well have fallen out, if relied upon, to get to the terrace. :-} 

My friend's hearing should have been better.

That whole area is just great to be in.

There has been pretty much constant rain for about a week now so if "soon" is in the next couple of days I wouldn't bank too hardly on it being dry. Great route though, so I hope the OP does get the conditions to do it.

yeah i know i was sat In the hut watching the rain (well actually i was sat at top of elgol with iT falling on my head!) last week 

If your carrying a sack beware the chimney section! Arrow route is beautiful.