In reply to Bob:
> I'd have thought that it was Livesey and then the Lakes and North Wales climbers in the early to mid 1970s who began systematically pre-cleaning routes. Not sure what the Peak crowd such as Birtles and Procter were up to.
If I remember correctly (God, it was only a couple of years ago!) on the Peak Rock interviews, Proctor said that he'd reached a point where he thought not cleaning new routes was silly/dangerous. I think the point was Street pointing him at Zeus (a bit awkward/uphill) for a good ole sandbag, Proctor nipping up in grand style only to be confronted by a load of ball-bearing pebbles adorning that sloping shelf at the top. Birtles ran around and (sans belay, brave man) extended a helping hand. Proctor grabbed it, pulled over and didn't claim the FA. (Caveat: all subject to my dodgy memory of aforesaid tapes.) After that, on FAs, I think Proctor abbed/cleaned, had a look and maybe top-roped as he saw fit.
All this, of course, gave Proctor an edge and kept punters like yours truly off his routes for years until they could summon up some last dregs of courage and finally leave the ground.
Reading all the Peak Rock interviews/transcripts etc, it seemed as though failure to pre-clean held limestone climbing back for decades and gave a lot of people epics. I think Proctor had the right idea. Sometimes it takes an outsider (which he was then) to break the prevailing mould.
Mick