Extended coverage of James Pearson's Walk of Life, George Smith's Upside Down world, Jon Bracey and Matt Helliker's Alaskan new route There's a Moose's Loose Aboot this Hoose and our regular features and departments.
In reply to UKC Advertising: why the F*** didnt echo wall get this treatment!?!? that would have been immense,james pearson always gets loads of pages on his new routes, what about dave mac, or dave birkett?? maybe its cos i like dave macleod more but id rather have seen about echo wall rather than walk of life if i had to choose, also i dont reli like slabs so its not that inspiring to me but still WHYYY!????
In reply to dunkymonkey17: He was all over climb for The groove becuase it was a route with a hard repuatation ect, and the walk of life was graded E12, so its got to be on the front pages! if Dave mac had graded echo wall E12 i would imagine he would have been in the magazine as much...?
why should he have to give it a number though...? its clearly nails, in an awe inspiring situation. if you are really suggesting that the climbing media will only cover stuff if the climber gives it a big number, irrespective of the quality, significance and difficulty of the route, that would be a grim and pathetic situation
In reply to no_more_scotch_eggs: i was mearly suggesting that possibly the media may think that they will sell more magazines if the main bit is about a new E grade (E12), as apposed to an un-graded climb.
surely we can all see echo wall is a truely awe inspiring route? are the readers of climb really so short sighted and uninformed that they wouldnt be interested in seeing dave macleod climbing his hardest route just because he wouldnt give it a number? are you really suggesting that...?
In reply to UKC Advertising: actually I have thought about why echo wall wasnt covered in Climb, he probably doesnt want t tell everyone everything about the route because he wants people to buy his DVD, still a shame tho
In reply to JamieAyres: Are those from the print magazine Jamie?
For over 15 years I've bought at least one magazine a month, but often two and occasionally three - until this year. I've now stopped buying them. I thought Climb was great when it started but if the editor can't even take steps to stop the significant number of typos and spelling errors in each month's copy, you get the feeling they don't care that much about their readers.
In reply to JamieAyres: I sometimes spot them in my own articles on here - of course after I've already read them through twice and then sent them to UKC to be checked as well - so of course it happens. But it's sad that it seemed to get worse with Climb, not better.
I think it's a good issue and enjoyed the articles, I like the insights into other climbers worlds and thoughts, particularly the Head Games bit by Heason and George Smith's Gogarth piece. I'm a stickler for punctuation (funny, just checked my spelling for 'stickler' on the online dictionary, and the definition was 'stickler for punctuation', maybe it's one of those words which only gets used in one or two definitions like 'spree' which I can only think of being used with shopping or killing!) but can't say I noticed any, and if I did, I doubt it'd take my enjoyment away from the reading, it's hardly in the same league as Gravity Magazine was.
In reply to andi turner: Surely you can have a climbing spree.
Jon Bracey And Matt Heileker's route is well impressive. Clearly nails!
Sam L19 Nov 2008
In reply to UKC Advertising: Why, given the stunning photos which came out on their website after the first ascent, did they use a less inspiring, 'looking down at the climber' shot for the front cover like they always do, every month?
It says a lot about Mr M that he didn't grade his route. As a professional climber i can only imagine what that has cost him in terms of money/exposure/sponsorship. It's clear that if Echo wall is "harder than anything else" he has climbed then it has a very real claim to E12.
He can only be respected for his decision not to grade it on the grounds that he really does not know how hard it is and he has real integrity for that.
As for the quality of media, news is now a commodity, it is bought from reuters of the press association and cut and pasted into whatever paper it was bought for. The Sunday papers illustrate this well - they all have the same articles or variations on them. Climbing mags aren't mainstream but are still influenced.
In reply to jonna: yeah i know i dont think i mentioned anything about him not grading it - completely fair enough if he doesnt know the grade. I was just disappointed to get a page about echo wall and a million on walk of life, not saying james pearsons route was any less worthy but why one and and not the other, i would hav preferred to read about echo wall too! but i reckon its prob to do with his DVD james doesnt have to worry about selling a DVD on essentially just one route, cos committed 2 has loads of other stuff on it, just a bit peed off tht occasioanlly climb cocks up and makes a stupid decision like the time they went on a mission to have no hard routes in their mag to appeal to climbers climbing at that grade, i just thought oh this is just uninspiring now and got worried that i ahd wasted money on sub scriptioN! whoa rant over lol
> (In reply to UKC Advertising) Why, given the stunning photos which came out on their website after the first ascent, did they use a less inspiring, 'looking down at the climber' shot for the front cover like they always do, every month?
Apparently facial shots sell more copies? Personally I have really thought that many of summits cover shots to be better images. In that given a choice of cut all the covers off, getting them framed and put up on a wall in my house, it would have to be Summit hands down.
As I know you love my chessy pop links sam, you'll love my Video Kill the radio star blog. Its about climbing magazine, mainly climb, but in the fairness of balance I will ridicule Climber at some point. I do focus on why UKC is killing print media.
> (In reply to Sam L)
> Apparently facial shots sell more copies?
Maybe, but having almost the same photo on the front cover of every issue, they've lost my interest. Couldn't agree more re: Summit, they consistently have exciting, high quality and varied photos on the front, it makes the cover more of a thing, rather than just a photo which helps you recognise it's a climbing mag. The lack of straplines on Summit are also nice, they let the photo do the talking. Summit is something made to a high quality point (in design, imagery and writing), and they don't compromise, which I respect them for. If I didn't get it free with my BMC membership I'd buy it.
I don't think UKC needs to kill the print media - definately they aren't so relevant if they follow the old model of news, but if they change and develop then they could still survive and excell. And I don't mean starting their own websites, I mean offering the things that the web can't-high quality photos and articles you can hold in your hand. Things you want to read on the train or the bog, not extended news coverage you heard online weeks ago.
(like your blog...)
> I don't think UKC needs to kill the print media -
Nor wants to. I too enjoy a good varied read about climbing and looking at beautiful photos...all printed on paper.
Aiden Wright20 Nov 2008
The editorial says that there are millions of pages of James Pearson saturation coverage because "that's what climbers want". It would be interesting to see the research that backs that up, but it is probably just the editors sitting around drinking tea and not using their imaginations. Great ascent and all that, but less is more. I didn't bother buying it this month because of the saturation coverage.
Sam L20 Nov 2008
In reply to Aiden Wright: It's not what I want either, I enjoyed looking at the pictures on the web, reading the Climb and UKC coverage, reading JP's blog, reading David Simmonite's input, reading the discussion on UKC, but really, what more could they be putting in the mag to be worthwhile a purchase? At any rate, Climb is a bit like the James Pearson fanzine, there are others out there...
I real really really really really love climbing magazines I admire the way they give such great coverage on all aspects of our sport and get around loads so we get to see hidden away areas like almscliffe and caley. What also impresses me is that they dont pander to their advertisers so you get a really good feel for each route as every other photo isn't just the top of the climbers arms where they sew the badges on or the front of their camp helmet with a north face sticker.