Crag / Route recommendations SW and Wales

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Next weekend I am setting off on a two week climbing trip around the southwest and then to Pembroke and finishing in North Wales.  The plan is to generally just make it up as we go along.

Looking for recommendations of good crags to visit and classic routes not to miss (around vs/hvs).

Thanks in advance.

 Steve Crowe 06 Jun 2021
 Ged Desforges 06 Jun 2021
In reply to msjhes2:

Head straight to Cornwall and do all the ones on that list. 

In reply to msjhes2:

I did mur y niwl and pinnacle wall the other day - 6 utterly outstanding pitches and the best routes I've done in ages. MyN gets VS 4c but I think low end HVS 5a is more accurate.

In reply to msjhes2:


South Face Direct

Wreckers’ Slab.

Lost Horizon

No Musketeers and neighbouring routes


Osiris & Isis


to name a few

In reply to msjhes2:

Thanks all, some great suggestions there.

 PaulJepson 07 Jun 2021
In reply to Rog Wilko:

Great list, Assassin is fantastic. I'd add:

Hell Gates (HVS 5a) (this is quite high in HVS imo. If you want a softer touch then Suspense (HVS 5a) is great also, and Jos√© Dansack (HVS 4c) round the corner is my favourite route in the gorge). 

Sinew (HVS 5a)Questor (VS 4b)Cadillac (VS 4c)

Exposure Explosion (HVS 5a)

Little Brown Jug (VS 5a)Anvil Chorus (VS 4c)Right Angle (HS 4b)

Climbers' Club Ordinary (VS 4b)Leviathan (VS 4c)

 Lhod 08 Jun 2021
In reply to PaulJepson:

I love Avon dearly, but for heavens sakes if you have the whole of the SW, Pembroke and N Wales to visit then don't waste your time in the Avon Gorge 😂

In reply to Lhod:

Liked - and that's my local crag.  I'd argue you make an exception for Giant's Cave Buttress though, for a quick route on the way to break a journey this could/would work very well.

 PaulJepson 09 Jun 2021
In reply to Bobling:

Yes Avon is shite but I think living in Bristol desensitises you to how cool climbing under the suspension bridge is. People travel from all over the country to just look at it. And unlike GCB, the climbing on Suspense and Hell Gates is actually good.

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