/ crags in between Lyon and ceuse (Grenoble area?)
We are flying into Lyon on Sunday about midday and heading to ceuse for a week of climbing. We really want to climb everyday to make the most out of the short trip, and would love some recommendations of decent crags that we pass (short walk in) on our drive down to ceuse from Lyon, Via Grenoble.
ideally lots of low to mid 7s
Once you get past Grenoble you’ve got a choice or routes. If you head towards Lus la Croix Haute you have a drive through stunning scenery, but maybe not necessarily great access to the best sport crags. You have the Vercors up to your right, and you pass right under Mont Aiguille, but hardly a sports crag! Then you go over the Col de la Croix Haute and down past Lus la Croix Haute. If you swing left here towards the ski area La Jarjatte, it is a stunning valley, all it’s missing is a great sports crag! A nice short via ferrata though.
As you head down this valley, the Buëch, there’s a number of crags over to your right, towards Chatillon, but they take a bit of finding and you’ll need a local guide.
South of Lus you pass my village, St Julien en Beauchêne - If you want an hour’s exercise, there’s a nice little aiguille here - in the Orpierre guide. Another 10 mins south, there’s another reasonable crag at the Gorge d’Aginelles, and a couple of ViaFerrata. Neither of these are worth a big detour, but if you’re passing....
I guess the other route from Grenoble is down the N85 to Gap, but I’ve no idea what’s along that road! In between the 2 routes is the Devoluy, which is fabulous, big mountain routes, sport, skiing, cycling, the lot!
There are other crags lower down the Buëch valley, past Orpierre, but then you’re getting off route for Cëuse. There’s a load of crags up around Lyon I believe with a local guide - but we’ve yet to explore those. Have fun!
Cheers guys there looks plenty to go at here, thanks
Depending on conditions, of course:
Tina Dalle - lots to do in mid 7s, beautiful cliff, but South facing. Short approach. https://www.camptocamp.org/waypoints/103555/fr/presles-rocher-de-nugues-tina-dalle
Ombleze - not *really* on the way, but might be worth the detour. Pecheur crag is right off the road, lots in low to mid 7, and in the shade in the afternoon Ombleze
Satan Wall - local high end summer crag, 5-10 min approach. many 7s http://www.vercorde.com/topo-escalade-vercors-satan.html
Desert d'Ecureuil - mostly high 6s, some low 7s, and one 7c+/8a. 1 minute approach https://climbingaway.fr/fr/site-escalade/desert-de-l-ecureuil
A week on without a rest day at Ceuse will break you. Best of luck though, and enjoy, its an utterly brilliant crag. I did a lot of brilliant low 7's there in July last year (on logbook) should you want/need recommendations.
A week is going to be easy :P we did nearly a winter of no rest days no joke!! Cheers will do
Dave Graham has climbed Hypnotized Minds (Font 8C+) after sustained efforts over seven years. The problem was first climbed by Daniel Woods in 2010 and went unrepeated for several years until Russian climber Rustam Gelmanov made short work of...