UKC

Dangerous Bolts Removed - Alberta Canada

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 Iamgregp 10 Jun 2021

Saw this article about some people doing amateur bolting in Canada https://gripped.com/profiles/dangerous-bolts-added-to-yamnuska-removed/

As I'm one of the people here that has often argued that instances of dangerous bolting by inexperienced people are rare, I thought, fair's fair, I ought to post this!  

It's also a great article as it's not just the bolting that is suspect, but the "quickdraws" and the obviously jaw droppingly low level of knowledge or experience of the team who did this.

I also like the response of the climbing community - chop the bolts and say very loudly and repeatedly that this is wrong, sure.  But also admire the endeavour and gumption of them, and hope to draw the culprits into the fold and help to educate them.  The right response in my opinion!

 jimtitt 10 Jun 2021
In reply to Iamgregp:

Technically they probably aren't underdrilled but too long.

 Iamgregp 10 Jun 2021
In reply to jimtitt:

Certainly too long, wouldn't like to take a whipper into one of them!

In reply to Iamgregp:

Make good foot holds.

 Iamgregp 10 Jun 2021
In reply to Inane Negativity:

Funnily enough I thought the same when I saw the photo!

 gravy 11 Jun 2021
In reply to Iamgregp:

They looked better than some of the bolts I used in the Peak yesterday!

 Sans-Plan 11 Jun 2021
In reply to Iamgregp:

The "quickdraws" if you can call them that are, erm, interesting to say the least.

In reply to jimtitt:

> Technically they probably aren't underdrilled but too long.

Are they too long because they are under-drilled?

In reply to Sans-Plan:

Yeah, people on reddit were fixating on the "12kN" ebay carabiners, but what would worry me more is that the cord looks like paracord which has a breaking strain of just over 2kN before tying knots in it.

In a certain horrified way I do have to admire the brazen self confidence of these guys though to have absolutely no idea what they're doing and just go for it anyway.

 Sans-Plan 11 Jun 2021
In reply to pancakeandchips:

> .... looks like paracord which has a breaking strain of just over 2kN before tying knots in it.

The overhand knot with an inch of tail would be slightly concerning when loaded...

 jimtitt 11 Jun 2021
In reply to DubyaJamesDubya:

No, they are designed to always have the same embedded depth and the threaded part longer or shorter to cope with the thickness of whatever one is fixing. If they followed the manufacturers instructions  (as one is always told to) and bolts are longer then the rest stays sticking out.

In reply to pancakeandchips:

> In a certain horrified way I do have to admire the brazen self confidence of these guys though to have absolutely no idea what they're doing and just go for it anyway.

Ignorance is bliss?


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