UKC

Deja Vu The Great Zawn Bosigran

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 oakapple 15 May 2006
Has anyone done this route recently? is it clean, from the ground it looks like there is alot of green lichen, which i imagine is not great for the thin slab.
 UKB Shark 15 May 2006
In reply to oakapple:

Henry Barber did the FA on sight so it should be ok
OP oakapple 15 May 2006
Ok so i will assume that it is in a climbable condition. How good is the gear before you embark on the slab? or perhaps a better question is does anyone anybody how has taken a fall from the slab and survived?
 duncan 15 May 2006
In reply to oakapple:

I held the ropes whilst a pal had a peek this at a couple of years ago. On the positive side, it was clean, the holds are all there to see and the hard section looks to be quite short. However, there didn't seem to be any obvious stopper gear from the belay until you reached Dream but he didn't spend a long time looking. I think it's probably one of those routes you don't even think about falling off.

On the other hand, Andy2 seems to think that it does have gear (second post): http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=71994&v=1#962141so
You could have a look and let us know!
 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator  UKC Supporter 15 May 2006
In reply to oakapple:

I thought the gear was pretty poor, I remember a thin sling on a tiny spike, and trying to stand on the spike without kicking the sling off. The difficulties are quite shot-lived though. We split it at the stance on the left and if I remember correctly Binky had 5 nuts pulling down and 3 set for an upward pull! In the event they were not needed. A truely memorable route even if its not a true classic!


Chris
 Andy2 16 May 2006
In reply to duncan: Trust me, it does have gear. I could tell you (and the OP) exactly what size piece I used, if you (or he) wanted to know.
 Al Evans 16 May 2006
In reply to Andy2: I agree with Chris, I thought the gear was threatening, but it was a while ago.
This is me, I think on the second ascent, photo by Brian Cropper.
http://www.dangeroussite.com/images/gallery/Brians/dejavu.JPG
OP oakapple 16 May 2006
Yeah any gear advise would be great, i have no qualms about using a little beta for the onsight. Didn't want to ab down to check if it was clean, tried to have a look from dream the other day but could really see much.
 Al Evans 16 May 2006
In reply to oakapple: Take plenty of RP's/small stuff, don't bother with any Friend 4's.
 Andy2 16 May 2006
In reply to oakapple:

OK, beta alert....














Take a small cam, Friend 0. Take a Friend 0.5 in case I'm wrong. Stick this in a horizontal crack before the crucial traverse right before the black-streaked slab.

Also take a thin tape for the spike, and some tiny RPs.

A Friend 4 would actually be useful, as a weight to hold the tape in place.

I'm not really sure about your concept of Beta for the onsight !???!
OP oakapple 16 May 2006
Thanks for the advise on the cams. I would say rack and some placement knowledge, does not comprimise an onsight. Loads of routes have this sort of information in the guide descriptions! I have no beta on any of the moves which is the climbing part!!
 Graham Hoey 16 May 2006
In reply to oakapple:

Sorry, but you are wrong, wrong, wrong. No argument. Beta for gear means no on-sight. Its absolutely black and white!
Have fun, its a great route, and the run-out is in balance and over very quickly.
Graham
OP oakapple 16 May 2006
Ok seems a little harsh by the ethics police, but i accept that it wont be a true onsight. Really looking forward to getting on the route though! the Great Zawn is just such a good crag, proper out there sea cliff climbing.
 craig d 16 May 2006
In reply to oakapple:

I think a true on sight ascent should not allow reading the guidebook description. Turn up at at unknown piece of rock and just climb it. Even the grade gives away information.
In reply to craig d:

To be honest any onsight is invalidated the instant you set foot on the rock
 Al Evans 17 May 2006
In reply to Graham Hoey: Graham, that is so naughty!

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