Ok so i will assume that it is in a climbable condition. How good is the gear before you embark on the slab? or perhaps a better question is does anyone anybody how has taken a fall from the slab and survived?
I held the ropes whilst a pal had a peek this at a couple of years ago. On the positive side, it was clean, the holds are all there to see and the hard section looks to be quite short. However, there didn't seem to be any obvious stopper gear from the belay until you reached Dream but he didn't spend a long time looking. I think it's probably one of those routes you don't even think about falling off.
I thought the gear was pretty poor, I remember a thin sling on a tiny spike, and trying to stand on the spike without kicking the sling off. The difficulties are quite shot-lived though. We split it at the stance on the left and if I remember correctly Binky had 5 nuts pulling down and 3 set for an upward pull! In the event they were not needed. A truely memorable route even if its not a true classic!
Yeah any gear advise would be great, i have no qualms about using a little beta for the onsight. Didn't want to ab down to check if it was clean, tried to have a look from dream the other day but could really see much.
Thanks for the advise on the cams. I would say rack and some placement knowledge, does not comprimise an onsight. Loads of routes have this sort of information in the guide descriptions! I have no beta on any of the moves which is the climbing part!!
Sorry, but you are wrong, wrong, wrong. No argument. Beta for gear means no on-sight. Its absolutely black and white!
Have fun, its a great route, and the run-out is in balance and over very quickly.
Ok seems a little harsh by the ethics police, but i accept that it wont be a true onsight. Really looking forward to getting on the route though! the Great Zawn is just such a good crag, proper out there sea cliff climbing.
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