In reply to Removed UserMinneconjou Sioux:
> I'm not after a witch hunt here but I would like to be sure that Whillans had an accurate biography.
That's an entirely relevant question. I suppose there are two criteria for judgement - is it factually accurate and is it a fair and rounded portrait? My understanding is that it is factually accurate. Jim goes back a long way with both Bonington and Brown; in particular, he's been a friend of Brown's since the 60s. I can't imagine that both would not have been concerned with factual accuracy at the very least - though obviously the responsibility is Jim's, not theirs'.
Is it a fair and rounded portrait? I didn't know Whillans so my opinion is worthless. Again and again you hear that his persona/behaviour varied from outstanding to being a real pillock. But just one example of the former...
Apparently when Bonington and Whillans went up for Brian Nally on the Eiger, the stonefall was absolutely horrific. Wilson reckoned they should have been awarded the George Cross. When Nally asked to join them to go on to the top, you can understand how, in terrible distress, he could think that topping out would somehow be a testament to Barry Brewster. And you can imagine Bonington and Whillans' horror. What did Whillans say, something like, "Might be time to go back down to the valley for a cup of tea." It doesn't get more compassionate than that.
Undoubtedly the biography was a monkey on Jim's back. He had a big poster of Whillans in later years, fag in gob, looking really mean, pinned up by his writing desk. At one point, I begged him to take it down; he wouldn't. It was a constant reminder to get on with the job.
Goucho's right - Jim was the only person to do this. It was a monkey on his back, it was a penance, it was his fate. Ultimately it was his duty. And however difficult life was for him at the end, he did it.
So was The Villain a cynical hatchet job, a grinding of axes, a settling of scores? I would think almost certainly not.
Mick