Richard Else, on Radio Scotland's Out of Doors programme this morning announced that Dave Macleod completed his E10 route on Hells Lum on Thursday, "one of the most dangerous climbs in the country"
To be shown on TV sometime over the next 5 - 6 weeks.
The man did good..............
Anybody else got any news about this?
In reply to Fiend:
'nuff respect to him.
I wonder if he told his Mrs that it was a "certain death route" before hand ? If so, then I bet she is releived its all over. If he didnt tell her, I bet hes grounded now for a month
In reply to Mike C: This is an amazing route, and the hardest ascent of the year. Ok, so it is Bank Holiday w/e but still, it is VERY quiet out there and no other sites have really picked up about it.
This got me thinking, it is actually very cool for us climbers that most of the big news is instantly available, often with videos etc, even the boys like Big Up who make money from it put out teasers and it flies aound teh web in a jiffy. It kind of annoyed me that there are no pix or vid. up, even though the route was filmed. I don't live in the UK (along with quite a few billion others) and prolly won't get to see this unless someone puts it on youtube. The BBC is cool and all that, but they should get this footage on't'web I reckon... No one will know about it otherwise!
<wildly-off-topic> Many people argue the license fee is a form of regressive taxation, as most households are liable and the 'tax' is identical for all income levels. Ironically, you are also more likely to get away with not paying in higher-income neighbourhoods as Crapita's analysis finds fee-chasing to be more fruitful in poor areas (or so I read somewhere). </off-topic>
> "I don't live in the UK (along with quite a few billion others) and prolly won't get to see this unless someone puts it on youtube. The BBC is cool and all that, but they should get this footage on't'web I reckon... No one will know about it otherwise!"
- Agree with you completely. Does anyone know about plans to get this onto a DVD or onto the net from the BBC?
Richard Else was saying that footage would be shown on the BBC in a few weeks, & previously he'd said they were intending to get a DVD released of The Great Climb soon after the event. His comment on the BBC website about the film being called To Hell & Back would indicate this will be available to buy after it's transmission, that's his business after all.
> (In reply to Mike C)
> Have just looked at it on his blog....fuggin' amazing climb. Looks so eerie. I wish climbing had far more publicity. The people I talk to about it tend to go,
> 'Hmmm,' and turn away.
> It's either fear or disinterest but as a physical activity, surely it should enrapture more of the public?
As a one off it may interest just for the uniqueness. As a regular news item it would flop. Climbing isn't a spectator sport. Do you want it to be anyway?
In reply to IainRUK: Not sure what the BBC are doing, when the live broadcast was cancelled the message on the web site said they were going to put some video of the preparations, etc on line 'soon' but then that message dissapeared and it now suggests they'll be a programme on the TV sometime in the future - of less interest to me as I can't watch UK TV but would have been able to see the video on the web.
I suspect plans for showing the climb are still pretty fluid - as of late Thursday afternoon, the BBC didn't know whether Dave would be successful, so they didn't know if they were going to have a programme of any kind, let alone what form it would take. Given that we've had a weekend between then and now, I'd be very surprised if any firm decisions have been taken. It's quite probable that Richard hasn't even viewed much of the film yet.
What I don't get is how Hells Lum is obvisouly a very difficult climb described as vertual death, yet when Dave walked away from Indian Face he said he didn't want to face death for the sake of it. Where's the difference in that? I don't get it...
> What I don't get is how Hells Lum is obvisouly a very difficult climb described as vertual death, yet when Dave walked away from Indian Face he said he didn't want to face death for the sake of it. Where's the difference in that? I don't get it...
Dave took a bit longer than a breath between the statements, so the difference maybe time.
I suspect this first ascent is more meaningful to Dave than the 4th ascent of Indian Face. I also suspect he prefers the type of danger in this route (i.e. due to harder climbing rather than snappy rock).
The different style of holds ment he was more confident he'd not die on 'Hell and Back' than on I.F.
Anonymous27 Aug 2007
In reply to Sarah Harding: good point
the only thing i can think of is that HL has more positive holds, which are less likely to fail (ie less 'objective' danger)
but why the higher grade?
Iain Forrest27 Aug 2007
In reply to Sarah Harding:
From what he's blogged, it seems like the difference is that he reckoned the Indian Face carried a significant risk of death from something he had little control over (a hold snapping), whilst To Hell and Back would only result in death if he himself made a mistake - so it was under his own control.
It's a pretty amazing achievement, and it shows how much Dave's climbing means to him that he's willing to risk so much for it.
In reply to Fiend: I think that is exactly it. I took it that he felt there would be some fortune needed to climb IF safey, where as this route was down to his own technique. A fall from either would probably be fateful but the risks from IF were more from rock failure than his own ability. I've liked his openess and honesty when attempting these routes and his feeling of guilt he expressed after Hells Lum.
In reply to Richard Else: The original programme was scheduled to be on the web (meaning those of us outside the UK could watch), we were then told that some video would be on the web (message now deleted) - will the programme be available outside the UK ?
I don't know what Lynn Hill fell onto when she took her 86ft fall, but falling on To Hell and Back would have been particularly grim - the bottom of the gully is rocky and spiky and generally the kind of thing that's hard enough to walk on, let alone fall onto.
> (In reply to tony)
> I presume from the blog Claire was set up to run if Dave came off, what were the odds of this working?
That was the plan - I was on the rope with the dodgy skyhook just before the crux, Claire was on the 'secure' rope on the good gear, much lower. I didn't work out the distances, but if he'd come off the crux and the skyhook had ripped, I don't think Claire would have been able to move quick enough or far enough to take in the necessary slack onto the good gear. Very relieved we never had to find out whether the plan would work.
> (In reply to tony)
> Scary stuff! Was he seconded up it? If not how was he belayed for the second pitch, did someone ab onto the belay?
The original plan for the Live Climb had been for Cubby to second the route, which would have been a fantastic historical moment. Unfortunately, Cubby got injured so that plan went out the window.
For the second pitch, I had to get out the bottom of the gully, along the bottom of Hell's Lum crag, up past the burn and along the top of the crag and then I abbed onto the belay - it was that or jumarring up, and if we'd gone for the latter option, we would have finished even later than we did!
> (In reply to Enty)
> Fall was off Styx wall and partially broken by trees. I think she also talked of managing to optimise her landing posture in mid-air somehow? Superhuman obviously ...
She was very very lucky. Anyone who's seen what the landing's like on that hillside below Styx Wall will know this. You have about a 60/40 chance of landing on rocks/plants and fortunately Lynn got the 40. The trees broke her fall but it wouldn't have made any difference if she'd not got lucky on the landing. She didn't even break anything IIRC, amazing really.
Broke a foot apparently, according to this according to one interview:
In 1989 Hill fell 30 meters--the length of the Styx wall near her home in Boux, France. She had completed the climb without tying properly into her rope. Because her fall was broken by a tree, she got off relatively lightly, suffering a broken foot, punctures in her shoulder and chest, a dislocated elbow, and stitches in her nose, shoulder, and chin.