UKC

Good first 7b in Chulilla?

Please Register as a New User in order to reply to this topic.

Got a trip planned to Chulilla next month, where I'll be doing "work from home" for three weeks.

After a big accident last year, and then a bunch of annoying injuries this year, I'm finally getting back to fitness. A couple of 7a onsights earlier this month, but the big goal for the year is 7b sport.

I'm looking at Dale duro negro (7b) although I'm worried it might be very polished, as well as Segul lluitan (7b), although the location here isn't ideal in terms of not much to warm up on in the surrounding area.

So, any other suggestions please shoot my way! For reference, vertical/slightly over-hung endurance routes are my strength. Bouldery/powerful routes are not. I was in Kalymnos recently and tufas still make me cry.

 jezb1 12 Oct 2021
In reply to Paul Sagar:

The polish doesn't detract from Dale Duro Negro, if you've got good stamina then it could be a good 'un.

El Regalito just down the way is ace too.

Segul is quality too, an engaging climb. Easy enough to warm up over Oasis side if you need to.

Post edited at 22:13
 AJM 12 Oct 2021
In reply to Paul Sagar:

If you don’t like tufas then it doesn’t matter that I can’t remember what the name of the other one I did was, but anyway, enjoyed Cantalobos (7b), it’s not really bouldery, I got quite pumped, so might fit the bill. Good route.

In reply to Paul Sagar:

Good stuff! That's at least three to have burns on and see which feels easiest then!

 joeramsay 12 Oct 2021
In reply to Paul Sagar:

Segui lluitan is a banger, honest climbing so good candidate to try and onsight. Animaculos de la placa (7b) and Animula vagula blandula (7b) are really good fun and sound like they might suit 

 misterb 13 Oct 2021
In reply to Paul Sagar:

Deep Purpal (7b)

This and el americano next to it are quite good and relatively soft , serengueti the classic 7a+ is harder and really rather good

 misterb 13 Oct 2021
In reply to misterb:

Danos Colaterales (7b+)

Small tufa trickery which has really got to be on the list, it is ace and a pump fest after the initial boulder problem off the deck if I remember right

In reply to Paul Sagar:

lol there is no way I can climb 7b+ tufa. but thanks 

 Josh Lewis 13 Oct 2021
In reply to Paul Sagar:

Thoroughly enjoyed La Paz Del Borrego (7b)

 JMarkW 13 Oct 2021
In reply to Paul Sagar:

> lol there is no way I can climb 7b+ tufa. but thanks 

its more face climbing really than tufa climbing. its not like Dafni....

 JMarkW 13 Oct 2021
In reply to JMarkW:

I genuinely almost cried on Dafni.

 AJM 13 Oct 2021
In reply to Paul Sagar:

Danos Colaterales (7b+) is nothing like Dafni. Think of it as face climbing with an above average amount of pinches rather than the 3D series of hands off rests that Dafni represents

More seriously, it is an accessible option - if you can get through the crux (so to about bolt 4) you can probably do the whole thing (in terms of moves), so it's reasonably low commitment to have a quick look.

 misterb 13 Oct 2021
In reply to AJM:

This!! It's worth a try for sure

 sfletch 13 Oct 2021
 jezb1 13 Oct 2021
In reply to sfletch:

Good shout, quality route!

In reply to AJM:

If a 7b goes down in relatively short order, I may well set my sights on this. 

And if it is anything like Dafni I will cry. 

 AJM 14 Oct 2021
In reply to Paul Sagar:

> If a 7b goes down in relatively short order, I may well set my sights on this. 

> And if it is anything like Dafni I will cry. 

If you can find as many hands off rests as on Dafni I shall be most impressed!

 Ciro 14 Oct 2021
In reply to Paul Sagar:

The full 50m line of Sendero Luminoso gets 7b - even by Chulilla standards it's over graded but a fantastic line that's well worth getting on. Potentially onsightable if you've onsighted 7a elsewhere.

Around that grade I would personally recommend pretty much anything in Chorerras, but you've said you don't like those... a French female climber shouting "that was better than an orgasm!" as she stripped one of the 7b or 7b+ there was a memorable moment... I might not have gone quite that far but they were all very, very good.

In reply to Paul Sagar:

Segul Iluitan is sooo good! Got a bit of everything and is never hard or easy. You could always warm up at el oasis then head over there once it has come into the shade? 

In reply to AJM:

They’re not hands off when you’re too scared to let go 

 AJM 14 Oct 2021
In reply to Paul Sagar:

Sounds like you had a character building experience. Whether that's how you want to have your character built is obviously a key question!

 irish paul 14 Oct 2021

Animaculos de la placa (7b)

Only 7b in my guide with "Brilliant" scrawled after it - 37m and a nice crack up the top I think. 

Los merenderas (7b)

I think this has a low boulder crux but stuck in my mind


Please Register as a New User in order to reply to this topic.
Loading Notifications...