Got a trip planned to Chulilla next month, where I'll be doing "work from home" for three weeks.
After a big accident last year, and then a bunch of annoying injuries this year, I'm finally getting back to fitness. A couple of 7a onsights earlier this month, but the big goal for the year is 7b sport.
I'm looking at Dale duro negro (7b) although I'm worried it might be very polished, as well as Segul lluitan (7b), although the location here isn't ideal in terms of not much to warm up on in the surrounding area.
So, any other suggestions please shoot my way! For reference, vertical/slightly over-hung endurance routes are my strength. Bouldery/powerful routes are not. I was in Kalymnos recently and tufas still make me cry.
The polish doesn't detract from Dale Duro Negro, if you've got good stamina then it could be a good 'un.
El Regalito just down the way is ace too.
Segul is quality too, an engaging climb. Easy enough to warm up over Oasis side if you need to.
If you don’t like tufas then it doesn’t matter that I can’t remember what the name of the other one I did was, but anyway, enjoyed Cantalobos (7b), it’s not really bouldery, I got quite pumped, so might fit the bill. Good route.
Good stuff! That's at least three to have burns on and see which feels easiest then!
This and el americano next to it are quite good and relatively soft , serengueti the classic 7a+ is harder and really rather good
Small tufa trickery which has really got to be on the list, it is ace and a pump fest after the initial boulder problem off the deck if I remember right
> lol there is no way I can climb 7b+ tufa. but thanks
its more face climbing really than tufa climbing. its not like Dafni....
Danos Colaterales (7b+) is nothing like Dafni. Think of it as face climbing with an above average amount of pinches rather than the 3D series of hands off rests that Dafni represents
More seriously, it is an accessible option - if you can get through the crux (so to about bolt 4) you can probably do the whole thing (in terms of moves), so it's reasonably low commitment to have a quick look.
If a 7b goes down in relatively short order, I may well set my sights on this.
And if it is anything like Dafni I will cry.
> If a 7b goes down in relatively short order, I may well set my sights on this.
> And if it is anything like Dafni I will cry.
If you can find as many hands off rests as on Dafni I shall be most impressed!
The full 50m line of Sendero Luminoso gets 7b - even by Chulilla standards it's over graded but a fantastic line that's well worth getting on. Potentially onsightable if you've onsighted 7a elsewhere.
Around that grade I would personally recommend pretty much anything in Chorerras, but you've said you don't like those... a French female climber shouting "that was better than an orgasm!" as she stripped one of the 7b or 7b+ there was a memorable moment... I might not have gone quite that far but they were all very, very good.
Segul Iluitan is sooo good! Got a bit of everything and is never hard or easy. You could always warm up at el oasis then head over there once it has come into the shade?
Sounds like you had a character building experience. Whether that's how you want to have your character built is obviously a key question!