UKC

Hopefully going to have a day to climb around Gower next month. 

I've never been but have been told there's some really good climbing. What crags and routes should I look out for? Mainly looking at about VS.

Cheers, BW

Gotta be Fall Bay. Osiris is a classic at VS.  

If u can push to hvs then Assassin (HVS 5a) is well worth doing. As mentioned osiris is the other great route I remember from the gower at vs. 

I can climb HVS, but climbing with someone less experienced. I'll keep it in mind though!

Just nearby, Dry Riser (HVS 4c) is a good climb; though if the OP is with someone a little less experienced, then perhaps not for this visit.  There's enough at Boiler Slab Port Eynon at suitable grades to occupy a few hours (well, I enjoyed my visits there).

And it's 30 years since I climbed Osiris; nice climb, but what sticks in the mind most is that there was a wooden wedge still in situ, presumably from an ascent back in the days when you had to invent your own protection.  Is it still there?

T.

The wedge was there the last time I climbed it, but that was a while back. Bomber bit of gear! 

Three Cliffs - 

Perseverance (HS 4b)

Arch Slab (VS 4c)

Scavenger (VS 4c)

They look great thanks

The routes at Juniper Wall Third Sister to Zulu Zawn (for some reason the venue doesn't get given its own page on here) are good (see Assassin above) and the VSs on the right hand side are really worthwhile too. They are also mainly quite soft for the grade so would be good for your partner's confidence. This picture (of mine) gives you an idea what it's like On The Horizon (VS 4c)#photos&gid=1&pid=2

Also, it is one of the most beautiful places to climb in the Gower (IMO), and in my experience quite quiet. There are also some other nice routes on the opposite side of the zawn (Paviland) if you run out of things to do.  But Fall Bay is good too.

Juniper Wall is worth the walk. Plus it's quiet with some great longer routes. Assassin is HVS but a great line. 

I have done Scavenger twice - once as a second and once as a lead. I thought it was a classic at the time and have been sad to hear that it is now rather polished. As a line it is brilliant.

I have also done Osiris which is superb but what seems so key to the Gower's routes is that they start from a beach so I would lean to such routes that are recommended.

I did it last weekend and it was fine. Not really polished at all. Some gear placements were worn but the climbing was always decent rock. Avon is my local crag though, so I may have a skewed definition of polish. It's not as grippy as say Arch Slab but still absolutely fine. Getting off the ground where the rock is covered in barnacles with not too positive holds was exciting, however. 

Agreed. I had been warned about the polish and was a bit wary of it when setting off. But found it absolutely fine. But then I'm used to portland polish which is on par with avon. 

This ticklist I compiled a while back may be of interest - quality guaranteed! https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=965

Looking forward to visiting, fingers crossed for ok weather. Just ordered a second hand 2011 paper back guide from eBay. 

Thanks for all the suggestions, it's sounds like I might be visiting again!

As others have said, if you can stretch to Assassin then it's one of the best routes I've climbed.

Solid HVS though, so don't get on it if you aren't sure!

I found the south Wales climbing wiki earlier and I've been looking at assassin - it looks awesome! I really want to do it, but I think it's going to be beyond my climbing partner who is relatively inexperienced at cragging and I don't want to put him off. I'm just going to have to return with a more experienced partner!

If your partner is quite inexperienced your first port of call might be King Wall at Fall Bay as there are plenty of unthreatening routes at a variety of grades. It is tidal, though and useful to be able to abseil. Boiler slab is similar but not tidal and easy walk down, but is adversely affected by groups.

I think we're going to try 3 cliffs bay, the route above the arch and the cave route look great. It's next Friday that we'll be there and low tide is about 3 pm, what's the earliest I'm likely to be able to get to the bottom of the cliff?

Depending on when you're going you might want to be aware of this

https://www.lovetrailsfestival.co.uk/

They've got some "intro to climbing" sessions planned so will probably end up at one or more of the usual low-grade crags (Boiler Slab etc)

That's actually why we're down there. Some friends are organising the trail events and we're helping them out with child care as our kids are good friends (we got free tickets in exchange). 

I didn't spot any mention of climbing on the website, but I'll certainly have my eye out for any either as an excuse to do more climbing or to get the kids climbing!

It's mentioned in the poster on their facebook page

Not an expert on this, but it is a very tidal crag. I'd guess 3 hours before low tide at best, but some locals would know better.

Yep very tidal and comes in real fast.  If at any stage you're on the fence about having time for one more route, get the hell outta dodge because it'll be on you in a flash. 

Thanks for the advice!

If I can get a few hours next Thursday evening would anyone fancy going to do assassin? 

or make sure you leave your bags on the cliff top, and climb the last route from a semi-hanging belay a couple of metres up...

I think its more than 3 hours even, the guide book gives more accurate tidal windows. I've climbed there quite a few times and there's plenty of time to get lots of routes done in that area.

Under Milk Wood (VS 4a) Is also good fun and would recommend it if you like a bit of adventure!

Pobbles East is also within 5min walk of the main three cliffs climbing area and has some fun routes to try.

Under milk wood is on the list!

I can't remember the times, but remember we found that the quickest way post-high-tide to get to the 3 Cliffs routes was to scramble down the traverse route (given Diff I think but easier than that), then a bit of wading gets to the seaward side of the arch.

It was veeeeeeeery wet when I was there the other week. The bottom half is under water at high tide and I think it needs a period of dry weather to not be dripping. 

I think there's a heat wave on the way!

Went to have a look at The Assassin and it looks great, but it didn't feel right to climb with an inexperienced partner. Then went to 3 cliffs bay and did Arch Slab and Scavenger which was amazing. I'll definitely be there again some day!

Cheers for the suggestions!