UKC

Grading rainbow feet at walls

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 David Coley 01 Apr 2021

Hi, 

I have a post on the walls and training forum about the possibility of encouraging a more outdoor style of climbing at walls, for those that might like to. By this I mean many more foot holds than hand holds. A quick zero cost possibility would be to just grade a route as normal with a second grade in brackets to indicate "with rainbow feet". E.g. 6b+(6a).

Of course one can just climb like this already without the extra information, but I wonder if people might like this information, and if the information was provided such rainbowing might prove quite popular. 

It has been pointed out to me that a training forum might not be the best place to reach those most likely to use this information, so I'm posting this here as a pointer to those that don't monitor that forum, but might like to comment:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/walls+training/rainbow_feet-732594

Thanks.

 gethin_allen 01 Apr 2021
In reply to David Coley:

Some walls have grades for features for feet and only holds for feet, this is similar to what you're proposing but only works for feature walls. 

In reply to David Coley:

Given that it would effectively double the number of routes on the wall and potentially extend the time period between re-routesetting (cheaper for the wall) it's daft that it's not done already.  We did it at our local wall only we really used - holds + features (hands and feet), holds only (hands and feet), holds for hands and features for feet.

 climbingpixie 01 Apr 2021
In reply to David Coley:

I'm struggling to see the point of this thread. The other one was posted in walls and training, which is the most appropriate place for it. It seems like you're just trying to drum up extra respondents because almost everyone has disagreed with you.

 john arran 01 Apr 2021
In reply to climbingpixie:

> I'm struggling to see the point of this thread. The other one was posted in walls and training, which is the most appropriate place for it. It seems like you're just trying to drum up extra respondents because almost everyone has disagreed with you.

That's the way confirmation bias works. If you don't get the feedback you want to hear, you keep looking somewhere else, until you find people that tell you what you're wanting to hear. 

Then you can be sure you're right because people agree with you.

 David Coley 01 Apr 2021
In reply to john arran:

I might be wrong, but I think confirmation bias normally arises from those that draw a narrow net. I'm trying to do the opposite. 

 David Coley 01 Apr 2021
In reply to climbingpixie:

I'm more than happy for people to disagree. For two reasons 

1.I might be wrong. In that, there are some good strong reasons not to give this information. That is after all the reason I asked.

2. I'm not after most people agreeing. I'm pondering if there is a minority who might like this extra info. Bit like sushi. Not everyone eats it every week, but still a multi million dollar business.

 Fishmate 01 Apr 2021
In reply to David Coley:

> I might be wrong, but I think confirmation bias normally arises from those that draw a narrow net. I'm trying to do the opposite. 


No, confirmation is not dependent on 'drawing a narrow net' to occur. John's usage looks fine...

 flaneur 02 Apr 2021

Moderators, can this thread be moved to Walls & Training please?

 Michael Gordon 02 Apr 2021
In reply to David Coley:

I'm not sure I see the point. You can do this already, accepting that it may make the routes slightly easier. It wouldn't often be by 3 grades I wouldn't think. Maybe 1 grade and sometimes it wouldn't make any difference at all. But it would surely need enough folk wanting to climb routes like that (and there can't be many?) to justify its implementation and potential for confusion.

 DaveHK 02 Apr 2021
In reply to David Coley:

Rainbow feet=weak.

 David Coley 02 Apr 2021
In reply to Michael Gordon:

> But it would surely need enough folk wanting to climb routes like that (and there can't be many?) to justify its implementation and potential for confusion.

You have hit the nail on the head. Hence my suggestion of an experiment on part of a wall, for 3 months, then a quick ask around to see if people use the routes, like the routes, would like the idea continued 


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