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Hard Peak Sport pop quiz!

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Here's one for the wads. In Scarpa's little video introducing the Quantic shoe youtube.com/watch?v=jkyr1WedqdI& where are they climbing (bouldering and a route or routes) in the opening shots? I'm pretty certain it's somewhere in Cheedale, but because 99% of the routes there are too hard for me, I don't know which crag it is, or what route or routes they are doing - they look bloomin' hard though.

The grit at the end that the chap climbs is Not to be Taken Away (f6C) - I know that one even if I'm too scared to have tried bouldering very far up it, but I don't recognise the problem that the woman is climbing - anyone recognise that one?

Cheers all.

 ianstevens 15 May 2022
In reply to TobyA:

Water-cum-Jolly? - I think the route is Rubicon (7a)

Not sure on the middle boulder, but given the other two are at Plantation I'd guess something there? The last one is Help the Young (f7A+)

Post edited at 11:11
In reply to ianstevens:

Cheers Ian, I thought the little bridge they walk across at the start made somewhere further down stream from all the main Cheedale cliffs seem likely.

As long as everyone else agrees with you, consider yourself granted honourary wad status.

 remus Global Crag Moderator 15 May 2022
In reply to TobyA:

Yeah it's Rubicon area at WCJ at the start. Routes/problems In order of appearance:

  • Rubicon 7a
  • Kudos 7B
  • A Millers Tale Start 6B (?)
  • ?
  • Not to be taken away 6C
  • Steep traverse 6C
  • Not to be taken away (again)
  • Help the young (jump start version) 7A+
In reply to TobyA:

First route is Rubicon (7a), first Boulder is Kudos (f7B), next is A Miller's Tale Start (f6B+). Not sure about the next sport climb that Sam is on.

In reply to remus and James:

Cheers chaps. I'm writing up a review of the Quantics currently, Scarpa UK seem to be suggesting they are a bit of mid-grade all-rounder kind of shoe, and in the video about them that UKC's Rob G did with Glyn from Scarpa last year, they talk about the shoe being good for Sev to E3, and have some discussion about while the heel being OK, it's not really a shoe for people doing lots of hardcore heel hooking. So I was sort of amused in the video that Scarpa immediately show the two climbers (who I'm sure are both really good climbers and climb that stylishly in all sorts of shoes) doing what to me looks like really hard and techy heel hooks in the Quantic!

I occasionally counter balance with heel when, say, clipping on my 6as - and have found the Quantic heel perfectly good for that, but I thought from the vid the climbers show that if you're good enough the shoes will get you up some pretty hard routes!

Post edited at 13:17
In reply to TobyA:

I’m not sure who the lady is, but Sam is certainly very good (owner of the climbing works).

Also can’t comment on the grit problems as I’ve not tried them, but the heel hooks on Rubicon are very good. I think The heel on kudos is smaller but certainly nothing too specialist from memory.

In reply to James Malloch:

I agree, you could get away with good fitting wellies on the heel hook at the start of kudos!

In reply to TobyA:

Hi Toby, 

So the missing part (the route sam is on after miller's tale) I think is Salar (8a)

Happy to be proven wrong of course !

In reply to James Malloch:

> I’m not sure who the lady is, but Sam is certainly very good (owner of the climbing works).

Oh, is it Sam Whitaker? Not that I know him, but I've seen enough photos in mags back in the day, Appointment with Death etc. that I should have recognised him! Yeah, I bet the heel design of his shoes probably don't matter too much on what for him is probably mid-grade stuff!

In reply to TobyA:

Yep - nicest guy you’ll ever meet!


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