UKC

BACKGROUND AND DISCLAIMERS

A few days ago I set up an online survey asking why people do or do not wear a helmet for leading or belaying while sport climbing and posted on UKC to ask for respondents. Here is a discussion of the results of the survey. Many thanks to those who took the time to complete the survey.

A few disclaimers: No doubt as a survey it could have been improved in various ways. I set up the survey in 20 minutes as a bit of fun over morning coffee. It is not part of any research project. I posted the survey purely out of interest to find out more about what people think and have an interesting, friendly discussion. I am not on a mission to advocate more, less or different helmet wearing. I’m not trying to change any policies. I think it should be down to the individual to make their own decisions on whether or when to wear a helmet. In my own case, I wear a helmet for sport climbing sometimes, and more for belaying than leading (I mainly sport climb in Cheddar in the 7s, and fall zones tend to be good but lots of small rocks coming raining down). I’ll also tend to get it out if climbing with beginners or if I am multipitching. But wherever I feel the risks are low I prefer to lead sport without a helmet.

SUMMARY AND DISCUSSION OF RESULTS

The sample is biased in that nothing like 34% of the people out sport climbing wear helmets, so the pro-helmet (and especially helmet always group) is represented disproportionately. This is related to the bias of self-selection: those responding feel strongly enough to complete an online survey might have different views from those who wouldn’t bother with a survey.

The reasons given for wearing a helmet for sport climbing mainly focused on risk of rock fall, risk of dangerous climbing falls and knowledge or experience of incidents where helmets did or would have protected. The reasons given for not wearing a helmet for sport climbing overwhelmingly focused on low risk and the greater enjoyment and comfort of not wearing a helmet.

The question remains as to whether helmet wearing is actually shaped to a much greater extent by conformity than indicated by the respondents: in other words, the rational reasons given may be sincerely held but may actually be rationalisations. If those around you generally don’t wear a helmet you are liable to construct reasons for why fitting in makes sense. As wearing a helmet for sport climbing is against the general norm (though not against the norm of some sub-groups), helmet wearers might be acting more on conscious choice. Alternatively, it may simply be as reported by the respondents: helmet wearing may simply be indexed accurately to the degree of risk aversion/acceptance and the risk calculation of the individuals concerned.

When people answered always or never, that will encompass absolutely always/never through to always/never being closer to what people do than sometimes.

The survey did not distinguish explicitly between belaying and leading (or indeed seconding). Some of the answers apply to both, though some do not. That would have been a useful angle to pursue.

My guess would be that those sport climbing in 4s, 5s and 6s would be more likely to wear a helmet, with this related to the kind of less steep, more ledgy, looser terrain they climb on. But I didn’t include a question in the survey to explore this angle.

FULL RESULTS

The survey had 100 respondents (just over that actually, but the free version of online survey tool limits you to 100 responses).
Q: How often do you wear a helmet to lead or belay while sport climbing?
48% Sometimes
34% Always
18% Never

Q: If you wear a helmet for leading or belaying while sport climbing, why do you do so? Choose as many reasons as applicable.
87% Risk of rock fall
64% Risk of inverted fall
37% For multi-pitch climbing
35% Modern helmets are light and comfortable
34% Not wearing a helmet is a pointless risk
30% Risk of ground fall
25% Have experienced/witnessed an incident in which a helmet did protect/would have protected
17% Have been told about an incident in which a helmet did protect/would have protected
13% Standard procedure with youth groups
11% The people around me generally wear helmets
11% Other (please specify) [Comments not covered by the preceding options included risk of swinging falls and other falls e.g. onto ledges; risk of leader dropping things on the belayer; setting an example to beginners]

Q If you do not wear a helmet for leading or belaying while sport climbing, why not? Choose as many reasons as applicable
90% Low risk (e.g. of rock fall, inverted fall, ground fall; single pitch)
54% Climbing without a helmet is more enjoyable
43% Helmets are uncomfortable
21% Climbing with a helmet impedes my performance
20% Helmets don't protect you from big rocks
16% Not witnessed any incidents in which a helmet did protect/would have protected
15% People around me don't generally wear helmets
12% Not been told about any incidents in which a helmet did protect/would have protected
10% Other (please specify) ) [Comments not covered by the preceding options included forgetting it and not thinking about it]
8% I would take increased risks (e.g. be less vigilant about rock fall) that would cancel out the value of a helmet
7% Helmets are uncool

Bump for the daytime crew...

In reply to eric_in_cheddar:

Thanks for the information. At first glance it seems to show most climbers are pretty sensible risk assessors. Trouble is I suspect a fair few are not on both sides. I still don't understand the logic some climbers use to justify always wearing a helmet. I also suspect fashion and uncool plays more of a part in those not wearing one than some in your survey would like to admit (it's standard psychology for us all to try and rationalise our own bullshit).

In reply to Offwidth:

Yup, and culture (or habitus in Bourdieusian terms) too is rationalised.

In reply to eric_in_cheddar: I know you acknowledge this but I suspect this survey is very, very biased.

I am one of the many people who would have answered "Never", had I not been too lazy to respond to the survey.

In reply to Richard Hall:

I am one of the many people who would have answered "Always", had I not been too lazy to respond to the survey

In reply to Offwidth:

Why not? I always wear one, for extremely logical reasons. Many people never wear one, for equally logical reasons.

In reply to Richard Hall:

There is no doubt that the survey is very biased in terms of the ratios of respondents between always, sometimes and never - a glance at any sport crag will tell us that. The always are wildly over-represented and the sometimes are heavily overrepresented too. The nevers will mostly not bother with a survey like this. So, as long as no-one draws any conclusions about the actual ratio from this survey that's fine.

The question is whether the rest of the survey elicits any useful information. Of course that is up for discussion. My sense is that it reveals some information about what people say about why they do what they do. I am much more sceptical that what people do is actually due to the reasons they give.

I won't be posting again until maybe this evening, as I am off sport climbing this afternoon in Cheddar (fwiw not wearing a helmet while leading as the route is steep, wearing a helmet to belay as there is some distinctly loose rock above).

In reply to eric_in_cheddar:

I'd be interested to see if there is a correlation between sports grade climbed and likelihood of wearing a helmet eg. chossy ledgey 6a or 6b sensible to wear a helmet, overhanging 8a no point.

Also whether people wearing a helmet consider sports climbing as their 'main' climbing activity.

Just because when I do see people sports climbing wearing helmets, they tend to be climbing low grades, and I think also tend to be principally trad climbers who are 'dabbling'. I've never seen someone on a route from about say 7b and up wearing a helmet.

No grade snobbery here (I'm not in a position to be a grade snob!) - just an observation.

In reply to RockSteady:

Yes, I agree and put in the analysis bit this: "My guess would be that those sport climbing in 4s, 5s and 6s would be more likely to wear a helmet, with this related to the kind of less steep, more ledgy, looser terrain they climb on. But I didn’t include a question in the survey to explore this angle." But there is lots of text there so easy to miss it.

Right, I really am off climbing now...

Which sport crag will you glance at? A loose, choosy quarry of mainly F4-F6a filled with instructed groups will tell you a different picture from, say, the Grande Grotte. It's tempting to think about the crags *you* frequent most and perceive that as close to the norm, unless you make a deliberate effort not to.


Agreed.

I'm astonished that 'because it's uncool' was the least common reason given for not wearing a helmet, and I'm fairly confident that a lot of people are lying to themselves, and to your survey, about their reasons. Can't prove it though! Maybe it's like when your GP asks you how many units of alcohol you drink per week. You give your answer and s/he doubles it.

I wear a helmet almost always when climbing, mainly because I can't think of a good enough reason not to. I would also feel a bit silly explaining to my mum why I had a head injury that might have been prevented by the helmet sitting on top of my rucksack. Strangely, I don't wear one while skiing. Go figure. I think it's because they weren't common when I started, but I'm now in a
minority.

That led me to another thought. Age. I guess there is a strong correlation between age, and helmet usage. The climbers I know who don't wear helmets tend to be older. (They're also the ones who are happier to drink-drive.)

I remember being at a sport crag once when a guy turned up to take some photos for a new guide. I was going to lead a route he wanted to photograph, so we discussed setting up the shot - where he'd be etc., and he asked me to change my clothing (white T shirt against limestone doesn't stand out very well). Suddenly, I found myself offering to climb without a helmet, just to improve the photograph. Eventually, I realised my folly and kept my hat on. But I surprised myself that I was willing to abandon my principles for the sake of vanity.

In reply to Toreador:

Read what I said again.

In reply to Richard Alderton:

I covered all of this: "My guess would be that those sport climbing in 4s, 5s and 6s would be more likely to wear a helmet, with this related to the kind of less steep, more ledgy, looser terrain they climb on." I also pointed out that I tend to frequent Cheddar most and hence usually wear a helmet for belaying there. Despite all of the looseness, most still do not wear helmets for belaying or leading. Of course, my comment did not cover absolutely every sport crag but I'd be amazed if it didn't cover the vast majority.

The survey also covered the issue of guided groups and some did indeed specify that. I didn't feel the need to restate it in my comments.

As for age, the survey didn't cover that. Would be interesting to know that. My impression is that there isn't much of an age correlation. I think a stronger correlation is that those who usually trad climb in lower grades and who don't sport climb much are particularly likely to wear helmets.

In reply to Offwidth:

Done that. Now what?