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Horseshoe

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 steveb2006 12 May 2020

This from a friend who does deliveries out in the Peak - today - Tuesday 12th...

'Lots of cars outside horseshoe today!'

So it seems lots of climbers cant wait ome more day before all flocking to the same crag. !!   *****

2
 TobyA 12 May 2020
In reply to steveb2006:

They would have got rained on at lunchtime too! It is a big place though, so probably one of the easier crags for teams stay apart from each other at. You can probably argue that low to mid grade sport climbing is "safe-ish" too so less likely to need MRT/ambulance than say Stanage. I'm not sure that's convincing myself but I can see why some people might think that way.

2
 ebdon 12 May 2020
In reply to steveb2006:

Christ, over a month of no climbing and people choose to vist horseshoe for there first trip outside. I thought covid was bad but this is appalling news. Have people no sense of aesthetic?

4
 Luke90 12 May 2020
In reply to ebdon:

Well, we all know enjoying yourself too much at a time like this is a bit sinful. Choosing Horseshoe as a destination is probably a good way of keeping pleasure suitably restricted.

1
 olddirtydoggy 12 May 2020
In reply to steveb2006:

I'm happy for them all to pile into Horseshoe, I'll never go there again after the first time.

2
 raussmf 13 May 2020
In reply to steveb2006:

never had the pleasure...whats SO bad about it?

 robert-hutton 13 May 2020
In reply to raussmf:

> never had the pleasure...whats SO bad about it?

It's not bad, in fact on the main wall some of the routes are great, it's just the crap parts have been developed so brings the whole place down.

 Iamgregp 13 May 2020
In reply to raussmf:

I'm intrigued too, very few people seem to rate it!

 olddirtydoggy 13 May 2020
In reply to Iamgregp:

Go have a look and report back. Once was enough for me but then again I don't like sport climbing and the other trad crags near by are more to my taste. You might enjoy it.

2
In reply to Iamgregp:

There are some good routes at Horseshoe as well as some chossy ones. The main wall has the better routes but unfortunately they are now very polished. 

 TobyA 13 May 2020
In reply to raussmf:

> never had the pleasure...whats SO bad about it?

It's a very big old quarry with all that entails. There are some areas of iffy rock that got routes all the same, but big sections are stable. It used to have a rep for bad bolting, probably the majority of the routes are on sections owned by the BMC and their massive rock stabilization and reequipping effort a few years ago mean that reputations is undeserved now - in those areas. In the non-BMC sectors you might still find some slightly suspicious looking bolts, bolts that don't feel like they are in the right place for maximum risk reduction or even things like a bolt stub with no hanger on it. But like I said the majority of routes have modern equipment in them are well bolted.

If you climb in the 7s and above, then, sure, make fun of Horseshoe and it's climbing wall newbies getting scared on their first outdoor routes and doing all sorts of bizarre things that they think they saw on a Youtube how-to vid. Or its Severe-punters who have come down from Froggatt for a day to try and 'send' a 6a (that would be me then), they've probably got hexes in their rucksacks still! Ha ha. But the truth is that generally English inland-limestone is a bit, if we're being completely honest, shit - at least when close up, and not when seen as sweeping geographical features. Horseshoe just has that conveniently all in one place and conveniently well bolted.

3
 Andypeak 13 May 2020
In reply to ebdon:

At least the virus won't be able to stick to the holds

 Urban5teve 13 May 2020
In reply to raussmf:

It's a quarry so the views are not particularly inspiring. The climbing's ok though. Loads of 5 and 6's with a couple of 7's for those that climb that level and are looking to progress. There's a lot to go at, probs over 100 routes and the ground is relatively flat. Easily accessible and since BMC's re-bolt campaign, it is relatively safe for the people who like to potter and not take risks on the same level as others.

I've been a few times and have always enjoyed myself and its a great place to take friends who are just getting into it

You know what the climbing community can be like, though: If your not doing what I'm doing; you're s**t and so's ya mum. Standard judgemental snobbery.

You know what they say - The best climber is the one having the most fun - so live and let live IMO.

OP steveb2006 13 May 2020
In reply to Iamgregp:

As others have said the MaIn wall routes are pretty good if you are into 6b+ to 6c+ with one or two good routes from 6a+.  And you can officially (?) claimb on it now .   

The rest is pretty so-so - The easy slabs at the back are popular - as they are easy.

 Iamgregp 13 May 2020
In reply to steveb2006:

I'll certainly check it out, I'm London based so it's bit of a trek for a day trip but will certainly try and go if I'm in the area or passing - there's precious little easy to mid grade sport in the uk so I'd be a fool not to have a look!

In reply to Iamgregp:

I like Horseshoe but I wouldn't travel from London for it!

When life returns to normal head to Portland or Swanage. Some superb bolted bits of rock there, Loads of easy stuff.  Hedbury Has a 1, 2 & a 3! (and loads of 5s + 6s!)

 Iamgregp 13 May 2020
In reply to Euan McKendrick:

Agreed there's some pretty good stuff around Swanage - I've been to Winspit a couple of times and Hedbury once.  I really want to go back to Hedbury, got totally shut down on Moves for the Masses (6a+) so as that was a couple opf years back I'd like to go back and see how I get on now!

Never been much of a fan of Portland, I know some people love it, I've just never had a good day there...

 ebdon 13 May 2020

I cant believe this defense of horseshoe, everybody knows climbing here is worse then openly defeicating in the supermarket que during OAP hour. To explain to the haterz I have prepared the following venn diagram:


7
 Iamgregp 13 May 2020
In reply to ebdon:

Best use of photo uploads function so far! 

 ebdon 13 May 2020
In reply to Iamgregp:

Well worth my ukc supporters fee

I really should work on my effectiveness working from home 

 Chris Murray 13 May 2020
In reply to steveb2006:

Drove past today on my way to a nearby limestone trad crag that was once, apparently, a pretty big deal in these parts. There were about half a dozen cars parked at 10am, less than I thought there might be...still, keeps them off Stoney..

 TobyA 13 May 2020
In reply to Chris Murray:

> ...still, keeps them off Stoney..

Nope, Stoney being Stoney keeps them off Stoney.

I secretly love Stoney - indeed my first trad route of 2020 (3rd Jan) was there - see photo - although I had actually gone and done some routes at Horseshoe on New Years Day!


 Peakphil 14 May 2020
In reply to steveb2006:

There were 6 cars parked there last Sunday when I cycled past on my daily excercise!

1
 Anotherclimber 14 May 2020
In reply to ebdon:

Why did you bother wasting your time. You must have had something better to do.

In reply to TobyA:

> I secretly love Stoney - indeed my first trad route of 2020 (3rd Jan) was there - see photo - although I had actually gone and done some routes at Horseshoe on New Years Day!

Funnily enough I'm writing a destination article to stoney and find it hard not to be a little tongue in cheek about it, because I too love it - I'm just never sure quite why! The first line of the article currently reads: Stoney Middleton is a crag that people love to hate, or just hate.

I think that's fair...

1
 Tom Valentine 14 May 2020
In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

"A rock-climber's apocalyptic vision of the wasteland".

 TobyA 14 May 2020
In reply to Tom Valentine:

> "A rock-climber's apocalyptic vision of the wasteland".

Although the village has to be among the most ridiculously picturesque villages in the UK!

Or are you talking about Horseshoe?

By the way, any one who thinks Horseshoe is dodgy should go and try climbing at Intake Quarry and then get back to us.

In reply to Tom Valentine:

Curiously I'm not quite as down on Horseshoe as some are too, as I genuinely think those routes on the Main Wall are quite good. It's also quite a remarkable site for butterflies, so in its own weird and wonderful way can be quite beautiful (whilst simultaneously looking like a nuclear testing facility).

 ChrisBrooke 14 May 2020
In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

There is much grimness to be found there, but also some fantastic climbing. The E2s off Windy Ledge were (while I still climbed) some of my favourite Peak Limestone climbs: Scoop Wall (E2 5c)Armageddon (E2 5c)The Flakes Direct (E2 5c) Alcasan (E2 5c)etc.  Fantastic routes in a beautiful setting! If there's a bit less traffic at the moment, and so less noise, it's a lovely view as you can barely see the main road below through the trees. 

Thumbs up for Stoney!

I'll also give a thumbs up for Horseshoe. The main wall at least (not climbed on the famously rubbish other bits). From 6B - 6C+ there are some good routes, if a little scary. I remember enjoying Private Prosecution (6c) but finding the bolting a bit spaced, but I am a big scaredy cat.

 Jon Stewart 14 May 2020
In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

> Curiously I'm not quite as down on Horseshoe as some are too 

It's got a good owl. 

 Stoney Boy 14 May 2020
In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

Dont forget the famous quote Rob.

" When a man is tired of Stoney, he is tired of life "

In reply to Stoney Boy:

I don't care whether or not that's a real quote or not - it's going in the destination article

In reply to ChrisBrooke:

> There is much grimness to be found there, but also some fantastic climbing. The E2s off Windy Ledge were (while I still climbed) some of my favourite Peak Limestone climbs: Scoop Wall (E2 5c)Armageddon (E2 5c)The Flakes Direct (E2 5c) Alcasan (E2 5c)etc.  Fantastic routes in a beautiful setting! If there's a bit less traffic at the moment, and so less noise, it's a lovely view as you can barely see the main road below through the trees. 

Funnily enough I've outlined all the classic E2s within the article, because they're just so good - one of the best grades at the crag. The other is undoubtedly E4, as there's tonnes of them and the quality is consistently high (or at least it is amongst the starred ones - there's also some absolute dross!).

 Martin Haworth 14 May 2020
In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

> Funnily enough I've outlined all the classic E2s within the article, because they're just so good - one of the best grades at the crag. The other is undoubtedly E4, as there's tonnes of them and the quality is consistently high (or at least it is amongst the starred ones - there's also some absolute dross!).

Dross! is that a typo, the route is actually called Choss (E1 5b). Stoney is great, always the warmest crag in the Peak, no crowds, beautiful setting, and great routes.Pendulum, Windhover,Mani, Scoop Wall, Helicon...some of my favourite climbs.

 TonyB 14 May 2020
In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

>  I genuinely think those routes on the Main Wall are quite good. 

I also think the routes on the main wall are quite good. I can see why people don't like them though. I think if you go when the wall is in full sun then they can be pretty horrid, but at other times it's great. I also find that the climbing isn't always so obvious, most are at a grade where I would expect to onsight, and for some reason I find onsighting there more demanding than say Portland.  

 TobyA 14 May 2020
In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

Have you got the easier routes in at Stoney? - Some of them are pretty good too. I did Sin (VS 4c) on a boiling July day a few years ago and thought it was good fun. Green Crack (VS 4c) and Parachute (VS 4b) I remember enjoying too. 

 FBSF 15 May 2020

I heard Horseshoe was rammed yesterday...…..was at Stoney last night, one guy bouldering and we had the entire crag to ourselves

 Graeme Hammond 15 May 2020
In reply to TobyA:

> Have you got the easier routes in at Stoney?

Don't forget Fingal's Flue (HS 3c) best done at night then it just appears like you are climbing into the centre of the earth

 deacondeacon 15 May 2020
In reply to Graeme Hammond:

Haha. What a route!! 

 Brown 15 May 2020
In reply to Graeme Hammond:

Fingal's Cave (HVS 5a) is also very good but quite serious for the grade!

I've also climbed Fingal's Flue both with and without a head torch. I'd personally argue that a head torch counts as a point of aid.

Personally I love Stoney. For years my climbing mojo lived there. If I was jaded, a trip to Stoney would re-vitalise my psych.

E4/5 is Stoneys mega grade with so many great routes...

Oliver (E4 6a)Millionaire Touch (E4 6b)Traffic Jam (E5 6b)Wee Doris (E4 5c)Pickpocket (E4 6a)Bitterfingers (E4 6a)Circe (E5 6b) and Our Father (E4 6b).

That is a density of medium hard trad limestone unavailable anywhere else (except Pembroke)  

In reply to TobyA:

I started writing an answer to this, then completely changed my mind about the approach I was going to take in light of your feedback.

My original answer was going to be something along the lines of "whilst they do get a mention I wasn't going to go into as much detail, as they're simply not as classic", but having consulted both the guidebooks and my memory I think that whilst this is potentially quite fair (they're probably not as classic) it isn't the right conclusion given that there's a fair few of them that are actually quite good - hence are worth bringing attention to.

Final's Flue will get a very distinct mention due to its unique nature too.

p.s. apologies to the OP, as I appear to have de-railed this thread into becoming the Stoney Middleton Appreciation Society instead

Post edited at 09:24
 193 15 May 2020
In reply to deacondeacon:

Horseshoe quarry is derided by many as a matter of course , initially some of  the routes were bold even slightly serious , bolts supplementing with peg and nut protection giving grades of E5 and E6 . I was sent a topo of it during its development by a mate , well drawn I might add , I was in Arapiles at the time on an extended trip . I didn't rush back . 

It is a very reliable place in the winter and I climbed there quite a bit this year when people were going inside,  the sun was present on several of those visits .This meant my impression of last winter differed from many . Admittedly it is the main wall that is the main attraction , the rock quality on this sector being about superior to most of the areas quarried rock , some of which is appalling bordering on dangerous , My proximity to it helps . Why not go on grit instead , we did but it was a windy winter . 

There is an issue to my mind however and that is the signage or lack of it , here is my reasoning  Many visiting climbers know it belongs to the BMC , well that is only partially the case , These visitors know of the rebolting and debolting by the BMC . They assume that if a route is bolted it is ok  to climb . Here I ask the question,  is that the case on none BMC owned parts , did they get checked , if not surely a notice to this effect should be posted when leaving BMC parts of the quarries . I am not  a person who likes signs and prescriptive notices ( climbing when I started was not main stream and was slightly anarchic , but think this is an exception . I have seen some big blocks come of the long slab , very popular routes in the corner , and when I asked climbers on occasion they were un aware of the difference in ownership . 

Im happy to be put right if a full survey was carried out 

 193 15 May 2020
In reply to steveb2006:

The list of poor routes at Stoney is far shorter than the great ones . 

Sadly many are neglected and overgrown , others are difficult to access so see much less traffic than they deserve ,  4 minute tiler , Colonel Bogey etc ,  the Moon when it reopens should be supported as they are welcoming of climbers , and the garage owner , who owns said buttress is supportive of climbers .

 TobyA 15 May 2020
In reply to Graeme Hammond:

I haven't done it, but will have to now! I quite like the diff (IIRC) that you can use as a descent - that also goes down (or up) a deep crevice. The tunnel through to Windy Ledge is great fun with kids if you have some spare head lamps and perhaps helmets!

 GravitySucks 15 May 2020
In reply to TobyA:

Let us not forget 'Tiger Trot (VDiff)' - a thirty foot traverse starting from the end of Windy ledge with a world of exposure from move one Thirty five years ago I got the pleasure of the lead when my fellow aspirants both bottled it, a trouser filling memory !

 Brown 15 May 2020
In reply to GravitySucks:

Doing the windy ledge loop through the cave (no head torch) and back across the traverse is a great trip.

 Michael Hood 15 May 2020
In reply to TobyA:

I thought the whole point of the tunnel through was torch not allowed 😎

I think the descent you're talking about is Mineshaft (M), only Mod but great fun either up or down.

As said by others, Tiger Trot (VD) is also brilliant for such easy trad limestone.

 raussmf 26 May 2020
In reply to steveb2006:

Went to Horsehsoe at the weekend finally...I get it now, does look like a nuke has gone off but nice climbing generally. Stuck to some very easy routes as was teaching / refreshing my partner how to lead belay.


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