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Ideas for northwales mountains days out?

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 Kemics 12 Jan 2022

I'm off to Llanberis this weekend, the weather is looking to be too rainy for trad climbing and too warm for winter climbing, so aiming to do some soggy mountain enchainments/scrambles. 

I've never done any scrambling so I was thinking about doing some of the classics. We've got two days so I was thinking of 

1. The Bochlwyd Horseshoe (is there a logical way of tagging on Cneifion Arete to the loop?) 

2. Parsons nose/arete then reversing grib coch? 

If you had a couple of days to cherry pick some classics, are there any others I should consider? Happy to add some easy pitches of climbing up to severe ish. 

1
In reply to Kemics:

Do the bochlwyd in reverse starting with cneifion arete, down bristly ridge, up south ridge of tryfan, down North ridge.

A bit of a drive from Llanberis but cyfrwy arete is ace.

Post edited at 22:14
In reply to Kemics:

Parsons nose/clowgwyn y person/crib goch is a good logical round. Also in those parts Gambit Climb is great and goes alright in the wet after a slightly precarious feeling first pitch.

Wrinkled tower/notch arete on the west face of tryfan is a good linkup, although wrinkled tower might be a bit scary when damp. Chasm face and dolmen ridge on glyder fach are both really good too.

In reply to Kemics:

Snakes and Ladders through the slate quarry is a good day out and can be done pretty easily in wet conditions. 

There's a good write up here: https://davetalbot.net/wp-content/cache/all/snakes-and-ladders/index.html  

 kaiser 13 Jan 2022
In reply to Kemics:

How about:

Milestone Buttress Approach (3)

then over the shoulder of the N ridge to the heather terrace

Nor Nor Buttress (3S)

Straight over and down Notch gully to come back up 

Notch Arete (3)

then perhaps over Tryfan summit and up what may be an icy Bristly Ridge.

That's a good summer day out for me but it sounds like you've got the winter skills to cope

 maxsmith 13 Jan 2022
In reply to Kemics:

Snowdonia is amazing for scrambling, particularly the Ogwen valley where it's possible to tick 20+ scrambles in a day.

As above I'd recommend doing the Bochlwyd horseshoe in reverse as this allows you to start on the Idwal Slabs (Idwal Staircase or Idwal Buttress), pick a route in Cwm Cneifion (Cneifion arete or Tower Rib) then scramble down the False Gribin and do a route on Glyder Fach (Dolmen Ridge or Chasm Face would be my recommendations) then you can descend bristly ridge and go up and over Tryfan to finish.

Most of the linkups on Snowdon are more contrived but your choice of Parson's nose and Crib goch is a good one...I think there's a scramble on the approach to the Parson's nose in the updated Scrambles in Snowdonia guide so you could always add that in?

Have fun

OP Kemics 14 Jan 2022
In reply to Gazmataz:

Yes, i've done snakes and ladders but definitely worth a repeat. Makes a great contrast to the mountains. 

In reply to Maxsmith:

thanks mate, some ideas for a big day out. I havnt got any guidebooks for scrambling. All my northwales books are for trad climbing. I've used to have a book called Scrambles and Easy climbs in snowdonia ... or something like that but cant find it since having moved house 2 months ago! I'm off to buy a guidebook tomorrow, was going to go for North Wales Scrambles (2nd Edition) (the one with the white cover). Any other books you'd recommend?  

 C Witter 14 Jan 2022
In reply to Kemics:

Given your confidence and climbing grades, a good start to the Bochlwyd Horseshoe might be The Wrinkled Tower (grade 3). It's a fun, romping and surprisingly exciting way up onto the North Ridge. Plus, you can avoid some of the difficulties if it's really wet. I wouldn't bother if it's actively raining, though. The BH is great fun and you should be able to get round and up Cneifion Arete if you're fit and confident.

1
In reply to Kemics:

The Snowdonia mountain walks and climbs is the best book for scrambles in the area imo, (apart from being too big!). Nice clear route diagrams.

The mostly text descriptions in North Wales Scrambles don't really work for me, I like to have a visual route in my head. YMMV. The little cicerone guide is alright but I wouldn't buy it over the other two.

In reply to midgen:

Ive got four or five scrambling guidebooks, i'd say the new rockfax one is the best. Clear pictures and descriptions and laid out in a way that makes link ups easy.

Post edited at 08:06
In reply to Alex Riley:

Yes that's the one, Snowdonia Mountain Walks and Scrambles. I wish I'd bought this one first tbh, I wouldn't have bothered with the others!

 maxsmith 14 Jan 2022
In reply to Kemics:

No problem, I can only recommend the ones I own which are North Wales Scrambles and an old edition of Scrambles in Snowdonia. To be honest there are tons of guides out there now and they all seem to have similar routes in them so you won't go far wrong whatever you buy.  Good luck and stay safe

 CurlyStevo 14 Jan 2022
In reply to Kemics:

"Parsons nose/arete then reversing grib coch?" 
This is one of the best scrambles I've done anywhere. Its superb. You could combine with something lower down like these although I've not done them https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/cyrn_las_gyrn_las-695/cwm_glas_mawr_approach-99562 and  https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/dinas_mot-699/jammed_boulder_gully-3290.

Tryfan north ridge is good. You can link that up any number of ways with scrambles on Glyder Fach then back down Y Grybin

Post edited at 10:16
In reply to CurlyStevo:

Cwm glas Mawr approach is definitely worthwhile if you're heading up to clogwyn y person. It's just to the right of the waterfall on the left hand side of Cyrn Las, so if you're walking in to the parsons nose or CyP you're going straight past it.

 Lrunner 14 Jan 2022
In reply to Kemics:

the weather's been mint for about 4 days and looks good for the weekend. I think if you go south facing you'll get something decent done. I suspect Trem would be lovely today.


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