UKC

Looking for ideas for European climbing destinations in July with a mix of grades?

In reply to marky:

I think you need to be rather more specific regarding what you're after, because currently the answer is "Europe"

In reply to Blue Straggler:

Sport climbing on good quality rock in nice surroundings with a mix of grades from 5 to 7b+ and with sun/shade options. 

In reply to marky:

Why restrict your horizons? Widen the search to 'Earth' and no doubt you'll get a much wider pile of suggestions. I like the fact you're open to all types of climbing whether it be ice, trad, mixed, dry tooling, sport, bouldering and have I missed any?

In reply to olddirtydoggy:

Aid, or are you including that as trad?
Speed climbing, or is that also a sort of trad (in that it tends to use protection even if it is an autobelay?)
Competition climbing (suppose covered by sport and bouldering and speed?)
DWS (form of bouldering though?)

In reply to marky:

Assuming you are in England, obviously Portland is the best choice. Amazing crags, lots of choices, great July weather and doesn't require flying! 

In reply to olddirtydoggy and Blue Straggler:

Might I suggest that if you don't have anything constructive to say then you refrain from posting? Your comments come across as quite belittling, extremely pedantic, and largely unnecessary - maybe try to be a little less hostile and a little more welcoming in future?

Yes, the OP could have been clearer, but it's pretty obvious that they're after ideas of places they don't know about - preferably in Europe - and (after their second post) have suggested a grade range.

Sadly I don't have a great deal of advice, as I tend to be UK based throughout that time of year; however, Ceuse is the classic option, but is probably more towards the upper limit of the grade range, as there isn't much in/around the low-mid 6s.

Hopefully others will have better advice. Good luck!

In reply to marky:

Sardinia will be too hot. Arco will be too hot. Spain will be too hot. South of France will be too hot. Kalymnos will be too hot. Most places will be too hot, you're going to need to be at altitude or in the north I think. Can't advise any more than that.

In reply to marky:

probably something in Norway too, though I've not done any sport climbing there

http://www.climb-europe.com/rockclimbingshop/Climb-Norway-Sport-Climbing-Gu...

In reply to marky:

Hi Mark,

I thought Briancon was one of the standard answers to that question - there's quite a few discussions on the other channel, haven't been myself.  Did climb in Morzine (northern alps) area last year and even in French heatwave I found OK climbing conditions, however wouldn't particularly suggest it for a pure climbing holiday, good if you want to mix mountain or road biking with some climbing.

In reply to marky:

A lot of European destinations are too hot in July although sometimes that can depend on the type of holiday you are after. I would avoid most of the France/Spain/Italy/Greece areas if you are after a full-on climb-every-day climbing holiday. If, however, you are on a family or leisurely trip then pick and area with some shade and you can get routes in with early starts or late finishes.

Our recent Destination article to Val Pennavaire is a great example. I have been there three times in July/August when it is too hot for a proper climbing holiday, but the non-climbing family members love it so much they keep wanting to go back.
https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/destinations/val_pennavaire_-_finale_li...

Lofoten makes a wonderful destination for July. Chris's article is a little old now but the basics are useful.
https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/destinations/lofoten_rock_-_norway-1819

Switzerland tends to be a good option.
https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/destinations/sport_climbing_in_switzerl...

We spent last summer in Otztal in Austria. No destination guide yet but some of it is on the Rockfax app. A lovely valley where you can combine valley sport with big mountain stuff, long hut walks, via Ferrata, road biking. #austriaisaplayground

Alan

In reply to Alan James - Rockfax:

Something wrong with the Frankenjura?

In reply to marky:I'm tempted to say SW Norway though you  may or may not get summer weather.  Car hire is pricey too.  

In reply to Ian Patterson:

Briancon is excellent. Went last year at that time of year and it was fine but too hot in the sun some days, There are enough shaded crags around though and lots of swimming available too.

In reply to jimtitt:

In July? Might be hot & humid (or might not). Routes at the lower end of the OP's grade range tend towards short, uninspiring & scarily bolted.

In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

Apologies to the OP, you are quite right. Posts can come across much worse than intended. I work in a very sarcastic enviroment where offense is rarely taken but I'm well aware that UKC forums are not my place of work. Feel free to delete the post. Good luck with finding a destination suitable.

In reply to olddirtydoggy:

No worries. I often think how different UKC might be if we were all sat in the same room. It's almost impossible to convey how things are actually meant online and sadly - as one of my favourite forms of wit (possibly because it's the lowest) - sarcasm comes off worst.

Really appreciate the reply anyhow

In reply to AlanLittle:

Portland?

In reply to marky:

My partner and I climbed in Sardinia last year (Dorgali, Cala Gonone) and managed to get a fair bit done in the mornings and evenings either side of beach time during the day (which is pretty easy, as many excellent crags are metres from the sea / beach). Grades were pretty amenable, too – plus there's some very easy multi-pitch right on the water. 

In reply to Alan James - Rockfax:

Well apart from this: https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/destinations/otztal_-_austrias_outdoor_...

Chris

In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

Rob.

My first post was entirely intended to be helpful and to fend off the far worse replies I thought that the OP was about to endure. Of course we'll never know what didn't get posted, but I think it was a job well done, necessary and actually constructive, as it prompted to OP to furnish a bit more detail. 
As for pedantry, at least I didn't mention that the OP ends with a question mark which means they may be about to OFFER SUGGESTIONS/RECOMMENDATIONS  

I elicited that second post from the OP! See above. 
We still don't know which locations they don't know about. 

My second post was simply a playful reply to "olddirtydoggy" but yes, I see now that I was complicitly joining in on a post by olddirtydoggy that COULD COME ACROSS as belittling, so it's a fair cop and point taken.

In reply to Chris Craggs:

Odd that. I thought we had one. We are doing some work on the destination map at the moment since it wasn't showing. There were a few problems TBH.

Alan

In reply to marky:

I did a bit of climbing in the Massif Central and Provence areas last summer but it very much wasn't a climbing holiday, and I had to climb fast before my family got bored. You can climb in Southern Europe when its hot, but it might not be optimal for full days (it was over 40 some of the days we were in the Provence - that's very hot!).

If the heat looks too much, consider going north - there is a lot of climbing in Sweden, from next to the bridge to Denmark to up in the Arctic. A mix of trad and sport but plenty of sport. I drove that way the other summer on the way to Finland - a day from Derbyshire down to Dover, crossed to Dunkirk camped in Belgium. Next day from Belgium to campsite outside Hamburg, the next day across Germany and Denmark and we camped in Sweden - but we were a family of five including two impatient teenagers and a at the time almost 1 year old so we had to stop more than adults trying to get somewhere would. It's worth a thought anyway for something a bit different. Sweden generally feels very calm and quiet compared to many parts of central Europe also, including the Alps.

In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

Which is why implementing smileys would make a huge difference to the forum!

In reply to marky:

There are quite a few higher lying - say above 1500m asl - in Switzerland and Austria that have both single pitch sport and bolted multipitches and sometimes bouldering. In Switzerland, Gastlosen, Sustenpass and Melchsee-Frutt come to mind as well as many others. In Austria, beyond Ötztal, Zillertal and Maltatal have a good selection if looking for granite, for limestone Muttekopfhütte in Tirol and Hofpürglhütte in Salzburg would fit the bill, and in Germany, Blaueishütte and the Alpspitz area for limestone. In the Dolomites, several of the high passes have good sport climbing as well - think of Frea, Valparola pass or Cinque torri. 

I did not mention hundred of others, but all of these suggestions should keep you busy for a week easily.

Good luck for the first intercontinental flight! 

In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

UKC does feel like being in a school class full of idiots making fun of everyone lately. All a bit mad

In reply to jimtitt:

But will it count as Europe from tomorrow?

In reply to climberclimber321:

70 seconds clicking on posts listed on your profile suggest that you are a greater part of this problem, at least on climbing-related topics, than (for example) I am