UKC

Kinder Routes Please

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 DrJP 03 May 2021

Hey folks,

Once this weather passes I'll be heading up Kinder way from Hayfield with a good friend who is 70 and used to be into his climbing and mountaineering.

Looking for some advice on routes between mod and VD to get him back into it. He's pretty fit. Couple of years ago we flew up little cham but he hasn't touched rock since due to illness.

Any suggestions from the UKC hive would be much appreciated.

Cheers 

 pec 03 May 2021
In reply to DrJP:

Zig Zag is the classic easy route of the Amphitheatre

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/kinder_downfall-134/zig-zag-19485

and of course there's always the Downfall Climb itself if you want a real adventure (think outdoor caving!)

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/kinder_downfall-134/downfall_climb...

 Chris Murray 03 May 2021
In reply to pec:

Yup. Zig Zag. One of my favourite Vdiffs.

 mrphilipoldham 03 May 2021
In reply to DrJP:

Personally my day out would go like this:

Walk in up the Kinder river

Grade 3 scramble of Arpeggio Gully

Walk around and down climb the chimney of Square Chimney Exit (or set up an abseil if preferred)

Zig Zag VDiff

Chockstone Chimney VDiff

Professors Chimney Diff (or direct, VDiff)

Downfall Climb Mod (if it’s dry enough)

Then either:

Classic VDiff

Royal HVDiff

or walk along to Upper Western Buttress:

South Wall VDiff

Spike Chimney Diff

..or all of them if you’re going well

Then a nice easy walk back down Sandy Heys, or William Clough for a well earned pint back in Hayfield!

Post edited at 22:13
 Graeme Hammond 03 May 2021
In reply to DrJP:

Unfortunately alot if the climbs around the downfall are restricted currently due to nesting birds. the Regional Access Database (RAD) has more information.

https://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/rad/view.aspx?id=553

1
 Offwidth 04 May 2021
In reply to DrJP:

Given the good weather has ended and the bird bans maybe try the southern edges. Start at Edale Cross Rocks Cross where everything is low grade, Upper Edale Rocks next door has two 2 star VDs (Traverse and Crack and Bending Crack). If things go well the severe Morrison's Route on the Pagoda is doable (more bold than hard). Then maybe go for a walk via Kinder Low to The Downfall or pick and mix starred routes on crags further west.

 marktrik 04 May 2021
In reply to DrJP:

Have a look at 'over the moors' climbing guide book.

Also worth taking a look at crowden clough as a walk in, follow the river all the way up. 

 heleno 04 May 2021
In reply to DrJP:

Does it have to be Kinder for his first outing? Windgather is not far away and might be a gentler reintroduction for someone returning after illness, before moving on to Kinder on a subsequent day out. 

If things are going well and he is ready to up his game on Kinder, Mermaids Ridge is also a lovely route.

Hope you both have a great time. Kinder is a very special place to climb. 

OP DrJP 04 May 2021
In reply to heleno:

Cheers for the advice guys. Over the moors has just arrived and I'm currently flicking through getting the sofa psyche. 

Its more he hasn't got access to a car, and I'm traveling from Manchester. Windgather is a good shout though. 

Cheers


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