UKC

Re Raven Threshthwaite thread. For those not leading E4 etc, there are many other decent routes that have been cleaned up over the years e.g. Great End Corner, Alexas, Vesper, the Garotte, the flying slab on Black Crag (melange of several routes right of Holly Tree Corner). Raven's Groove on Gillercombe didn't quite make it on account of needing a JCB rather than a brush.

Any suggestions for E2 or below due a clean? Have got a few routes in mind.

DC

Where Eagle Dare in Langstrath? Heard someone climbed it this year. Carnival at Eagle Crag Buttermere? Was rather dirty back in 2018 when I climbed it. 

The Squawk (E2 5b)

Falconer's Crack (VS 4c)

Greatend Corner (HVS 5a) unless you know its been cleaned recently.

Also does anyone know what state Sword of Damocles (E1 5b) is in currently?

Gets cleaned regularly but infrequently. I haven't been there for a while, almost impossible to get to the crag base due to bracken.

DC

If you have the enthusiasm, Mayday direct on the East Buttress. Currently unclimbable even in the dry, the moss is so deep.

It is likely that moss removal may accelerate drying time. 

No Holds Barred on Greatend Crag. Once clean it seems to stay that way a lot longer than Greatend Corner and is a superb companion route to the amazing Banzai Pipeline (seemingly always clean).

Most things on Pavey? High Crag? Parts of Scafell?

Lots of little things, too. Tried to cleanDouble Talkin' Jive (E1 5b) today. Was climbable by the end but still filthy. Moss and lichen in my eyes every time I placed a cam above me!

It doesn't fall into your criteria of E2 and under, and is a totally selfish request, but The White Wizard (E3 5c)?

I think Scafell has quite a few candidates probably. Could have definitely done with wearing goggles when I did Ichabod the other year, got so much dry moss in the eyes.

Saxon is currently immaculate, Nazgul had loads of ascents in last week is fine (watching other on it), but White Wizard still looked absolutely disgusting to me. I'd always really wanted to do it, but given the general state of the thing I observed the other day I'm not so sure now - I'd want a grade in hand to deal with the grime.

The East Buttress routes we did were all in good nick, even a less popular one with no chalk on (Chartreuse). Didn't do Ichabod this time, but can't see that, Phoenix and Roaring Silence being mucky just now.

Last week we tried to warm up on Marshall Law at Iron Crag. We’d done the more popular Steel Band previously. I led the original P1, which isn’t really recommended. The recent Rockfax suggests starting up Granolithic Groove, which is probably more sensible.

Anyway, that was as far as we got, because the crack forming the steep first third of the next traverse pitch was completely choked with heather…

However, the LH buttress on Iron has 2 situ ab points at the moment - 1 at the top of Granolithic, and 1 at the top of Marble Staircase (though the sling on the latter is really too short, so I suggest using your own 8ft sling on the same block and collecting it later) - and during an ab from each, I managed to remove the heather from Marshall Law.

What I didn’t have the kit with me to do was to brush the soil out of the crack - this will be a 5 minute job with a soft brush, though you’ll need to do both abseils to get it all. Climbing the pitch without this last bit of cleaning would be very unpleasant…

So, if you (or anyone else) has time and a soft brush (a 2ft length of plastic pipe you can blow through, whilst keeping your face away from the dust and debris would work even better) and could finish the job I started, that would be brilliant.

Please post up here if you do manage to sort it, as I’d like to return and finish the route, the second pitch of which looks excellent.

Neil

The White Wizard (E3 5c) isn't unclimbably grubby, just generally lichenous, primarily on pitch 2 and the original pitch 3 which you can bypass (recommended). I did it in June last year without prior cleaning, we retreated onto the excellent alternative pitch 3 because the original 3 was absolutely soaking at the bulge - I noticed my wire and krab were still there last week so I think we were the last team on it!

Pitch 2 was stunning and although lichenous, all the gear, holds and footholds were clean enough not to feel too sketchy.

East Buttress routes stay way cleaner generally with the odd exception. Lost Horizons (E4 6b) is a drainage line but again was clean where you needed it last week, just a bit harder to read after the arete is reached.

WW always a little grubby but possible to climb anyway. In response to Lakeswinter , Sword of Damocles was fine recently ( The Gnomon next to it was dirty but cleaned up fine on climbing ( with a nut key to clear cracks ). 
The routes I love most that need more ascents are the three big E3’s on Eagle Buttermere. This year have only done Shape of things to Come but past ascents of it and Deimos and Wing and a Prayer have been mossy !! 
Agree Eagle Borrowdale could do with a good scrub ! 
let’s hope the good weather  returns !

A

Ichabod was in v good nick last week 

Castration Crack (E3 6a) has had a good scrub earlier this year, though the logbooks suggest there's room for improvement (they could always do something about it. instead of moaning!).

Also  Dropping Crag had the E1-E3s cleaned the other year and should still be in good condition (when dry), and while short the routes are very good.

Good stuff.

All fantastic routes but haven't been up there for years. Did once clean a new line but that is unfinished.

DC

Extol (E2 5c) is in pretty decent nick at the moment, though the start would benefit from a tidy up. The main pitch is outstanding! 

https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/2021/07/14/dove-take-2-extol-and-bucket-ci...

Get on it! 

Great job. Remember Extol being good value and always wanted to do Bucket City. Love it. 
A

Now we went up to Green Crag Buttermere today , for a re visit after 20 years ( when did Saraband and The Wray).  Did Ala Verde and Green Crag Buttress. What fantastic routes. Cleaned up fast as we climbed and now clear of moss and choss on the holds and gear placements. Steep unlikely looking routes with surprising holds , generally good gear after jungle bashing starts. 
love esoteric lakes ! 

Totally agree. Have done Velocette, Paper tiger, Ala Verde, Wray, Saraband, Thorgrim, did second ascent of GCB.

Have done some cleaning on the VS to the right, good adventurous line in the afternoon sun. Odyssey. There are unclimbed lines too.

Green gets full summer evening sun from the northwest.

DC

The Chancel (VS 4b)

Did this yesterday and thought it was an excellent mild VS with some superb quality rock and positions. We cleaned out some cracks and holds and now it is good to go.

Yep ! We got burned off by the sun yesterday climbing to sunset. All very different now though ! 
 Will be back as soon as weather is more Clement!