UKC

Lawrencefield project?

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Removed User 23 Jan 2021

I was at Lawrencefield a few months ago and in the bay, by the road, there is a fairly blank face covered in chalk marks. It looks like a really hard route, but couldn't figure out what it was, and can't find any logged ascents of it. Is it a project or has it already been climbed?

Post edited at 17:52
 Mike D 23 Jan 2021
In reply to Removed User:

Hi. It’s a long standing ‘last great problem’. Don’t believe it’s been done yet. It gets a mention (with a couple pics) in this article from 2016:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/the_last_great_problems_on_gri...

 remus Global Crag Moderator 23 Jan 2021
In reply to Removed User:

Fairly sure Ryan Pasquill and/or Miles Gibson have been fairly close to doing it in the past, not sure who's been on it recently.

 sheavi07 23 Jan 2021
In reply to remus:

I know Miles Gibson was trying it in the past.

 Cobra_Head 23 Jan 2021
In reply to Removed User:

Why? have you done it?

21
In reply to Removed User:

I'm pretty sure Miles did all the moves, think he might have linked it on the toprope too but I cant remember now, it's a while back and was second hand news in the pub! It's a huge fall onto what was a layer of pads and a gym mat. Luckily it's not far to carry it in. Needs really stiff shoes apparently.

Removed User 23 Jan 2021
In reply to Somerset swede basher:

> I'm pretty sure Miles did all the moves, think he might have linked it on the toprope too but I cant remember now, it's a while back and was second hand news in the pub! It's a huge fall onto what was a layer of pads and a gym mat. Luckily it's not far to carry it in. Needs really stiff shoes apparently.


Johnny did all the moves in three sections and, allegedly, there's a "rest" after the second section.

But... really?  It's a pretty scrappy short wall on a quarried face subsidiary to a nice small venue.  Go to Scotland and climb a truly great route?

51
 The Pylon King 23 Jan 2021
In reply to Removed UserBilberry:

Is it a competition of venues?

 wbo2 23 Jan 2021
In reply to Removed UserBilberry: Alternatively it's a good looking and very obvious line overlooking and very obvious from the path to a popular venue.  

I'm surprised it doesn't get more attention

Why bother with Scotland? Norway isn't much further

1
 tehmarks 23 Jan 2021
In reply to Removed UserBilberry:

> Go to Scotland and climb a truly great route?

Do you also eat the exact same type of food for dinner every night? A varied diet is good for the body and good for the soul.

Post edited at 22:12
Removed User 23 Jan 2021
In reply to you lot:

'k, 'k.

I hear you.  Just a reaction to the all pervasive grit-centricness of UK climbing (and UKClimbing, though that's less important).

Don't get me wrong; I love a good grit route as much as anyone (yeah? Prove me wrong). However, when "best route in the world" threads get 90% of the routes mentioned in Derbyshire, we have to accept something might be a little squiff in our perspective.

If you ranked the very best routes in the UK, what number would you reach before you got to a grit route?  Honestly.  They're lovely - and quite, well, particular - and grippy, and in quite "nice" settings... but they're also short and a bit same-ey.  So I'm struggling to see the merit in a glorified boulder next to the path when there's real adventure waiting in the mountains and on the coast in settings that are exhilarating or humbling or spectacular, rather than "nice".

But sure - 16 folk disagree.  I respect your opinions.

22
Removed User 24 Jan 2021
In reply to Cobra_Head:

> Why? have you done it?

No it looks well hard hehe, I've pulled on to the first move and looked from the bottom but it seems like there isn't any gear. It's also way out of my league!

 Valkyrie1968 24 Jan 2021
In reply to Removed UserBilberry:

> But sure - 16 folk disagree.  I respect your opinions.

It's tricky to understand exactly why any given comment gets disliked (is it the message itself, the tone, the content, the person...?), but with that said: I suspect in this case that it's not so much people disagreeing with your statement regarding the quality of grit routes as it is them expressing their distaste with you putting other people down for what they enjoy doing with their time.

Obviously you're free to not climb on gritstone and think that it's a bit overhyped, but given the broader context of our hobby (climbing up the sheer faces of things that we could walk around the side of), it's a bit of a weird distinction to make. Yes, Scottish crags are bigger and less easily accessed than grit crags (and much bigger than what is, in the case of the Lawrencefield LGP, basically a very highball boulder problem 25 metres from an A road), but by that logic anything less than big-walling or Himalayan alpine climbing is trite and meaningless.

Let other people have their fun.

1
 GrahamD 24 Jan 2021

In 

> Those chalk marks were probably mine  

Bloody well clean them off, then 😊

 deacondeacon 24 Jan 2021
In reply to Removed UserBilberry:

> But... really?  It's a pretty scrappy short wall on a quarried face subsidiary to a nice small venue.  Go to Scotland and climb a truly great route?

Going to  struggle to do that after work on a weekday evening (or school in the poster's instance).

Its a 14 year old kid excited about a climb he's seen. Get over yourself. 

 veteye 24 Jan 2021
In reply to deacondeacon:

Also a bit harsh. 

I was going to dislike, but that did not get the idea that I think that you could have been less abrupt.

6
Removed User 24 Jan 2021
In reply to veteye:

The point about live and let live is fair enough - I apologise.

 veteye 24 Jan 2021
In reply to Removed UserBilberry:

That's very kind of you. 

 3 Names 24 Jan 2021
In reply to Removed User

Pretty sure DJ Viper soloed this years ago 

 Cobra_Head 24 Jan 2021
In reply to Removed User:

> No it looks well hard hehe, I've pulled on to the first move and looked from the bottom but it seems like there isn't any gear. It's also way out of my league!


ha ha you should have said, "yes, I soloed it yesterday. If anyone wants some beta let me know."


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