UKC

Loose block Cyfrwy Arete on belay for pitch 6

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 ColdAndWet 24 Jul 2020

I nearly pulled it off and it is now very very loose and unstable.

It is on the right of the belay ledge at the top of pitch 5 (Rockfax).

About 3x2x2 ft so not enormous but enough to hurt especially if it fell down onto the lower parts of the route or down one of the adjacent gullies.

It is avoidable but if it fell off I’m not sure where it would go. It was too misty to judge where it would fall lower on the route. It may have fallen off and down the sloping belay ledge and come into contact with anyone stood belaying.

Is there anyone else I should inform? Anyone got a contact for Aberdyfi SAR?

 Myfyr Tomos 24 Jul 2020
In reply to ColdAndWet:

Cheers for that C&W. Above the slanting crack, just before the end of the difficulties? One of many, more than likely - that's Cyfrwy for you. Will warn people over the next few days.

OP ColdAndWet 24 Jul 2020
In reply to Myfyr Tomos:

Yes at the end of the pitch with the right to left slanting crack

Indeed one of many loose blocks!

This one though will fall with the slightest touch or spontaneously.

Cheers

Neil

In reply to ColdAndWet:

It's essentially a pile of loose blocks. Many of which form the large scree fan at the base.

Companions on a parallel route dislodged a fridge-sized lump, fortunately, just as the second stepped off it at the top of a pitch.

 ianstevens 25 Jul 2020
In reply to captain paranoia:

Most of that crag is a pile of loose stuff!

2
 l21bjd 25 Jul 2020
In reply to ianstevens:

I once placed a friend in a crack somewhere on the route, released the trigger, and the rock moved apart.

In reply to ianstevens:

There's some surprisingly solid rock and some quality climbing further right along the crag. The other day I was very pleasantly surprised by red crystals on cyfrwy pinnacle just the other side of one pitch gully.

 Babika 26 Jul 2020
In reply to l21bjd:

That made me laugh. 

I had a similar experience on Hogmanay Hangover on Pant Ifan, Tremadog. The friend simply fell to the bottom of the huge block and I tiptoed ever so carefully away and abbed off......

 ianstevens 26 Jul 2020
In reply to pancakeandchips:

> There's some surprisingly solid rock and some quality climbing further right along the crag. The other day I was very pleasantly surprised by red crystals on cyfrwy pinnacle just the other side of one pitch gully.

Ah it’s all part of the charm though

 Myfyr Tomos 26 Jul 2020
In reply to pancakeandchips:

Aye. Some good routes in that area - very seldom see anybody on them. Try the left side of One Pitch Gully and follow the line of the Western Arete of Cyfrwy. If the Eastern Arete is loose, this'll have you taking up golf.


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