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malcom

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ian h 30 Oct 2003
looks like he is going well, anybody looked at smartboys recently. top effort!!!!!
 Andy Farnell 30 Oct 2003
In reply to ian h: Fantastic effort. Is it the 3rd 8b+ after John Gaskins lakes horrors?

Andy F
ian h 30 Oct 2003
In reply to andy farnell:
did si oconnor claim one?
willenburg brad pit eliminate thing, was that rated 8b 0r 8b+
daveP 30 Oct 2003
In reply to ian h:

8b, and its not an eliminate really.
ian h 30 Oct 2003
In reply to daveP:
well it did force the myers jump method. although i agree no holds are eliminated. but i am sure ote reported it is 8b+, suppose it has been downgraded or they were just largeing it up.
 220bpm 30 Oct 2003
In reply to ian h:
think Si O C's (in Coire Lagan?) goes at Font8a+
 Andy Farnell 30 Oct 2003
In reply to ian h: Isn't the SS to brad pit a wee bit height dependant?

Im sure I read somewere that if your shorter than Willenbugh it's nigh on impossible???

Don't know anything about the Si O'connor 8b+ Any detail on it's location etc?

Andy F
 Steve Crowe Global Crag Moderator 30 Oct 2003
In reply to ian h:

Awesome climbing proberbly the hardest thing Malc has done, and it took 10 years of effort.

Well done Malc.
 Andy Farnell 30 Oct 2003
In reply to Steve Crowe: ...........Hums along the theme tune to Record Breakers

But Malc has dedication in spades and deserves his success.

Will Sharma/Graham/Lostok etc be on their way to The County to try and repeat it I wonder?

Andy F
ian h 30 Oct 2003
In reply to andy farnell:
well on si oconnor 8a.nu profile he has claimed an ascent of a prob called little woman on the eve boulder and rated it 8b+/v14
 Andy Farnell 30 Oct 2003
In reply to ian h: Also on there he claims a repeat of one of John Gaskins 8b+'s and downgraded it to 8a+/8b.

Any details on this?

Andy F
 Steve Crowe Global Crag Moderator 30 Oct 2003
In reply to andy farnell:

Well funny you should say that but yes they are.
 Andy Farnell 30 Oct 2003
In reply to Steve Crowe: Brilliant. Have they been up that way before?

Andy F

ian h 30 Oct 2003
In reply to andy farnell:
anathesia? is there some question about how far left the line actually starts responsible for making it easier? i think vickers may also have rated it at 8b/v13 possibly?
daveP 30 Oct 2003
In reply to ian h:
> (In reply to daveP)
> well it did force the myers jump method. although i agree no holds are eliminated. but i am sure ote reported it is 8b+, suppose it has been downgraded or they were just largeing it up.

from what i heard willenberg had to do the jump method cos he found the other methods too bunched up (having like 9ft long legs), thus he found the jump method was easiest and therefore not an eliminate.
ian h 30 Oct 2003
In reply to daveP: oh ok
Simon Panton 30 Oct 2003
In reply to ian h: I seem to recall from a conversation with John a while back, that he reckoned the full version of Anaesthesia had not been repeated. I think the Stick It footage might miss off the hardest moves at the start - thus leading to the confusion over where it starts.

Rich Heap told me that they didn't want to feature traverses unless they had to, because he thought they were boring to watch. Unfortunately lots of the hard problems in the UK are traverses, even things like Mr Fantastic is more of a traverses than an up line. I guess Rich's solution was to spice up the traverses with choppy editing.
Billy De Kid 30 Oct 2003
In reply to ian h:
As far as I can remeber Ian gave Anaesthesia 8C+ as a route grade which roughly translates to 8b+ as a font traverse grade (8a+ direct grade equivalent) as I think it was given.
OP Greg Chapman 31 Oct 2003
In reply to Billy De Kid: I think a better Gaskins line to compare and contrast against Malcom Smiths new problem, would be his new problem at Woodwell O`ert Road - "At The Heart of It All". There will be photos on www.lakesbloc.co.uk by tonight.

Cheers Greg
Billy De Kid 31 Oct 2003
In reply to ian h:
Not to hard to see why Malcolm chose to call 'The Monk Life' if it took him 10 years to complete. Some climbers are very dedicated to their art.
OP s2 01 Nov 2003
In reply to Greg Chapman:

Funny, no-one is mentioning the v15 John did last winter. As far as I know no-one else has been able to even move on the v12 version, let alone the sit start.
OP bla 01 Nov 2003
In reply to ian h: whereabouts on the smart boys website is the info I dont seem to be able to find it.
OP Young un 01 Nov 2003
In reply to andy farnell:

How about ullola (sp) at Caley this is also 8b+ no? Was high fidelity given 8b or 8b+?
OP ian h away 02 Nov 2003
In reply to s2:was wondering how much attention gaskins problem walk away sit start has seen. have any of the other top boys tried it. after all it is a year old now.
OP Anonymous 04 Nov 2003
In reply to Young un: Is High Fidelity Steve Dunning's horrorshow highball? If so I think he gave it 8B (equivalent to an 8c route if i remember correctly).

Andy F

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