In reply to daveP:
well it did force the myers jump method. although i agree no holds are eliminated. but i am sure ote reported it is 8b+, suppose it has been downgraded or they were just largeing it up.
> (In reply to daveP)
> well it did force the myers jump method. although i agree no holds are eliminated. but i am sure ote reported it is 8b+, suppose it has been downgraded or they were just largeing it up.
from what i heard willenberg had to do the jump method cos he found the other methods too bunched up (having like 9ft long legs), thus he found the jump method was easiest and therefore not an eliminate.
In reply to ian h: I seem to recall from a conversation with John a while back, that he reckoned the full version of Anaesthesia had not been repeated. I think the Stick It footage might miss off the hardest moves at the start - thus leading to the confusion over where it starts.
Rich Heap told me that they didn't want to feature traverses unless they had to, because he thought they were boring to watch. Unfortunately lots of the hard problems in the UK are traverses, even things like Mr Fantastic is more of a traverses than an up line. I guess Rich's solution was to spice up the traverses with choppy editing.
Billy De Kid30 Oct 2003
In reply to ian h:
As far as I can remeber Ian gave Anaesthesia 8C+ as a route grade which roughly translates to 8b+ as a font traverse grade (8a+ direct grade equivalent) as I think it was given.
OP Greg Chapman31 Oct 2003
In reply to Billy De Kid: I think a better Gaskins line to compare and contrast against Malcom Smiths new problem, would be his new problem at Woodwell O`ert Road - "At The Heart of It All". There will be photos on www.lakesbloc.co.uk by tonight.
Billy De Kid31 Oct 2003
In reply to ian h:
Not to hard to see why Malcolm chose to call 'The Monk Life' if it took him 10 years to complete. Some climbers are very dedicated to their art.