What are peoples favorite E3/4s in the peak?
I seem to know about lots of good E1s, E2s and E5s, but very little in the gap, which is the grade range I want to have a go at. Any suggesgions appreciated, the more techy the better, but im not looking for a Downhill Racer (E4 6a) style solo.
I can recommend the asp, auto da Fe, electric circus, calvary (don't know why it has the rep. Loads of good gear). But I find there's not a lot on the grit that isn't scary at that grade. Nip over to Wilton (or Hobson moor) for E3/4. Or wait for people who know their way around the limestone to chime in.
Whilst there's loads, and I'm sure you'll get a good list here (it's worth checking the recent Resurrection thread too), for some reason the first one to pop in to my mind was The Strangler (E4 5c) at Plantation. Brilliantly balancey, scary but not too dangerous, technical arete-y goodness.
> What are peoples favorite E3/4s in the peak?
> I seem to know about lots of good E1s, E2s and E5s, but very little in the gap, which is the grade range I want to have a go at.
I seem to have rashly committed to having a go at Adjudicator Wall (E3 5c) when I'm fit enough this year.
for a fist full of stars in a variety of styles.
I'd also add Ontos (E3 6b) as it's safe and has a good short cruxy section.
Also Jetrunner (E4 6a) is varied and fun.
I'm sure I'll think of some others soon.
All the routes in Stoney Quarry on the main wall
Mortlock's Arete, Splintered Perspex, 42nd street , Queer Street on Chee Tor
Adjudicator Wall in Dovedale
Black Grub and the Beast on Beeston Tor
And too many more to mention
Although not technically in the Peak, in my opinion, high tor has the highest concentration of the best E3 and E4s. Decadence, flakey wall, Perseus, Darius, Robert Brown, nightmare of brown donkeys, the phrantic finish, lyme crime, Lauren, delta-G, amber gambler, yellow brick road and no entry are all excellent.
No more excuses at Stanage might fit what you are after at e4 - tricky bouldery start that takes a bit of working out (or did for me), hand placed peg and then easier ground to the top passing decent protection.
You can look forward to the big swing on the The Swan but check the sloping hold at the foot of the crack is dry before you go on it and Hunky Dory feels a bit unnerving at E3 but both good solos I know only too well!
how about Gypfast, named after a type of coach paint, Tower of Bizarre delights, Cloud nine, Deltoid Suffle in Dovedale, Faiance on Beeston, Caesar in Dovedale etc etc
Hi Gary, in what universe is Tales E3? I wasn’t recommending Hunky Dory or the Swan as solos, that’s some effort, they are pretty stern at E3.
@Rhagaelex: Topaz is a must-do route at any grade. Good E2.
Tales obviously isn’t E3, my stupidity: the stupidity of me soloing The Swan, Hunky Dory, Elegy, Ascent of Man..it was a regular event along with Death Knell but now just memories with my current medical problems: stroke, trapped ulna and median nerve so I can only think of them in nostalgic terms now😢
I obviously don't know the exact state of your health issues, but unless you are only motivated by achieving the standards you used to climb (which I doubt is true given the amount of time you've been climbing, your age, and what you've given to climbing), then these physical limitations are setting you a different challenge to which you can adjust.
So you won't be able to get satisfaction from achieving high standard technical climbing movement, instead take the satisfaction and joy from the other aspects, getting to nice places, meeting people, being out there, etc.
Good luck, keep going and don't give up.
Lot's of good ones mentioned already. A few more options:
My pick of the limestone E3 suggestions would be the High Tor, Chee Tor routes and Adjudicator Wall (this has always been pristine when I've been on it. Chee Tor routes will need more cleaning.)
> you will have to clean Adjudicator wall first and Mortlock’s is a very tough E4 and Robert Brown is a bold E3 hence its name
F.A Arnis Strapcans, Jerry Frost 1974. Named in memory of a friend of the first asensionists who died in a fall at Gogarth..
But it is bold , I wimped out first time I tried it
Almscliffe in Yorkshire could repay a trip with its handful of three star E3s? I realise OT as not in the Peak, but I’d be considering these if I could get up grit E3s. No idea if they’re sandbags or not, being Yorskshire they probably are