UKC

What are peoples favorite E3/4s in the peak?

I seem to know about lots of good E1s, E2s and E5s, but very little in the gap, which is the grade range I want to have a go at. Any suggesgions appreciated, the more techy the better, but im not looking for a Downhill Racer (E4 6a) style solo.

In reply to Rhaegalex:

Auto da Fe (E4 6a) is great and with some contrasting sections

In reply to JIMBO:

I can recommend the asp, auto da Fe, electric circus, calvary (don't know why it has the rep. Loads of good gear). But I find there's not a lot on the grit that isn't scary at that grade. Nip over to Wilton (or Hobson moor) for E3/4. Or wait for people who know their way around the limestone to chime in.

In reply to Rhaegalex:

Whilst there's loads, and I'm sure you'll get a good list here (it's worth checking the recent Resurrection thread too), for some reason the first one to pop in to my mind was The Strangler (E4 5c) at Plantation. Brilliantly balancey, scary but not too dangerous, technical arete-y goodness.

In reply to Rhaegalex:

Wings of Unreason (E4 6a) is a gem.

I also enjoyed Cheat (E3 5b)

In reply to Rhaegalex:

I seem to have rashly committed to having a go at Adjudicator Wall (E3 5c) when I'm fit enough this year.  

How about:

Goal of the Month (E3 5c)

Appaloosa Sunset (E3 5c)

Black Grub (E3 5c)

Traveller in Time (E4 6a)

for a fist full of stars in a variety of styles.

In reply to Rhaegalex:

Stoney is brilliant for safe-ish E4's.

In reply to Rhaegalex:

Traveller might be fairer at E3. Also good at E3:

Hunky Dory, Swan and. Ascent of Man, Roaches.

Corinthian and Comedian, Hen Cloud.

In reply to Rhaegalex:

Safe ones:

Autumn Wall (E4 6a) @ Wharncliffe.

The C routes at Hen Cloud, JR mentions above, plus Borstal Breakout (E4 6b).

Master Spy Direct (E4 6a) @ Wilton 1.

Moon Walk (E4 6a) @ Curbar

Slightly less safe:

Old Friends (E4 6a)

In reply to Rhaegalex:

Agree with others above that Auto da Fe (E4 6a) and Calvary (E4 6a) are great. Calvary is far better protected than it's guidebook description suggests. 

I'd also add Ontos (E3 6b) as it's safe and has a good short cruxy section. 

Also Jetrunner (E4 6a) is varied and fun. 

I'm sure I'll think of some others soon.

In reply to climberchristy:

Also Telli (E3 6a) and Time for Tea (E3 5c)

The latter is really safe at crux but then pretty run out. However, it gets easier the more run out you get. 

In reply to climberchristy:

Unless you're short!

In reply to Rhaegalex:

All the routes in Stoney Quarry on the main wall

 Mortlock's Arete, Splintered Perspex, 42nd street , Queer Street on Chee Tor

Adjudicator Wall in Dovedale 

Black Grub and the Beast on Beeston Tor

And too many more to mention

In reply to Billg: I came up with pretty much the same list for my favourite limestone E3s, although I wouldn’t call Queer Street or Adjudicator wall “techy” they are still brilliant. I’d add in Absent Friends and Robert Brown too.

In reply to Jon Read:

I am short so I did the left hand finish which is really run out but pretty easy.

In reply to Rhaegalex:

San Melas (E3 5c)

Borstal Breakout (E4 6b)

Licence to Run (E4 6a)

Ramshaw Crack (E4 6a)

Traveller in Time (E4 6a) although it's genuinely more like E2

In reply to Rhaegalex:

Calvery and Hathersage trip at stanage 

In reply to Rhaegalex:

Although not technically in the Peak, in my opinion, high tor has the highest concentration of the best E3 and E4s. Decadence, flakey wall, Perseus, Darius, Robert Brown, nightmare of brown donkeys, the phrantic finish, lyme crime, Lauren, delta-G, amber gambler, yellow brick road and no entry are all excellent.

In reply to Rhaegalex:

No more excuses at Stanage might fit what you are after at e4 - tricky bouldery start that takes a bit of working out (or did for me), hand placed peg and then easier ground to the top passing decent protection. 

In reply to David Bennett:you will have to clean Adjudicator wall first and Mortlock’s is a very tough E4 and Robert Brown is a bold E3 hence its name

In reply to mrjonathanr:

You can look forward to the big swing on the The Swan but check the sloping hold at the foot of the crack is dry before you go on it and Hunky Dory feels a bit unnerving at E3 but both good solos I know only too well!

In reply to mark s:I did an early repeat of Borstal Breakout and thought, on retrospect probably E5 but San Melas is a good shout but Track of the Cat is the cream of the skyline: bad sneakers, Topaz, Entente  Cordiale and Elegy, although only a tough E2 is probably the best of its grade on grit?

how about Gypfast, named after a type of coach paint, Tower of Bizarre delights, Cloud nine, Deltoid Suffle in Dovedale, Faiance on Beeston, Caesar in Dovedale etc etc

In reply to duncan b:Tales of Yankee Power as well

In reply to Ben_Climber:Track of the cat is even better almost as good as White Wand at Stanage

or Entente Cordiale, Topaz, Slips, Bad Sneakers on the skyline

In reply to Gary Gibson:

Hi Gary, in what universe is Tales E3? I wasn’t recommending Hunky Dory or the Swan as solos, that’s some effort, they are pretty stern at E3.

@Rhagaelex: Topaz is a must-do route at any grade. Good E2.

In reply to mrjonathanr:

Tales obviously isn’t E3, my stupidity: the stupidity of me soloing The Swan, Hunky Dory, Elegy, Ascent of Man..it was a regular event along with Death Knell but now just memories with my current medical problems: stroke, trapped ulna and median nerve so I can only think of them in nostalgic terms now😢

In reply to Gary Gibson:

Very sorry to hear that I imagine that is deeply frustrating. Hope things improve soon!

In reply to mrjonathanr:it’s not likely unfortunately, I think my climbing career is probably at an end?

In reply to Gary Gibson:

I obviously don't know the exact state of your health issues, but unless you are only motivated by achieving the standards you used to climb (which I doubt is true given the amount of time you've been climbing, your age, and what you've given to climbing), then these physical limitations are setting you a different challenge to which you can adjust.

So you won't be able to get satisfaction from achieving high standard technical climbing movement, instead take the satisfaction and joy from the other aspects, getting to nice places, meeting people, being out there, etc.

Good luck, keep going and don't give up.

In reply to Michael Hood:giving up isn’t in my DNA but after reaching the 5,000 number, I have already done more new routes and am currently working on more at Harpur Hill with the prospect of an updated topo guide in April?

In reply to Rhaegalex:

Lot's of good ones mentioned already. A few more options:

Tippler Direct (E3 6a)

Charm (E3 5c)

Boulevard (E3 6a)

Boot Hill (E3 5c)

My pick of the limestone E3 suggestions would be the High Tor, Chee Tor routes and Adjudicator Wall (this has always been pristine when I've been on it. Chee Tor routes will need more cleaning.)

In reply to Si dH:

Absent Friends (E3 5c)

Rave On (E3 5c)

the Chee Tor routes are fun.

Twikker (E3 5c)

Saville Street (E3 6a)

Both good, the latter high in the grade with good gear.

 

In reply to Gary Gibson:

 F.A Arnis Strapcans, Jerry Frost 1974. Named in memory of a friend of the first asensionists who died in a fall at Gogarth.. 

But it is bold , I wimped out first time I tried it 

Almscliffe in Yorkshire could repay a trip with its handful of three star E3s? I realise OT as not in the Peak, but I’d be considering these if I could get up grit E3s. No idea if they’re sandbags or not, being Yorskshire they probably are

In reply to Gary Gibson:

I was going to suggest Robert Brown (E3 5c) although I’d lead a few before, my climbing partner suggested the it was my first ‘proper’ E3