I’m going on a family holiday to Pembrokeshire and hoping to get some climbing in with the kids (well, teenagers).
Are there any crags you’d recommend for easier approaches and safeish at the top and bottom? We’ll be near St Davids so I was thinking Porth Clais, but are there any other options you would suggest?
I don't know North Pembrokeshire at all really. For South Pembrokeshire there's Saddlehead. It's a bit of a scramble down (head for the "saddle" along the ridge, then descend), but nothing too extreme, you just need to be sensible. I suspect there'll be an ab-rope set up as well... there often is. A good part of the crag is non-tidal and there's lots of fairly easy routes by Pembroke standards (Diff to HVS). Nearby there's also Stennis Head (Main Cliff), which again has a similar level of scrambling to the base, but you need to know where the descent is. Again, it's non-tidal, but apart from a couple of VS climbs near the left end, the climbing is a lot harder (HVS to E3).
There are other easier crags like Crystal Slabs and Flimstone Bay, but access is a whole lot more involved (finding them and abseiling in).
Seems to be the thing to do this month:
Thanks, yes I did think of the upper section of Saddle Head as one option for southern Pembroke. I’ve never climbed north Pembrokeshire either.
Thanks. I should have done a search. Some good recommendations there. I was hoping to lead climb some easy stuff, but lowering / top roping may give more options.
You can scramble down to Porth-y-Ffynon (the right hand purple slab) when the tide is low enough. It has routes from Diff up.
Also Initiation Slabs, in St Non's Bay may be worth a look.
So much great stuff in North Pembroke, you could event try them on DWS at Barrel Zawn if you are feeling adventurous (take long trousers for the walk in). I am staying at Caerfai farm from the 31st July with my family for 10 days. Happy to get a days climbing it schedules allow. Caerfai crag is good too but needs an absail.
Thanks. Both look like decent options. I assume Initiation slab is ab in (or TR)?
I’ve got to say, the main photo on the rockfax app makes Barrel Zawn a bit less appealing. Doesn’t look very DW!
We’re staying in Solva, and I don’t think I’ll be doing any full days, or remotely hard stuff, but I can drop you a message, cheers
Yes initiation slab is ab in or top roped.