UKC

Pleasley Vale Beta - Scrambled

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 ebdon 12 Jul 2021

A bit of a long shot for a some beta for a bit of an obscure route.... can anyone tell precisely where Scrambled (E3 6a) goes? going straight up and right from the juggy block seems utterly desperate with some hard poor crimps/wild slaps to the undercut under the roof and way harder than the adjacent Grounded (E2 6a), I don't know if a hold has broken - there's a bit of a scar under the roof?  It seems more balanced reaching left to a mediocre crimp in a break that is also used by the Rh on the crux of Grounded and then rocking back right to the undercut under the roof - but I'm not sure this hold is in?  if anyone has any ideas my ankles would appreciate them!

Post edited at 10:40
 Offwidth 12 Jul 2021
In reply to ebdon:

Email me and I can probably put you in touch with someone who might know.

 Alkis 12 Jul 2021
In reply to Offwidth:

Yeah, looks like Mike has done it and does point out a broken hold in his log.

OP ebdon 12 Jul 2021
In reply to Alkis:

Yep, I saw that but saw it was pre-guidebook so presumed the grade should reflect the broken hold.  it may just be the vagaries of the range of UK tech grades I'm struggling with as it just seems so much harder than the neighboring 6a.  I should probably just get over myself and shunt it but I listen to Fiend too much on here before he was banned and am obsessed by trying to onsight ground upping everything.  That being said Ceiling Zero (E3 6a) is next with will definitely require an abseil as the holds look filthy.  Might also require a spotter for that one!


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