UKC

Protecting heart of darkness, mowing word

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 1979dil 11 May 2022

Will nuts and hexes be enough to protect the traverse on heart of darkness? Or will I need some cams?

 nikoid 11 May 2022
In reply to 1979dil:

Your second may like you to take some cams.

 PaulJepson 11 May 2022
In reply to 1979dil:

Depends how many grades you have in hand. I have no doubt you could do it all on passive gear (it's a joggly horizontal, there are big nuts and threads the whole way) but you would potentially be absolutely boxed by the end of it. First pitch is all on your arms and I'd really rather be banging medium-big cams the whole way. 

You also run the risk of pieces wangling out when you pull the ropes, which would make it a very serious proposition for your second indeed. 

Second pitch is piss.  

The HS finish is bird banned at the moment as well, so you'll need to be steady e1 to get out.

1
 spenser 11 May 2022
In reply to 1979dil:

I seconded the first pitch, was rather glad the leader had carried double cams in the Red-Blue sizes (thin hands to fists).

The Blowing in the Wind finish is utterly brill.

 Graeme Hammond 11 May 2022
In reply to 1979dil:

After my friend failed to get very far on sealhut and had used up most of our large cams (we had no hexes). I decided the best option was to do heart of darkness instead finishing up Blowing in the wind finish due to birds. This was because as I had done Sealhunt recently but hadn't lead the first pitch of HoD previously. Needless to say the 5m plus run outs between the gear made it rather exciting for both parties as I tried to spread only 2 pieces of large gear i had along the whole pitch. We probably got pumped as we were likely over gripping and alternative gear was fiddly to arrange and remove. It was boiling so we were fried by the time we eventually topped out, but it was a quality adventure and a good challenge. I'd recommend cams too and plenty as previously suggested though I guess as previously mentioned it is possible without any, and was perhaps the norm when first done. The break also can get a bit smeggy so it is not best done early in the morning if there has been any dampness overnight. 

Post edited at 22:20
In reply to 1979dil:

Please be aware, but there are new restrictions possibly in place:


 alan moore 12 May 2022
In reply to 1979dil:

What they said. I used Friends and the odd thread. Very pumpy, hand traversing on soap bars....

 jkarran 12 May 2022
In reply to 1979dil:

Traverse gear needs to hold for a pull in either direction, worth remembering because you're both leading but your partner is totally reliant on your good judgement and care.

jk

OP 1979dil 12 May 2022
In reply to 1979dil:

Thanks for the replies.

I’d better get some cams for this route then 👍


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