In reply to NIGBEE:
Top of the flake broke decades ago, made the move slightly harder but still 5a.
Bottom of the flake has worn massively, probably due to wear from cams. It used to take a solid hex. Now a hex pulls through unless incredibly well placed (and this was many years ago so it'll be even worse now) so cams are used and the wear accelerates.
This is a problem on a lot of grit but I can't see any easy solution since we all want the best protection we can get