Looking for recommendations for overhang trad routes on gritstone. Peak District or Yorkshire.
Recently started pushing into the E's and have had a lot of fun climbing two routes in particular.
Bivens Crack at Gardom was brilliant. Loads of gear, on a steep wall!
And thin red line at Heptonstall, same again ran out of draws on this one placing so much.
Keen to find more routes like this, and also keen to find climbers to follow me up them.
Plenty in the low E’s at New Mills! Hanging Crack at Dovestones Edge. Ramshaw is quite steep too.
The Stanage unconquerables?
I don't think overhanging walls are that common. I did Biven's Crack the other week and was surprised by the pumpy feeling that nearly spat me off.
Left Unconquerable is steep and pumpy.
Encouragement at Hen cloud.
Billy Whizz at Lawrencefield and Mather Crack at New Mills are pumpy in a similar way perhaps, but not really overhanging. Perhaps Dexterity at Millstone?
Soyuz at Curbar is pumpy and a similar angle throughout.
How about Commander Energy at the Roaches?
Roof Route at Rivelin springs to my mind too in addition to those already mentioned by others. It's HVS but some people claim E1, not sure why though. Gear is bomber as are the hand jams and a simple left heel hook will take you over the roof. Certainly not pumpy with good technique. Really safe route and good fun!
The top right hand finish for E1 does get a little steeper but it's very short lived and I certainly wouldn't put it in any 'overhanging' grouping.
I was trying to think of sustained, pumpy routes rather than roofs as that is certainly what Biven's crack is. It certainly is overhanging, but I think they are rare. I usually find proper roofs need a completely different skill set which I'm not sure I have.
Someone just mentioned L'Horla, which might be the best so far. Overhangs the whole way. Possibly similar difficulty to Biven's too.
There are some lime routes that fit the bill apart from not being on grit, like Carls Wark Crack (E2 5c).
I don't recall that being overhanging. As you go left across the lip
King of the Swingers
Would make for a good session.
There's a few categories in my mind of overhanging grit.
First there's the nice ones, yarding up jugs and maybe a bit of jamming:
Great Buttress (HVS 5a) - outrageously fun and steep at the grade. The Rasp (E2 5b) Earl Buttress (E2 5c) and Brimstone (E2 5b) already mentioned. These routes are quite hard to come by on grit, which is a pitty as everyone like swinging about on buckets like on a 6a in the wall. (Although The Rasp is a bit harder than that!)
Then there's grovelling over a roof. Stanage has plenty of these, starting easy with The Link (E1 5b) (no grovelling really), 5.9 finish (quite grovelly), FBD (not grovelly until the last bit), Hanging Crack (E2 5b), Quietus (ouch!).
Last of all there is the horror show overhanging route: the roof crack. Undercut Crack (E2 5c), Cave Crack (E3 5c), Sentinel Crack (E3 5c), the list goes on. The only one of this genre I've ever managed I think is the baby one already mentioned Roof Route (HVS 5b) and even that was desperate!
Why not try some overhanging trad limestone? Sirplum would be right up your street.
I didn't find Dexterity sustained at all, the easy bomber jams take you 3/4 the way up in no time at all and then it's only the final couple of moves that are particularly difficult. Good route, all the same
It was 7 years ago that I did it, so my memory is probably hazy. I'm sure I went quickly too, but it was long enough for me to get pumped!
> The Rasp
The E1 next to it as a warm up?
The Vice? (Stanage End one).
Hope you don't like having skin.
The tippler at stanage got done this weekend, I'll be searching for the guide book to look for next weekends project.
Thank you so much for your recommendations, I've got a very big ticklist to work though!
Neil Gresham has completed his three-year project on Iron Crag in the Lake District to create Final Score E10 7a. The line climbs directly up the middle of the severely overhanging main wall at Iron Crag. The direct start was...