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Roaches - Diamond Wednesday

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 Rick51 28 Jun 2020
In reply to Michael Hood:

HVS 5a A good, well protected, if slightly artificial, climb. From the holly, follow the slim groove and crack to a small triangular roof. An awkward move round this leads to slabby breaks above. 2009 BMC guide

MVS 4b Follow Hollybush Crack but continue up the thin crack on the left to a small triangular roof. Go over this. Climb the wall above. BMC 1981

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In reply to Michael Hood:

Yes, the climber is a bit too far left. 

> maybe you use the arete before the roof, but the line goes up the obvious crack & groove. And where exactly on the upper bit is "the final exposed rib" - there's no rib worthy of the name up there.

Pass the bush, and up the crack/groove.  A step left at the little roof, then step back right again, to be perched on the rather-small "rib", then straight up.

As you say, a worthwhile climb.

Edit to add: The "rib" can be seen in this photo. The climber should step right and up from where they are, with a decent foothold right on the rib. 

  https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/roaches_upper_tier-797/diamond_wednesday-20093#photos&gid=1&pid=1

Post edited at 10:58
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 galpinos 28 Jun 2020
In reply to Michael Hood:

The current guide has the route in the groove to the right, then over the little roof at the top. The climber is on a different route, though not one in the definitive guide.

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In reply to Rick51:

Thanks, my log notes that it was a bit hard for the grade (at MVS 4b) in 1983.

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In reply to galpinos:

> The climber is on a different route, though not one in the definitive guide.

Yes, I suspect many people have been diverted by the Rockfax description.

Maybe call this variation Cubic Zirconia Wednesday 😁

Does get rather close to Black velvet though.

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In reply to Coel Hellier:

> Edit to add: The "rib" can be seen in this photo. The climber should step right and up from where they are, with a decent foothold right on the rib. 

But that "rib" is below the triangular roof, whereas Rockfax says "the final exposed rib".

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 justdoit 28 Jun 2020
In reply to Michael Hood:

hi it was my picture I did put a little reply to your comment, but not too sure if you would get a notification or not? 

you are indeed correct though I was off route, but in the comment I did say I was getting a rather cheeky off route rest, but then did go back right and rock up to the massive foothold. 

tar 

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In reply to Coel Hellier:

Makes more sense with that photo 😁 - it was a long time ago, but (IIRC) I think I used the square cut arete/rib to the right of that climber as a handhold. What I do remember is thinking that since this is obviously a gap-filling eliminate climb in nature, I must make sure I keep between the existing "main" routes and not wander about.

Although it's eliminate in nature, it's still a nice worthwhile route. Must do it again sometime, might have to be on the "blunt" end though.

With the current state of the holly bush it's probably eminently soloable at the moment - definitely not by me.

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In reply to justdoit:

I think only whoever posts the picture gets comment notifications.

It's a nice route, somehow manages to feel both squeezed in and totally independent at the same time. Was "interesting" in a WTF way when it was graded MVS 4b 😁

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 justdoit 28 Jun 2020
In reply to Michael Hood:

indeed even felt "interesting" for an HVS whilst on the route, afterwards after some thought its probably spot on for the grade. maybe it was my lack of trad climbing recently. 

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