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Robin Proctor Scar Warning

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 Smith42 29 May 2020

There is a small scree slope directly above the three routes at the left of main wall above Like a Rolling Stone.    Robin Proctor's Scar

I cannot emphasise enough how dangerous this is.

This scree is not evident from below or on the approach and can only be seen when you get to the belay and look over the top.  You do become aware of it though when missiles come flying past and nearly take out your belayer who luckily heard my warning and jumped out of the way. 

I am struggling to understand why these routes were bolted knowing this lurking danger is there.  I am not adverse to risk taking (as my logbook and general life will bear witness!) but I expect fellow climbers who equip routes to have a minimum duty of care to those that follow. 

That is i would expect climbers who bolt routes to either remove the hidden danger, not bolt a route there or make it clear that there is a hidden risk above what can be normally assessed.

I am not suggesting the whole crag has a loose scree slope above but some areas are seriously bad so at the moment it is a little like Russian roulette.  

Maybe the local BMC rep can investigate the rest of the crag for scree risk and then put some warning signs below the potential fall zones so at least people know there is an additional hazard. (Obviously with usual caveats that all climbing is dangerous etc)

Or maybe I v just become institutionalised by ten weeks of lock down and i need some omnipotent one to tell me when i am safe.

Post edited at 10:27
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 spidermonkey09 29 May 2020
In reply to Smith42:

I can't see how this is a surprise to anyone who looks at the topography of the area. It's probably sheep kicking it off the top, just like at Gordale or indeed, many other crags. I don't really see how a lot can be done about it beyond wearing a helmet to be honest.

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OP Smith42 29 May 2020
In reply to spidermonkey09:

Hi, this wasn't caused by sheep and there was very little wind.  

The scree is at the lip of the crag directly above these three routes.  I had to top out to strip the route and to the right looked like typical top of a limestone the crag.  We also climbed Central Buttress which finishes over the top and this buttress has a grass slope with loose rock but they are prevented from moving by the grass.    I kinda know and accept that hazard when climbing on limestone. 

What i witnessed is a localised and very significant additional hazard with a very high probability of occurring.  If people know about it at least they can make informed choices. 

These routes are not currently in a safe state and there is something that can be done about it as outlined in my opening post.  

But thank you for your comments and pass the word around about the hazards.

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