Routes at Upton, North Cornwall

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 skelf 23 Apr 2021

I went here today to have a look at top roping The Old Man and the Sea.  Upton - Arrowhead Pinnacle area

The route looked excellent but unfortunately just scrambling to the extremely thin and crumbly top to belay looked horrendous, from above or below, so we didn’t get on it. 

Does anyone know any details of the other 3 star route there, Foaming Jugs hvs? I couldn’t see anything else around that looked like a decent climb!

In reply to skelf:

Where's Mark Kemball when you need him most?

 skelf 23 Apr 2021
In reply to Inane Negativity:

Absolutely! I realise this is quite a niche post. 

In reply to skelf:

Maybe the easiest way up is to climb the route and it’s E5 to get down! 

 skelf 24 Apr 2021

The descent is somewhere between e5 and XS4a!

There’s definitely some history with the descent as there is a rope left hanging down the side of the route. I wouldn’t want to get too involved with it now though, as it’s been on a beach for 15 years and is anchored to a crumbling tuft of mud. 
I managed to find a description of the hvs route on javu. It’s on a very tidal pinnacle.


In reply to skelf:

Sorry, I've been off-line for a holiday! Getting to the top of The Old Man was fairly tricky15 years ago and I don't think it's got easier. However, Macca recently had a rope on it and was shunting it. Email me via UKC and I'll send you info on the other routes.

 Macca_7 25 Apr 2021
In reply to skelf:


Was down there on Friday night actually to check the rope! The rope was left in place early last year after getting to the top to replace the rope around the top and never wanting to go back to do it again! Its really quite sketchy sat one leg either side of the top of that fin trying to throw a loop or two of rope around the top.

I used it a lot throughout last summer and the climbing is really good just a shame the rock and the pegs are not above suspicion! I'll remove the rope next chance I get. If you need any more info drop me a line!

The HVS is on the steep side of the squat pinnacle out in the bay from TOMATS, its again good but a bit loose in places.



 skelf 26 Apr 2021
In reply to Mark Kemball:

Thanks Mark! I did wonder if it used to be a bit more pleasant up there but maybe not!

Will these routes be in the new guide?

 skelf 26 Apr 2021
In reply to Macca_7:

Thanks for that info! I sent you an email...

In reply to skelf:

The routes are in the new guide. As far as we know, we've included all the routes in the area up to the end of last year (there's been one or two this year, but we had to draw a line somewhere). We've also included a very large selection of the boulder problems. UKC has been a great help in this as I moderate nearly all of the Culm crags which means I get an email each time someone adds a new route to one of the crags I look after.

Note, the pegs on TOMATS were placed about 20 years ago when I first tried the line, so don't trust them, however when I finally got up it 5 years later, I found placements for gear to back them up.

Post edited at 22:55
 skelf 27 Apr 2021
In reply to Mark Kemball:

I’m really looking forward to the new guide. Thanks for all the efforts on it. 
I can’t see myself clipping the pegs any time - it was more of a top rope challenge with the pegs showing the way. There is the prospect of a bit of a swing if you come off by the arête! Has anyone looked at the direct line? 
I just happened to be on the beach there recently, spotted the slab and looked it up when I got home. Obviously when I read the glowing write up of it I became interested...

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