In reply to Robert Durran:
Dying sounds a bit extreme, but most recently, topping out on whither whether. 9pm, the only person on the hill, late sunshine. Stood still for a good sixty seconds of roaring silence before running down to glen Croe.
Most recently Sumo and Temple of Doom last summer, but pulling over the final jugs of Steeple always puts a big lasting smile on my face. Also, I never tire of doing The Screamer at Reiff - everything is perfection about that route.
Millstone HVS's - generally safe as houses, long routes for grit and just lovely movement, I know i'm going well after leading 2 or 3 of these in a session.
A quick solo of heaven crack at Stanage after you've been beasting yourself all day.
Bracket and slab, Gimmer. I've took several noobs up and the joy comes from seeing their faces at the top, you know you've given them something that'll stay with them forever, a proper mountain experience.
Quite a lot shorter than many of the routes that have been mentioned already, and I've only done it once, but I found Croton Oil at Rivelin to be incredibly satisfying - fun moves, good exposure, and, of course, it's a pinnacle!
I and my regular Peaks partner have already agreed that a repeat ascent is mandatory whenever we find ourselves in the area.
Just a few of the many. I picked the ones that first came to mind so there is a mixed bag of different grades.
The Sloth - Roaches
Great Slab - Cloggy
Fistuk halabi - St Catherines, Sinai (alone in the desert and only an ancient Israeli topo for guidance)
Via Dolorosa - Roaches
Valkyrie - both of them
Bicycle repairman - Staden
Moyer's Buttress - Gardoms
Sacre Coeur - Blackchurch
Blue Sky - pembroke
Espolon Central - Puig Campana
Troutdale Pinacle _ Lakes
Pace Di Chiostio - Sicily
Satan's Slip - Lundy
Cemetery Gates - Llanberis
Horned Crag Route - Lliwedd
In reply to Robert Durran: Not much experience as yet, but so far soloing the Cioch Nose in Applecross in glorious sunshine on a bank holiday Monday with not another soul to be seen.
Had I known about the ledges I would have brought bivi kit and stayed for the night.
Only HS, but as a young fledgling climber Integrity on Skye had me buzzing for days afterwards. And even now, decades on, I can still see those beautiful in-cut holds in the steep gabbro slab of the main pitch poised way above Coire Laggan.
In reply to Smelly Fox:
There's some real soul searching goes on to solo in the high Cairngorm Corries ! I chickened out of Scabbard on the most perfect September day; a huge missed opportunity. Go too far up the slab on Taliman? I did that with my wife. We had a 9mm rope tied round the middle and three nuts; it was supposed to have been a hiking trip...
My attempt on Grey Slab started with a walk across the plateau on fresh autumn snow. Did hanging dyke to warm up but there was so much frozen snow on the grassy exit that I chickened out of grey slab. Crystal ridge was a duff consolation prize but did, as ever, have the corrie to myself....
I remember Djibangi being a nice secure solo (brilliant route), but finding Scabbard a bit worrying being less positive (though it was a long time ago!). I didn't do Dagger because it was wet and resorted to a bit of self protection on the awkward crux of Talisman (the hardest move on any of them!)
Dagger is one of the few routes I found easier with having big feet, great jamming the right foot going up the corner!
Agree about Talisman having a strenuous awkward, but short lived crux.
Can't remember a single bit of Djbangi in summer? But have a photo of a young D Hawthorn on a winter ascent with D Dinwoodie.
In reply to Robert Durran:
The only sport route that stands out for me is Fiesta de los biceps,
one of the most memorable routes ever for me!
Trad, The moon, North west passage, Sun lover, Scoop wall, Wombat.
Chimes of freedom, Lucky strike.
Other sport routes include the one on that crag in spain ,was it number 12 or 13? one on that crag in France, oh and the one next to that too! Ha.
Really though, Lolita, DNA, and the likes at Kalymnos are very good.
I tend to think the routes that fill you with joy are the ones you'd do again and again, whereas the ones that are enough to make you die happy are so difficult it's unlikely you'd lead them more than the once.
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Pete Whittaker has made the first ascent of a mega 100-metre, three-pitch E8 roof crack in Natalie Zawn, Gogarth, North Wales, which he believes could be the longest roof climb established to date in the UK. The first pitch (E6 6c)...