In reply to Crag:
"very fashionble at the moment"......quote from a physio friend.
I got diagnosed with a SLAP tear 2 years ago caused by a trauma bouldering(extending with palm out slapping for a volume & collapsing on to it). I saw Leonard Funk in Manchester who seems to be THE guy in the North West. Following a conclusive MRI he advised I had a fairly large SLAP tear extending from 11'oclock through 4. His advise was surgery.
I continued to climb and chose to mull over the advise as having private health care he said I could be in for surgery at short notice(2 weeks) should I decide to proceed. He did say I'd be back.
Following diagnosis I continued to climb at more or less the same standard. I habitually have also done weights at least once a week and continued this, increasing the frequency initially following diagnosis. The weights consists of shoulder based exercises with a view to enhancing the muscles surrounding the shoulder, my intention making it more stable and less likely to diss-locate. Lots of shoulder presses, flat and inclined bench presses & bar bell raises.
The soreness declined gradually and in the time since I've managed to continue to climb E5 & 8a+ with little to no discomfort. This is the current situation and I'm loathed to have the operation unless this changes. I'd imagine it will need doing sooner or later but for now I see no reason to rock the boat.
As far as surgery goes it seems that the majority have full recovery with a significant lay-off.
However, 2 close friends have both had same injury and surgery. The first had both shoulders done and injured one again 9 months after OP. His last OP was 18 months-2 years ago and he's now back climbing to a high standard.......but it was a long re-hab. The 2nd had his done Sept 08 and was back climbing E5 by last summer. He's since injured the same shoulder again and is back on a waiting list unsure whether its the same injury or something else (He may see this post and comment).
There's a thread here with more advice;
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=298752&v=1#x4421989
Neither of my friends saw Len Funk.
Of the climbers I know who have seen Len Funk( Chris Gore, Mark Radtke) all have had full recovery and are back climbing to a similar standard. I believe John Dunne is also seeing Len Funk for the same injury.
There seems to be differing views on re-hab. Some surgeons advise very little for the first 8 weeks or so, Mr Funk has you on physio a week after the OP. He seems to have a high success rate and an alternative view on rehab. One thing he did say is that despite promoting rehab of 6 months on his website he was currently achieving it in half that time with current px's but was hesitant to mention this on the net at such an early stage. That was 2 years ago. Here's a link to his website which seems to be the definitive shoulder site in the UK.
Good luck if you go ahead with OP.
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