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Silent Spring - Burbage.

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I'd like some more info on this route, it's a 3 star route but has had hardly any ascents logged so I'm suspicious.

Am I going to die?

Will it be filthy green and unclimbable? Should I brush it first? 

I don't mind a terrifying swing into space, but will the gear keep me off the deck?

What are the pitch grades? Its E4 5c,5c but are both pitches E4?

Is it any good? 

 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator UKC Supporter UKC Supporter 12 Jul 2019
In reply to Dan Arkle:

It is years since I did it - there was a bolt at the belay but with no hanger on it so we dangled a rope down from the top as a back-up. The first pitch (green!) has runners, small wires iirc. The second pitch most of the runners were old rotted bolts that we hooked wires or thin cord over - it was a long time ago - might be worth checking them before you commit!


 lurcher 12 Jul 2019
In reply to Dan Arkle:

I've done it twice leading both pitches - must be good...  like Chris it was a good while ago but probably not as long as him..

The first 'pitch' is a bit pants- green and slippy- its a bit of a sketchy slap out to good hold on the arete. I didn't put any gear in.  

Both times hung a rope down to belay, obviously makes start of second pitch bit safer as don't remember much gear other than hooking old bolts initially, maybe couple bits of gear although the climbing is more absorbing than hard.

Great fun tho, enjoy! 

 UKB Shark 12 Jul 2019
In reply to Dan Arkle:

I remember absolutely nothing.

Hope that helps ;-) 

(Knew someone who soloed it BITD. Imagine that! His girlfriend had just dumped him)

In reply to UKB Shark:

Thanks everyone.  Maybe I'll wait until i've had a break-up!

 donie 13 Jul 2019
In reply to Dan Arkle:

Do masters of universe instead Dan.

Much better route.(though not as good as offspring which I think you’ve done)

Back up the bolts with rope you ab in on and you’re safe as houses.Still exciting.Flashable.E5 or soft 6.

Silent spring is a 1 star route

 snoop6060 14 Jul 2019
In reply to Dan Arkle:

I belayed triple H on this and it all looked a bit stupid. I mean you start at the top sort of down climb to the line before making your way back to the top a bit further along Some onlookers were perplexed at our antics, which isn't unusual, but in this case I think they had a point so we went home. 

In reply to snoop6060:

Be better if you could start it off a trampoline! No fannying around using your top rope as a bit of gear that way either

 snoop6060 14 Jul 2019
In reply to deacondeacon:

It's be good if the bay was filled with water and you solo it. It'd make a nice swimming spot that would. 

 Aly 15 Jul 2019
In reply to Dan Arkle:

It’s been a while since I did it but I remember it being a good route, a little green in places but that adds to the fun.  It’s pretty soft for the grade, though we used a hanging ab rope to back up the belay. 

First pitch is probably the crux, traversing out to the arête, from there it’s pretty steady across to the jug, climb down and over to the belay.

Pitch 2 is lovely and exposed.  I seem to remember that you can either hand-traverse (more technical but with small gear available) or foot-traverse (bold and delicate) the horizontal seam.  Either way take a few extra wires to thread over the bolt heads.  

Another vote for Masters if the Universe too.  Flash-able, and ultimately very safe if you back up off an abseil rope (having said that I body tested the manky old bolts without any dramas). 

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