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Slate + Non Limestone Sport in the Lake District

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Hi all,

I'm looking for any suggestions for non limestone sport climbing in the Lake District. Places which are generally well bolted and don't require and trad gear. Grades range in the 6's.

So far I've climbed at Runestone Quarry and Bram Crag Quarry which fit the bill, and have been suggested Coudy Rock and St. Bees Head.

I have the Lakes Sport and Slate Wired guidebook but I understand it's a bit out of date already with some places (Runestone Quarry had a bunch of routes added since it was published), and I understand much of the bolted slate in the book will not be as well bolted as a typical sport crag. Would really welcome any suggestions for slate that's bolted like Runestone Quarry.

Thanks!

Post edited at 20:18
 Exile 13 Sep 2021
In reply to JMAB:

What grades are you looking at?

In reply to Exile:

Sorry, added that. Anywhere with stuff in the 6's really.

 Mark Eddy 13 Sep 2021
In reply to JMAB:

Think there's been some additions to Cathedral quarry, but not sure of details/grades. But coming to the Lakes for well bolted climbing is mostly not going to work. Come here for trad, go elsewhere for sport. The Yorkshire Dales has loads

In reply to Mark Eddy:

Thanks.

Yes I realise the Lakes isn't the best for sport but as far as I am aware the stuff in Yorkshire is limestone which I tend to avoid.

In reply to JMAB:

Someone has been equipping new routes at Dalt Quarry. I despair, don't waste your time.

Other grot piles and road cuts have been developed, details on the frcc website.

But really, don't waste your time on these either.

If you don't want to trad climb, set up a few top ropes and get a taste of what you are missing.

The best sport climbing in the lakes is not in the lakes. St Bees, The Muslim Crag, Appleby etc. Each of these has its character. 

 Lankyman 14 Sep 2021
In reply to JMAB:

>as far as I am aware the stuff in Yorkshire is limestone which I tend to avoid.

That's an awful lot to avoid. No idea of the proportion but the overwhelming amount of sport (in England at least) must be lime, quarried or 'natural'.

 tmawer 14 Sep 2021
In reply to JMAB:

Beck Wythop is well bolted slate. Not the best crag in the world, but with the right partner and an open mind, fun can be had there. 

In reply to JMAB:

Do you mind me asking why you don't like limestone?

In reply to tmawer:

Really?

I heard reports from Desperados who used it for toproping during F&M, they weren't good.

I considered using it for dry tooling 10 ish years ago but it looked rubbish so didn't.

How standards have fallen. 

 Johnhi 14 Sep 2021
In reply to tmawer:

Usually I'm the first person baulk at quarried shitholes, but the old road cutting at Beck Wythops OK for a quick after work visit.  The holds are a little friable but infinitely preferable to loose rock that will kill you.  That said the usual go elsewhere for sport remains the best advice.

 tmawer 14 Sep 2021
In reply to Presley Whippet:

I think I have reached a point with my climbing that the people I am with is more important than where and what I climb. 

In reply to JMAB:

There are at least two new venues currently under development with, no doubt, more to follow. When details are known free to download crag guides will be added to the climbing area of the FRCC website to accompany the Runestone Update and Beck Wythop guide. These guides are subject to continual review and updating as information is received. To help us keep the files up to date please send us feedback on crags and/or  routes via our website.

In reply to tmawer:

I agree but within reason. 


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