UKC

Smith Repeats Dreamtime

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 Michael Ryan 09 Feb 2004
from:
http://www.smartboysonline.co.uk/news.htm


"Malcolm Smith should sleep well tonight!   After all the talk about his trip to Cresciano with Andy Earl and Gaz Parry,  Malc has climbed Dreamtime  today confirming the grade at Font 8c. Malcolm got really close early on their trip but  then the weather turned too warm."
richard bradley @ work 09 Feb 2004
In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA: Well done Mr Smith.
Danno 09 Feb 2004
In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA: not sure people on this site bothered about bouldering!
, this is quite old news after all.
 Adam Lincoln 09 Feb 2004
In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA:

Bit strange how he reckoned on the other forum that 8c doesnt exist yet. Then confirms the grade....

Good effort though!
In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA:
'Malc has climbed Dreamtime today confirming the grade at Font 8c'

You seem to like these 'cut and paste jobs' so what do you think of what Malcolm Smith said a week or 2 ago on planetfear (if that was him? you never know who is really posting on planetfear):

http://www.planetfear.com/climbing/forum/t.html?t=2353

'I cant see any reason to give anything 8c.That grade is unbelievable and I struggle to believe anyone around can climb it. We've got to be sensible about these things.Discuss'

Bruce
In reply to Adam Lincoln:
sorry adam, didnt see your post!
 Tom Briggs 09 Feb 2004
In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA:

Word on the Net is that Dunning has also repeated it.

As an aside, Andy Brown repeated Careless Torque on Sunday. 4th or 5th ascent?
 Adam Lincoln 09 Feb 2004
In reply to Tom, UKC News Editor:

Pitty he top roped it! Man of his ability...

Effort though!
 cubanallstar 09 Feb 2004
In reply to Tom, UKC News Editor: Yeah sd did it early jan but used a diff sequence grading it V14 8b+ Dont know about repeats on careless torque heard ben bransby did it 3-4 weeks ago but not sure ??
 cubanallstar 09 Feb 2004
In reply to BAM: and get back to work u! wat do those fins pay u all that money for?!
slab slap 09 Feb 2004
just out of interest, how many repeats has dreamtime had now??

i just tried looking on 8a.nu but couldn't find the list of hardest boulder problems?
johncoxmysteriously1 09 Feb 2004
In reply to Tom, UKC News Editor:

3rd, surely? But if he toproped it he didn't do it at all, or is Adam just saying it wasn't ground-up?
OP Michael Ryan 09 Feb 2004
In reply to johncoxmysteriously1:
> (In reply to Tom, UKC News Editor)
>
> 3rd, surely? But if he toproped it he didn't do it at all, or is Adam just saying it wasn't ground-up?

Headpointed it maybe...you know John, that great English tradition of top roping then lead/solo.

johncoxmysteriously1 09 Feb 2004
In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA:

Quite.
slab slap 09 Feb 2004
In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA: i thought that at least 5 people had done it??

1: nicole, 2:zagler, 3:sharma, 4:graham, 5: someone i can't remember name of!

no idea in what order either apart from 1st & 2nd?
Carnage 09 Feb 2004
In reply to slab slap: I think Fred Rouhling did it as well.
Peter Walker 09 Feb 2004
In reply to slab slap: Christian Core and Thomas Willenberg. Don't think Rouhling has.
 Tom Briggs 09 Feb 2004
In reply to johncoxmysteriously1:

Andy top roped it a long time ago (10 years?), so it wasn't a ground up ascent. He soloed it on Sunday.
slab slap 09 Feb 2004
In reply to Peter Walker: don't suppose you know the link on 8a.nu? i couln't find it

that means there's maybe six people who've done it?

Peter Walker 09 Feb 2004
In reply to slab slap: Eight, with Steve Dunning and Malcolm Smith.
slab slap 09 Feb 2004
In reply to Peter Walker: blimey! thats alot of repeats. i'd be interested to compare the amount of repeats of that to some of the 8b/8b+'s in font.
simon cox 09 Feb 2004
In reply to johncoxmysteriously1:

When Andy did it Careless (which seems to me to be morpho - height dependent) it certainly wasn't on a top rope, he only had one spotter, who got me to help with the spotting - and shock horror he fell off right at the top - fortunately the mats did the job. Later on whilst not standing too close I saw Andy finish the job off, well done indeed.
 Adam Lincoln 09 Feb 2004
Yes, not ground up. Thats what i meant
Carnage 09 Feb 2004
In reply to slab slap: Yeah. I don't Trip Hop (8c) in Font has had anywhere near as much exposure or any repeats.

slab slap 09 Feb 2004
In reply to Carnage: i haven't been keeping up with the news scene for a few months, who did that?
Carnage 09 Feb 2004
In reply to slab slap: Sebastian Frigault. Its an extention into the already accepted (and little repeated) 8b+ Hip-Hop assis.
Anonymous 09 Feb 2004
In reply to Tom, UKC News Editor:
> (In reply to johncoxmysteriously1)
>
> Andy top roped it a long time ago (10 years?), so it wasn't a ground up ascent. He soloed it on Sunday.

he also toproped it a fortnight ago didn't he?

 Adam Lincoln 09 Feb 2004
In reply to Anonymous:

Thats what i thought... But hey hum

Anyone know who it was who did the Ace this weekend?
 cubanallstar 09 Feb 2004
In reply to Carnage:

8C Dreamtime Cresciano Switzerland Frederic Nicole 8 ascends
8C New base line Magic Wood Switzerland Bernd Zangerl 3 ascends
8C Black eagle SD Rocklands South Africa Frederic Nicole 1 ascends
8C Trip hop Fontainebleau France Sebastien Frigault 1 ascends
8C Transdendenz Sachsen Germany Thomas Willenberg 1 ascends
8C Walk away sd Fairy steps United Kingdom John Gaskins 1 ascends
8C Banshousha Ogawayama Crystal Slab Japan Tokio Muroi 1 ascends
8C Gossip DEU: Frankenjura Germany Markus Bock 1 ascends
8C Amazonia Fontainebleau France Francis Hélias 1 ascends
8C l'anarchiste St Anne France Philip Moser 1 ascends
8C Viva la evolution Flirsch Austria Bernd Zangerl 1 ascends
8C Extradition Coire Lagan United Kingdom Si O'Conor 1 ascends
8C Byaku-dou Hourai No repeats 1 ascends
8C Zunami Saalachtal No repeats 1 ascends
8C+ Tonino '78 Mont Sibilini No repeats Mauro Calibani 1 ascends

from 8a.nu
In reply to cubanallstar:
And you have the cheek to tell me to get back to work, I'm about to email this link to your boss to see if he appreciates this information service that he is paying for!
 cubanallstar 09 Feb 2004
In reply to BAM: Im off 2day! whats ur excuse!
Björn 09 Feb 2004
Amazonia is a traverse (~75 moves I think) and shouldn't be included.
 Tom Briggs 09 Feb 2004
In reply to Anonymous:
> (In reply to Tom, UKC News Editor)
> [...]
>
> he also toproped it a fortnight ago didn't he?

Oh god I don't know, just bumped into him at burbage. Maybe he said he first tried it 10 years ago.

 Fiend 09 Feb 2004
In reply to cubanallstar:

That's a lot of 8cs, given that, according to Malc, they don't exist (including Dreamtime - that point seems to be not triggered the discussion it should have!).

Good for him though, about time really.
rumormonger? 09 Feb 2004
In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA:

Has Steve Dunning done Dreamtime or not? The rumor went around the web that he had, but it was on 8a.nu that he had NOT done it.
Simon Panton 10 Feb 2004
In reply to rumormonger?: Which part of 8a.nu are you reading, and why are you posting anonymously?

Steve did it on 28th December.

 tony 10 Feb 2004
In reply to Fiend:
> (In reply to cubanallstar)
>
> That's a lot of 8cs, given that, according to Malc, they don't exist (including Dreamtime - that point seems to be not triggered the discussion it should have!).
>
Over on PlanetFear, Malc is saying that he didn't confirm the 8c grade, and that he gives it 8b+.
Malcolm Smith 10 Feb 2004
In reply to tony:Could I just straighten this out.I never once confirmed Dreamtime as 8c,it may well be 8b+ and I still hold the same views on grading
 Graham Taylor 10 Feb 2004
In reply to Malcolm Smith:
Fair enough.
Well done anyhow
tim stubley 10 Feb 2004
In reply to Malcolm Smith: indeed, excellent work. any plans for more big repeats in the near future?
In reply to tim stubley:
Well done Malcolm. When are you going to the States to repeat Jim Holloway's hardest and put his ascents in perspective?
 Tom Briggs 10 Feb 2004
In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA:

Not that anyone would have noticed, but the news report has been removed at the request of the various people mentioned in it.

tim stubley 10 Feb 2004
In reply to Tom, UKC News Editor: but the smartboys and planetfear articles still remain on their respective sites?
Johners 10 Feb 2004
In reply to Graham Taylor: Nice one Graham . Are you now a third official and what do you think of video referees ? you know that would stop the cheats top roping and THEN soloing highball 8a+ bloody poor eh . Or is it 8b or c or bollocks ye hah abort abort it's a long way to Tipperary life is a cabaret old chum...........beam me up the nineties were bad but you lot never even found the plot ........ over....................beep................beep..............beep..............beep...........................................................------------------------------------
 tony 11 Feb 2004
In reply to tim stubley:

well the planetfear one appears to have gone, and there's a post on ScottishClimbs.com to the effect that the previous reports were incorrect. The plot thickens.....
 Graham Taylor 11 Feb 2004
In reply to Johners:
Whats your problem? Not loved as a child?
tim stubley 11 Feb 2004
In reply to tony: the smartboys one, which i think is the original is still up. hmmm, you'd think if you'd just repeated tyhe problem that is meant to be the benchmark 8c, you'd want people to know!
paully j 11 Feb 2004
In reply to Danno:

You might not be.....

in which case, put a sock in it
Paullyj 11 Feb 2004
In reply to johncoxmysteriously1:

John Dunne made the second ascent of CT

so its 4 or 5 ascents
splinter 11 Feb 2004
In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA:Lets back onto the subject of Dreamtime.
Steve Dunning made the first UK ascent not Malcolm.
Its also worth pointing out the fact that on a world scale this is an old problem,and one that Sharma spanked.
I think Steve should be praised for his ascent in the same light Malcolm has been.
Quite impressive that Steve stills put a harness on as well as bouldering.
OP Michael Ryan 11 Feb 2004
In reply to splinter:
> (In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA)Lets back onto the subject of Dreamtime.
> Steve Dunning made the first UK ascent not Malcolm.


Yes I believe so....why hasn't he got mo props for it?
Johners 11 Feb 2004
In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA: Your all armchair pole smokers whingers who can't, the only way you can get any where near these climbs is via your pathetic drivel . Cut the shite and get out and do a bit .
richard bradley @ work 11 Feb 2004
In reply to Johners: That's me to a tee!
Splinter 11 Feb 2004
In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA: How much better are Sharma and Graham compared to Malcolm Smith do you think?
Kurt 11 Feb 2004
In reply to Splinter: How much better at WHAT exactly?
Splinter 11 Feb 2004
In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA:Bouldering
OP Michael Ryan 11 Feb 2004
In reply to Splinter:

no idea...they've all done Dreamtime.....so can all climb font 8b+
Trevor Nagler 11 Feb 2004
In reply to Splinter:
> (In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA) How much better are Sharma and Graham compared to Malcolm Smith do you think?


They aren't any better!

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