UKC

Stepping stone grit HS/VS

New Topic
Please Register as a New User in order to reply to this topic.
 nickg_oxford 12 May 2022

Hi all

i’m working my way back through the grades after a lay-off, and wonder if there are any recommendations for nice HS and VS routes in the Eastern Grit to work towards/on? 
thanks all

nick

 Roger Martin 12 May 2022
In reply to nickg_oxford:

Not in the East but Damascus Crack at the Roaches is a great option. Very well protected and my fist HS back after a long layoff. 

1
 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator  UKC Supporter 12 May 2022
In reply to nickg_oxford:

Stanage Pop - Right-hand Trinity, Christmas Crack, Inverted V, Central Trinity in that order - job sorted,

Chris

Post edited at 20:17
In reply to Chris Craggs:

Personally I'd give Inverted V a miss, not sure the pleasures of the top half are worth the polished nastiness of the first bit.

But spot on with the Trinity routes.

Other Stanage routes at that level; Paradise Wall (HS 4b) followed by Pegasus Wall (VS 4c)Crack and Corner (S 4b) (what was I saying about polish 😁) followed by Heather Wall (VS 4c)

At Froggatt; Heather Wall (HVD 3b)Sunset Crack (HS 4b)Green Gut (HS 4a)Allen's Slab (S 4a), Trapeze Direct (VS 4c), one of the Janker's routes and finish it off with a summit Chapman's Crack (VS 4c)

 PaulJepson 12 May 2022
In reply to nickg_oxford:

At Stanage, Manchester Buttress (HS 4b) is a tough little HS. Martello Buttress (VS 4c) and Right Twin Crack (VS 4c) both on the soft side of VS.

Elliott's Buttress Direct (HS 4b) at Gardoms is great and is much the same difficulty as Martello Buttress, so I'd recommend that as well.

Mississippi Buttress Direct (VS 4c) is a good one to aim for, as it is sustained-easy-vs. Really good climb. No particularly hard moves (I couldn't tell you where a 4c move was) but every move is vs.

 Offwidth 13 May 2022
In reply to nickg_oxford:

Straight Crack on Stanage should be top of your list as the easiest multi-starred VS on Eastern grit (easier than something like Manchester Buttress at HS). RHRHBD next door  is brilliant and a real soft touch HS for those with sensible rope work and some biggish pro.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/stanage_popular-104/robin_hoods_right-hand_buttress_direct-10323

I'm genuinely mystified by the grade voting on this:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/stanage_popular-104/straight_crack-10325

I'd add that Zagrette on the same buttress is an underrated HS. Bishop's Route, S, is great (but a tad over-starred in Rockfax) and Zig-Zag Flake Crack is tamed by modern huge cams (maybe HS with them but a scary VS without).

Inverted V, a soft VS is on the same buttress...a bit marmite...I find the bottom polish OK but others don't. The safe layback/jam crux above is technically tricky but the exit is pleasant (so much so the left and direct exits are worth a look as they keep up the fun at the grade and make it a solid VS).

Post edited at 08:59
 Andypeak 13 May 2022
In reply to Offwidth:

The start of straight crack is quite a challenge, I found it one of the harder VS routes I've done recently. 

 Offwidth 13 May 2022
In reply to Andypeak:

Yep it's a couple of bomber overhead protected proper 4b moves. That's HS like Manchester Buttress. Did you climb the crack or the arete?

1
In reply to nickg_oxford:

High Neb Buttress (VS 4c) and Tango Buttress (HS 5a) if you fancy seeing how your headgame is doing

 Andypeak 13 May 2022
In reply to Offwidth:

Got in the bomber gear overhead but found the actual traverse moves really quite stiff. Certainly harder than 4b. The rest of the route was steady. 

In reply to nickg_oxford:

Apple Arete at Gardoms is a very soft touch at VS in my opinion. Great route and very photogenic too. I reckon the VDiff crack at the start is the hardest bit of the whole route. 

In reply to raussmf:

Easiest way up this buttress (IMO) is to do the start of this and the mid bit of High Neb Buttress Variations (VS 5a) which is to the left and slightly easier than the mid bit of the normal route.

Or "reverse" the above for a harder way up - the start is quite tricky for VS.

In reply to nickg_oxford: Birchen Edge could be worth a look if you haven’t already done. It always feels very approachable to me, particularly on a sunny day and it has a couple of good HS (e.g. Sail Buttress) to warm up on, before getting stuck in to several good and do-able VS such as Porthole Direct, the Crow’s Nest and Nelson’s Nemesis. Topsail is also a very famous VS at Birchen, if only a one move wonder. Most of the routes are fairly short, but not lacking in quality. Enjoy your journey back into the game!

Post edited at 10:53
 Holdtickler 13 May 2022
In reply to nickg_oxford:

Been a long time since I did it so others can correct me if I'm off the mark... Mutiny Crack at Burbage N is a fantastic HS. It is quite steep and may appear intimidating but it's all there and getting up it will give a good confidence boost I think.

In reply to George.D:

Nelson's Nemesis is very HS/VS borderline and very worthwhile so should be right on for the OP.

Topsail used to be HS (IIRC), as well as possible grade drift I think erosion (from cams?) has made this harder, also its difficulty is very height dependent.

Agreed about Birchen as a whole, good place to get a lot of mileage in the S/VS range, relaxed atmosphere, plenty of easier stuff to potter around on as well, lots of the hardest moves nearest the ground.

The main minus (IMO) is how eroded the ground is below the edge, it's possibly one of the best (i.e. worst) examples showing how we as climbers affect the crag environment - it's been like that for several decades so it may at least not be getting any worse - not sure if anything could be done about this but we should at least be aware of (and prepared to accept) the consequences of us choosing to climb.

Edit: If it's been dry for a spell, a much more attractive approach is to park as for the N end of Gardom's and walk across the moor (but that does miss walking past the golf course - is it still there - and wondering whether it's possible to hit a good shot and still have the ball roll back to even further away from the hole 😁)

Post edited at 11:11
In reply to Chris Craggs:

> Stanage Pop - Right-hand Trinity, Christmas Crack, Inverted V, Central Trinity in that order - job sorted,

Funnily enough this is almost exactly what I did when I bumped into you yesterday

I can't argue with any of them either, as I've done them countless times before, yet each time I do them I just think "wow, these are all amazing".

Gritstone at its absolute best...

OP nickg_oxford 13 May 2022
In reply to nickg_oxford:

Gosh thanks all - lots to have a go at and great to get peoples ideas!

 Offwidth 13 May 2022
In reply to Neil Henson:

Apple Arete is a delight and again probably should be HS, but the belay requires care. I'd agree it's a soft touch but disagree with the crux: the ramp left is delicate and commiting onsight. I'd add, traversing across a couple of metres below the normal line makes it a proper VS.

 cragtyke 13 May 2022
In reply to Chris Craggs:

> Stanage Pop - Right-hand Trinity, Christmas Crack, Inverted V, Central Trinity in that order - job sorted,

And don't forget April Crack, which is better than some of those!

In reply to nickg_oxford:

You might find some of the routes at Lawrencefield quite agreeable for your purpose. Three Tree Climb (HS 4b) and Nova (HS 4b) are both good at HS and Limpopo Groove (VS 4b)Tyrone (VS 4c) (didn’t it used to be Tyron?), Gingerbread (VS 4c), are good at VS. If you want something a bit more challenging then Great Harry (VS 4c) and Excalibur (VS 4c) should round off a top day. And the quarried grit often seems a bit less technical if you are inexperienced or just out of practice on grit. 

In reply to nickg_oxford:

Brown's Crack (HS 4b), Bamford is a treat too.

 LakesWinter 14 May 2022
In reply to Rog Wilko:

https://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/rad/view.aspx?id=593

A few routes are currently restricted at Lawrencefield. Just so people are aware.

Post edited at 07:13
 Cake 14 May 2022
In reply to nickg_oxford:

I did Amazon Crack (HS 4b) at the end of Burbage North today and was reminded of how excellent it is. 

I think Brooks' Layback (HS 4b) nearby is pushy for HS - also very good.

Don't be tempted by Obscenity if you're there.

 olddirtydoggy 14 May 2022
In reply to nickg_oxford:

If you're after a venue away from the crowds and not polished then I'd suggest Wharncliffe. The rock is quite geometric rather than slopers with plenty of gear. Himmelswillen (VS 4c) is the classic of the crag with some light laybacks, loads of gear and safe exposure. Tower Face (HS 4b) is another good shout to get going. There are a couple of fantastic severes to get the body loosened up for the main course.

Post edited at 22:20
In reply to cragtyke:

The one time I did April Crack (on the blunt end), I found it utterly awful. It's so shiny and slippery. But then, I was also having a particularly bad off day, so maybe it's not entirely the route's fault?

But it is very slippery.

1
 Offwidth 15 May 2022
In reply to tehmarks:

It's not as slippery as the starts of Inverted V or Crack and Corner! I think April Crack is pretty easy at HS irrespective ...... but we all have good and bad days and climbs that do and don't suit us.

1
 Offwidth 15 May 2022
In reply to olddirtydoggy:

I love Wharncliffe but I think it takes a bit of getting used to at VS. It's a good below that grade as it's mostly well protected with proper holds. Also one of the best winter venues in the Peak but maybe a bit warm on sunny summer days (when its best to go into the woods).

 PaulJepson 15 May 2022
In reply to Offwidth:

It's a bit pushy off the floor, I thought, as you have to get quite high on not-very-secure moves to the first gear. I remember trying and failing for a while to get anything decent in that flared bit. From what I can remember, the other 2 you can protect the start reasonably easily? My ankle isnt the best so I'm usually quite aware of the prang potential of falling from a couple of metres up.

 Offwidth 15 May 2022
In reply to PaulJepson:

I know exactly what you mean: I used to be pretty blase about ground falls from a metre or so up until I got bunions and decided to be more careful. To be fair though climbers used to lots of VD chimneys would be experienced with that and you can't really grade for it.

 Hat Dude 15 May 2022
In reply to steveriley:

> Brown's Crack (HS 4b), Bamford is a treat too.

And if you find the start of Brown's Crack OK then do Quien Sabe as the rest of it isn't any harder

In reply to Offwidth:

Weirdly I thought Inverted V was absolutely fine (and really great) regardless of the polish, and at the time I was reticent to jam because I'd only just come back from snapping my leg into bits and was worried about torqueing it in cracks.

Different styles, different moves, different strengths, different weaknesses and different preferences. It'd be boring if we all thought the same

1
 Offwidth 16 May 2022
In reply to tehmarks:

Absolutely, I'd add different conditions and different fitness, but you can ground that to a large extent by thinking about all of that and hence what experiences feel hard compared to well established grades. Some climbers just don't seem to get that, almost as if the grade IS what THEY felt on the day. I've had completely different experiences on the same route  in close succession...usually because I often top rope on the occasions I climb  something badly onsight (often realising I'd missed something obvious) and equally but more rarely,  when sandbagged and forced into full-on concentration, and then wondering after falling off on tr, how the hell I'd climbed that! Then we have those who are not experienced enough to judge (why every easy Stanage VS ends up mid-grade on votes)  Then some climbers are plain dishonest: some just straight lie, others loudly pronounce on something they obviously don't remember (as they get key details wrong).

I've just been reading the thoughtful Andy Moles article and it reminds me that in the end it's about not losing touch with what is compelling about movement on rock, especially when it comes to the many silly secondary distractions. I log a tiny fraction of my routes and then usually only to point out something I feel is wrong, to help others.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rock_talk/article_the_tale_that_wags_the_log-747414?v=1#x9633803

Post edited at 09:14
 Tom Valentine 16 May 2022
In reply to Rog Wilko:

I wouldn't rule out Millstone either: Lambeth Chimney (HS 4b)The Mall (VS 4c), and Great Slab/Lorica (VS 4c) are OK at the grade and my personal favourite would be Covent Garden (VS 4b) though it's a bit airy.

Not forgetting the excellent Latecomer (HS 4b) at Yarncliffe.


New Topic
Please Register as a New User in order to reply to this topic.
Loading Notifications...