/ Stetind - South Pillar Conditions

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Hi,

Has anyone climbed the South Pillar on the Stetind in Norway this summer? Im currently in Lofoton and planning to head up this week but just seen some pictures from someone who flew over and it looked like there is still a lot off snow.  Nothing in the logbooks yet this year...

We've got summer kit only,  so don't want to gamble a big drive, any info much appreciated.  Thanks!!

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TobyA 07 Jul 2019
In reply to Sandstone Stickman:

Check #stetind on Instagram, lots of pics from recent days. I follow some North Norway guides on insta and saw some pics of a team being guided on it a few days ago wearing vest tops! 

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TobyA 07 Jul 2019
In reply to Sandstone Stickman:

BTW, have you read my bluffer's guide to climbing the South Pillar?  Everything you wanted to know but were afraid to ask 😉  http://lightfromthenorth.blogspot.com/2013/09/stetinds-sydpilaren-south-pillar.html

Post edited at 22:41
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In reply to TobyA:

Great info  will check it out tonight.  Thanks!

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In reply to TobyA:

Thanks for sorting the blog, excellent info,  we did the route yesterday.  The hand drawn diagram stood up well and knowing to avoid the obvious descent path saved a lot of time.

For anyone interested,  there is still a 70m snow patch to cross to access the route.  We roped across on well trodden steps in summer shoes and made the effort to go early before the sun was anywhere near it. 

Amazing route and summit ridge descent!!

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TobyA 11 Jul 2019
In reply to Sandstone Stickman:

Excellent! You'll need to stick some photos up if you got some. It's quite a route isn't it?

It looks from your profile that you're a much better climber than I am, and when I did the route I also wasn't climbing in the UK much and hadn't for a long time, so I'd be interested in what you think the grade was in UK terms? I think the original Rockfax miniguide (not sure if that's still available) gave the headwall pitches 5b. I found them steady, and although I have climbed 5b uk pitches, not many so I was surprised it went as smoothly as it did if it really is that grade.

Although my friend who I've done that routes with and others in northern Norway has suggested that I climb considerably better than normal once I'm north of the Arctic circle! I thought that this we a nice idea but pointed out that its far more likely that I climb better when I do big routes with him. 

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