UKC

TD Gap South side - beta

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 jbb 01 Sep 2021

Hi It's been a while since I was here.

I'm after advice on the South wall of the TD Gap on the Cuillin Ridge. I'll be up there recceing some of the sections of the ridge later this month and want soem info in advance to save faff on the day. What is the line that is usually taken when it is down climbed? (Or for that matter when it is climbed on a N-S traverse - I'm assuming that it would be the same line in either event).

The direct line of the abseil up to the in situ tat wouldn't be the easiest line if my memory is correct. In the past I've climbed a line about a metre to the right which has some good holds but feels a bit harder than VDiff - more like HS I'd have thought.

It looks like there is an easier line in a groove to the left, but I only noticed this once it was too late last time I was there.  

Can anyone shed any light? For that matter, if you have any pics I could look at that would be great.

Thanks.

In reply to jbb:

Maybe get in touch with Adrian Trendall from All Things Cuillin?

 SouthernSteve 02 Sep 2021
In reply to pancakeandchips:

Or Mike Lates as an alternative. 

 jbb 06 Sep 2021

 Cheers for the suggestions guys 

Is Mike Lakes contactable on here do you know?

In reply to jbb:

> Hi It's been a while since I was here.

> I'm after advice on the South wall of the TD Gap on the Cuillin Ridge. I'll be up there recceing some of the sections of the ridge later this month and want soem info in advance to save faff on the day. What is the line that is usually taken when it is down climbed? (Or for that matter when it is climbed on a N-S traverse - I'm assuming that it would be the same line in either event).

> The direct line of the abseil up to the in situ tat wouldn't be the easiest line if my memory is correct.

I downclimbed it and up the other side in late October a few years ago - I remember the line being fairly obvious and direct, though having not done it before I've no idea where the abseil goes. The downclimb was fairly greasy but the climb back out was dry as a bone - though of course conditions may be different for you.

 Kevin Woods 06 Sep 2021
In reply to jbb:

I've soloed up and down it and it might be  the groove slightly left you described that I climbed. I thought it pretty easy, good jugs and edges and fine in trainers. (OK granted that's very subjective) If up-climbing, there is a move slightly right under the top, then finishing straight up on jugs.

If reversing, there is a moment it seems to blank out a few metres down from the top. Then I remembered the hidden jug in on the left (in the groove? Can't remember) that led to more good jugs and edges and the bottom no bother.

No firm recollections but maybe that helps. 

Post edited at 10:30
 jbb 07 Sep 2021
In reply to jbb:

Thanks both , much appreciated. Kevin Woods, I think that kind of makes sense to me and possibly fits with my retrospective idea that it would have been better to be further left  (then moving right to jugs at the top). 

I will bear your words in mind when I return to the gap and see how I get on. 

In all likelihood I will decide to either avoid the gap or to ab in and pitch it out, but its fun to look into the possibilities

 Martin Hore 08 Sep 2021
In reply to jbb:

I may be wrong, but my understanding is that the TD Gap has deteriorated in the last year or so and that many guided parties on the ridge now tend to avoid it by the detour across the upper part of Coir' a' Ghrunnda returning to the ridge by the route up Sgurr Alasdair used on the round of Coire Lagan. Guided parties were using that route when we did the round of Coire Lagan earlier this summer.

Martin

 jbb 08 Sep 2021
In reply to Martin Hore:

Yes I heard that the boulders that form the base of the gap moved - scary! I've been wondering what the current situation with it is.


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