/ The ultimate in beta?

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wilkie14c 08 Jun 2019

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UCf56eTbDw1lx4anP3415xyw

kubaclimbsrocks - climbthrough series is the youtube link doesn’t work

I quite like the simple format and i’m not one that worries about blowing the on sight.

Could this be the shape of things to come?

Post edited at 15:17
4
RBonney 08 Jun 2019
In reply to wilkie14c:

I don't think so. I watched the one of him on Great Western at Almscliff because I've done the route. Half of his cams were over cammed. Sometimes not very far away from a perfect placement. He didn't climb it that well either.

I think if you're trying to give people a walk through guide of how to do a route you need to know it well or at least be extremely comfortable at the grade.

Plus on a route like this there's a few ways of doing it. Who's to say his way is best? 

keith-ratcliffe 08 Jun 2019
In reply to wilkie14c:

This is so far away from what hooked me on climbing - discovering for myself ways of solving the problems that the rock sets. I find it hard to believe that this is the same activity.

Perhaps I am an old git after all..

1
teh_mark 08 Jun 2019
In reply to RBonney:

> Half of his cams were over cammed.

Just curious (and haven't watched it), but...assuming they're not overcammed enough to risk becoming stuck, who cares? An overcammed placement is still secure, and the real world often throws up placements that are less than 100% textbook. 'A bit more contracted than ideal' isn't going to be the first thing that sets me panicking.

ChrisBrooke 08 Jun 2019
In reply to wilkie14c:

I’ve watched a few of his videos. He seems like a very nice chap, enthusiastic, not really setting himself up as an ‘expert’ or elite climber, and just sharing his experiences as a punter, with plenty of beta for anyone who might want it, or who might want to live vicariously through his leads. 

john arran 08 Jun 2019
In reply to teh_mark:

>  'A bit more contracted than ideal' isn't going to be the first thing that sets me panicking.

I'm often intrigued by what people class as overcammed because for me, if it's not in danger of being stuck, it's bordering on perfect. The tighter the fit, the less chance of walking and then becoming less perfect, and seeing as the cam angle is usually identical throughout the expansion range there should be similar holding power.

There are some Metolius cams I've used that have indicator colours to show the 'ideal' range and I find myself invariably looking to seat them in a tighter spot than what it thinks is ideal. And no, I hardly ever get cams stuck!

RBonney 08 Jun 2019
In reply to teh_mark:

True but he often placed an overcammed cam when in reach of a better placement. If I'm watching something for beta I want good beta, not "that'll do beta". 

Besides the poor rope work, less than ideal placements and not climbing it very smoothly doesn't inspire much trust. For me it wasn't a beta video but a "this is how I did it video". 

1
timparkin 09 Jun 2019
In reply to RBonney:

Doesn't it depend on whether the guy is offering beta or just videoing his climbs?

I can't find where he says he's saying he's offering a 'find out the beta' seervice

RBonney 09 Jun 2019
In reply to timparkin:

OP was implying that's what is was for but if the videoer hasn't said that then fair enough. 


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