UKC

Trad in the 80's

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
 mandyglanvill 10 Apr 2022

Does anyone know in the 80's when Geraldine Taylor lead 'Positron' E5 6a, at Gogarth North, and with who?

In reply to mandyglanvill:

I’ll ask her. I know it was definitely pre 1985. 
depends on how often she reads her Facebook 

In reply to mandyglanvill:

Ian Dunn said here in 2007 that she did it in 1984, but doesn't say who she did it with.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/ukc/lucy_ellis_onsights_darkinbad_the_brightdayler_e5_6a-257391

1
In reply to mandyglanvill:

Actually Mandy it was with several points of aid (rests), same as Al on the first ascent, as she hung around to place  lots of runners on the main pitch, when in reality you should just take a deep breath and go. I remember Geraldine telling me at the time, but I can’t remember the date. I still see Geraldine every time I go to Kalymnos. Hope all’s good with you.

 Babika 10 Apr 2022
In reply to mandyglanvill:

It could have been at the Womens International festival in 1984?

I ran into Catherine Destivelle leading at Gogarth in 1984 and I remember GT blocking a narrow clifftop path reading her guidebook while I mere mortal had to stumble across the void to get round her...not very sisterly I thought

Post edited at 23:03
3
In reply to mandyglanvill:

It was on the same day as Jill Lawrence, Rosie Andrews and Catherine Destivelle did Right Wall on the International women’s meet in 1984. Can’t remember who she did it with but he said she took a very long time on the main pitch and had rested on it.

OP mandyglanvill 12 Apr 2022
In reply to Ian Dunn:

Hi Ian

she wasn't on the actual meet, as I was on it. Are you sure of day I thought it was before. I didn't know she rested, are you sure 

Mandy

In reply to mandyglanvill: it was definitely the same day as Jill Rosie and Catherine did Right Wall

Gereldine wasn’t officially on the meet but she was hanging around the Pinnacle Club hut whilst the meet was on can’t remember if she was camping or sleeping in a van / car

I can’t say for sure that she rested as I wasn’t on Gogarth as I was belaying Catherine but I quizzed her belayer and he was quite inexperienced and said she was on the main pitch for hours and laced it with gear so I suspect she sat on some! 
 

2
In reply to Ian Dunn:

It was acceptable in the 80s
It was acceptable at the time

2
 redjerry 14 Apr 2022
In reply to Bulls Crack:

Def saw it a bit in the early 80's, mostly in the peak. Systematic dogging wasn't really a thing, but you'd see people sitting on gear and keeping going rather than yo-yoing. Also see people immediately getting back on the rock after falling and keeping going as a slightly better alternative.
But acceptable?...bollocks. I doubt if most people actually considered that a clean ascent at the time.

 Darkinbad 14 Apr 2022
In reply to redjerry:

Plus yo-yoing the main pitch of Positron is not really an option.

In reply to redjerry:

> But acceptable?...bollocks. I doubt if most people actually considered that a clean ascent at the time.

In all the 40 years I was climbing, from 1967-2007, resting on the gear was regarded as completely unacceptable (by just about everyone). There were quite a few routes where I ended up resting on the gear and then lowered off, but the only one I can remember resting on the gear and then carrying on with is Bachelor's Left Hand at Hen Cloud. So, although I got up it, I definitely don't feel I did an authentic ascent.

Afterthought. I'm probably being unfair to myself when I say 'quite a few routes where I ended up resting on the gear'. I think there were actually very few, possibly as little as 3-4 in my whole climbing career.

Post edited at 04:53
2
In reply to mandyglanvill:

Resting on gear most certainly happened.  The ascent was not subject to disapproval or criticism, although there may have been some light hearted sarcasm and piss taking flying about.  It was simply seen as a failure.

Post edited at 07:40
 Billg 14 Apr 2022
In reply to redjerry:

Jerry,  they're song lyrics......  nice job Bulls Crack.   My dad would probably have known, but sadly I can't ask any more. 

In reply to Bulls Crack:

Resting on gear was seen as a flawed ascent, in the same way that using a point of aid was considered a flawed ascent.

So it would be reported (if newsworthy) as xxxx ascended by yyyy with 2 rests, etc 

 duncan 14 Apr 2022
In reply to Philb1950:

> Actually Mandy it was with several points of aid (rests), same as Al on the first ascent, as she hung around to place  lots of runners on the main pitch, when in reality you should just take a deep breath and go. I remember Geraldine telling me at the time, <edit>

In reply to Ian Dunn:

> I can’t say for sure that she rested as I wasn’t on Gogarth as I was belaying Catherine but I quizzed her belayer and he was quite inexperienced and said she was on the main pitch for hours and laced it with gear so I suspect she sat on some! 

As I'm sure you know, Geraldine's tenacity was legendary and spending hours where others might pump-out in minutes was quite usual for her. Belaying would have infuriated Job. Phil reports she told him directly but it would be good to check again as inferences can sometimes solidify into facts.

In reply to duncan:

> In reply to Ian Dunn:

> As I'm sure you know, Geraldine's tenacity was legendary and spending hours where others might pump-out in minutes was quite usual for her. Belaying would have infuriated Job. Phil reports she told him directly but it would be good to check again as inferences can sometimes solidify into facts.

I belayed Gerry on countless hard routes, and can confirm everything you describe. In all those routes, Jerry never ever rested on gear or fell off. There were however many times when I wished she would😂. Literally montionless for ages like a limpet on tiny holds under vast tiered roofs or techy overhanging walls.

 Dave Cundy 14 Apr 2022
In reply to mandyglanvill:

I remember seeing Geraldine in Keswick one day.  She had the same lycra tights as me (yes, the boys took the piss relentlessly but that thought added a grade to my leading).  The only other person i saw wearing them was Paul Cornforth.  Does anyone wear lycra anymore.......?

1
1

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Loading Notifications...